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Thread: Lotze Power Hacksaw - Clean up
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4th September 2014, 05:16 PM #31
Any of you guys had to cut down long blades to fit your saws?? I'm trying to fit so 18" blades to my 15" saw. Cutting is no issue but u can't put a new hole in the blade. tried grinding the hole, drilling with a masonry drill. All went no where
..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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4th September 2014, 06:44 PM #32
Try a cobalt drill bit.
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4th September 2014, 07:34 PM #33Mechanical Butcher
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Try regrinding the masonry drill with a positive rake, otherwise you're just trying to friction cut a hole.
It worked when I shortened a power hacksaw blade recently.
Sometimes the brazing that holds the tungsten carbide to the drill can get too hot and melt, so go easy.
Jordan
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4th September 2014, 07:41 PM #34
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Yep i'll take it easy on the next one ...Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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6th September 2014, 09:03 PM #35
Spaulder, about the dashpot (the hydraulic cylinder), I guess you probably already got it apart, but I'll just say that mine was pretty hard to get off. It is a press-on fit, and tapping around the rim of the lid slowly gets it off. I put in a piston I made of a piece of Austlon C100 (oil-filled caprolactam nylon, from the local industrial supplier) (about 1/4" length of 28mm dia that I turned to fit the cyinder. I can't remember what else I did to get the dashpot working - some sort of adjustment I guess - I have a vague memory of a perforated metal disc in there that is adjusted somehow to let oil through at a chosen rate - whatever I did, it must have been straightforward because it works just right, I'm no mechanical genius and there was no instruction manual!
Maybe take a pic when you have the dashpot apart, I'd appreciate it as it might refresh my memory.
As to the blade, if you can find this on eBay, it is the right length (fits straight on) and I think the right nr of teeth/inch:
Starrett RS1214-5 12" x 1" (300mm x 25mm) 14T
A new blade will grab on any sharp edge (e.g. angle iron) and then shatter, so cut a pipe or some rod to break it in.
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8th September 2014, 10:32 PM #36SENIOR MEMBER
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I took some photo's of the dashpot today. Hope they help.
I'm hoping by refilling it with oil it'll work.
Ben.
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9th September 2014, 09:07 AM #37
What grade of oil are you planning to use?? I imagine the grade or viscosity will have a stronger effect here than in an engine as in this case it won't heat up from the motor to become more fluid.
..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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9th September 2014, 02:04 PM #38Mechanical Butcher
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It's great to see those photos, Ben.
I've filed them for when the time comes to do mine up.
Jordan
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9th September 2014, 06:40 PM #39SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi,
Not sure what grade of oil, whatever I can find at the time.
I'm glad I took the photo's, it's been a long project and it's going to get longer. I have to head up to Townsville for two months starting in October. No way I'm going to remember where everything goes. I'm hoping to get the base back together this week.
Ben.
ps, I have a lot more photo's on my phone that I haven't posted in you want them.
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9th September 2014, 07:54 PM #40
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11th September 2014, 09:06 PM #41New Member
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Lotze power hacksaw
Hi I too have acquired a trusty lotze unfortunately no motor any idea wat hp and speed they had installed ?Just starting to clean her up apart from motor all complete Thanks in advance Freefall1
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12th September 2014, 09:26 AM #42
Just a few replies I've been meaning to get onto about the Lotze, re: dashpot, motor, and the 'disc-thingy' mentioned sometime ago:
1. Dashpot. Ok, so I just took mine apart to see what I did. See photo below. The original metal piston with holes around it was too loose in the cylinder, so the oil would just bypass the piston and the saw frame would fall very quickly. To fix this, I turned a thin (3mm approx) disc of nylon (I used Austlon 100, but it could be anything nylon e.g. old breadboard I think, after all it is bathed in oil so does'nt need self-lubrication). The diameter is to fit the daspot cylinder, so on mine the nylon disc is 25.35mm dia. Yours will be to suit your own cylinder. The hole in the centre of the disc is drilled larger than the 5/16" (~8mm) spindle it fits over, maybe drilled 10mm, because you want it to self-centre when riding up and down in the cylinder. You'll see in the photo that the oil level is about half full. If you put more in, it will just ooze out through the air hole in the lid (air hole has a small screw in it for adjustment) and make a mess. The oil is nothing special. I can't remember what I used, but I guess it was gearbox oil, because that's what I have around. In action the oil is not doing heavy duty, it's just oozing through the holes around the metal piston, it's not a big deal. To adjust the rate of fall, you adjust the nut below the spring on the spindle to set the spring tension. Mine is set about as loose as it can be (the nut is right at the end of the spindle). I get a nice slow fall of the saw frame, that's what I want.
2. Motor. The motor is 1/4 horsepower 1425 rpm. A McPherson 'Cadet', made by GMF, all of a bygone era. Goes fine. It has a big frame for that low horsepower - the body of the motor is about 6.5 inches diameter. In the photos you'll see the chassis that supports the motor at one end and has a cast-in bearing housing at the other end. Hopefully you have that at least. In getting a new motor, there might be a temptation to go for more power - e.g. to get a 1/2 or 3/4 hp motor, after all with smaller modern motor frames they would probably fit ok. But I would advise against it. The 1/4hp is certainly powerful enough, and if anything goes wrong (like anything eventually unscrewing itself with all the vibration that goes on) it is forgiving. Any extra horsepower might do some big damage. I'm not keen on the flex power cord loosely wending its way through the works - I keep having visions of mounting a switchblock on the heavy cast frame-stand just outside the motor, but hey, it works as-is and I'll probably never do it. But for those who are still to do the big restoration and have the momentum, that would be the go I reckon.
3. Disc-nut under the swivel vise. This photo should be self-explanatory, its just to show where the 'disc thing' goes. That block of wood, well, its a bit embarassing that I haven't made something nicer. The wood is jammed in between the top of the motor and the underside of the bed. It stops the motor bouncing up and down as the saw does its work. Originally I had a nicer wood block in there, I swear your honor, but it fell down behind the motor. I can't fish it out, so I just grabbed the closest damn block of offcut I could find and jammed it in there instead. So it has stayed to this day, out of sight, out of mind.
Ian
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12th September 2014, 08:21 PM #43SENIOR MEMBER
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I have the same motor. Works fine. Not sure about my dashpot, it had no oil in it so I don't know how it goes yet.
I've started to put the base back together, you think it would be easy. Lucky I took photo's.
Cheers Ben.
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18th September 2014, 06:35 PM #44SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi,
Still going. Started to put the base back together. Wish I had of taken more photo's. Getting the casting base (the biggest casting) securely onto the base has got me stumped.
Ben.
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18th September 2014, 07:32 PM #45
Ben, I'm pretty sure that when I put mine back together, I started with the two end stand castings and the bedplate casting, and bolted them together first, before filling the space with the motor chassis and motor. I have a vague memory that you also need to assemble the full superstructure onto the bedplate (crank bearings and saw frame) before dealing with the motor chassis and motor, because there's things you need to reach from underneath I think - but my memory is foggy now. I didn't put the side plates on until right at the end of the whole assembly process. By leaving the motor and side plates until last, I had unimpeded access to the insert and tighten the bolts that hold the bedplate. Maybe you have problems accessing the bolts because the motor and motor chassis are in the way.
Ian
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