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29th September 2014, 03:40 PM #1Cba
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About a low cost Tailstock Turret...
Tailstock repetition work. Need to center-drill, drill, countersink and tap 10 shaft ends. Do I swap the 4 tools for each shaft, or am I better off swapping the 10 workpieces for each tool? Sounds familiar? Everytime this happens, I am remembered that I should one day maybe make a tailstock turret.
I recently came across a reasonably priced tailstock turret on American eBay. Actually, it was advertised as "Drill-Tap Fixture", and it came with an MT4 arbor, that is probably why nobody bid on it. Not much to loose I thought, worst case I may use the parts to make my own. I snapped it up for AU73.50 including the postage via USPS. Took 5 weeks to arrive.
I thought I post some pics, as I am sure many others have over the years contemplated too to buy or make such a turret. Hope this helps decide for or against. At least, it shows what exactly to expect for your money.
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That is how it came
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This the inside of the "revolver". The Chinese just won't toss away an otherwise good casting, just because of some minor flaws .
Fortunately this is, as bad as it looks, not affecting its position accuracy.
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Both my lathes have MT2 tailstocks. So the first thing is to get rid of that MT4 arbor and make a new one.
Next thing I find out, is that the bores in the revolver are completely off the spindle axis. This was not so before I removed the MT4 arbor. At the factory, they correctly bore the revolver only after assembly. But in this case, the small taper at the face of the MT4 arbor was bent. What do I do now? Only way seems to either make a new revolver, or bore new larger holes into the revolver. I go for the latter.
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It is very soft cast iron. Made from the famous recycled soup cans . I will now have to make my own toolholders to suit my new bore diameter. But that is fine.
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This is the hardened tapered indexer
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The soft grubscrews have been replaced
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There was an instruction leaflet in the wooden box, too
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29th September 2014, 04:31 PM #2Senior Member
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Cba,
It looks like the Chinese still know how to get every last bit of metal out of the pot into a job.Good to see that you were able to recover the the turret as they sure do look like they would save you a lot of time,bending that arbour must have taken a bit of effort as well.
Bob
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29th September 2014, 07:48 PM #3.
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- Nov 2008
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- Perth WA
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Chris,
I've often wished I had a tailstock mounted turret such as yours. I've toyed with the idea of a home madey but have gotten bogged down with the indexing mechanism which I would think is the key to the turret's accuracy. I have a Hercus capstan attachment. Setting its spring loaded gibbed indexing finger is a real prick of a thing ( I think Hercus revised the design for the 260 version, mine's a 9 ) Too much tightness on the gib causes sticking of the finger and no indexing. Too loose and the turret moves. Less than a whisker between the two. How well does the indexer work on yours and could you imagine any improvement? Tapered pin and seat?
Bob.
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29th September 2014, 08:27 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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- Australia east coast
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30th September 2014, 12:53 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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- May 2011
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- Murray Bridge SA
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MEW had one in a couple of years ago, can find it if anyone is interested in making it. Was going to make one for my wood lathe but the metal one died, still waiting on a motor for it
Kryn
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30th September 2014, 08:41 AM #6Cba
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Bob, this tapered pin indexer does actually a very accurate job. I would say it is the most positive feature of this design. It does at times require strong finger force on its actuator lever to release the revolver. Especially if not used for a while. I guess that is the downside of using a tapered pin. But engagement is always crisp and positive, just rotate the revolver until it "clicks in". That said, such a turret is I think not intended for highest precision drilling, but for occasional repetition work where average tolerances will do. I believe the indexing itself can repeat to 1/100 mm, but to work there is also some play needed in the revolver mount, probably another 1-2/100mm. Then there is the toolholder that goes into the revolver, add another 1/100mm. At the end, its a repetition accuracy of about 1/20mm all up. Good enough to work reliably to say +/-0.1mm, which certainly represents the vast majority of tasks done from the tailstock.
I have wondered why they use such a small taper to attach the head to the arbor. It is almost a JT1, but not exactly, I tried a JT1 I has and its just a tad too small. That is probably the weakest point in this design. I used a "blank" MT2 arbor (some years ago Chronos had an irresistible special and I bought half a dozen MT2 and 3 blanks each for exactly such projects).
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31st December 2014, 09:32 PM #7Senior Member
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- Jan 2011
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- shep Victoria
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- 97
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L H Sparey in his book the Amateur's Lathe has a Tail Stock Turret which is quite a easy one to make ,and I made mine back in the early 80s , quite a strait forward job to do, I had only a lathe and milling attachment so with a mill it would be much better to do, there is a drawing in the book but it is on the small size but will put it up if any one want it.
Eddie.
I forgot to mention this has a 3 mt for the tail stock.
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13th January 2015, 07:49 AM #8New Member
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- Jan 2015
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- UK Hertfordshire
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- 1
For anyone still considering making a tailstock turret then my three way turret may be worth considering. It can be found here-http://www.homews.co.uk/page413.html
The page describes the turret but then provides a link to another website for whom I initially provided the article. The article contains the drawings and an explanation of the manufacturing methods.
As this is primarily a woodworking forum some may like to look at my cabinet making pages. http://www.homews.co.uk/page14.html
If unaware of my website, then the book style index for the metalworking pages (now about 550) would be a good place to start. http://www.homews.co.uk/page463.html
Harold Hall
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