Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 76 to 90 of 97
-
31st July 2013, 11:37 PM #76SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2,340
Yes it's been said already, apparently though you weren't the only one to miss it.
The reason for me bashing my head against a brick wall in frustration is because there's "accurate" and there's "accurate" if you get my meaning? For ultimate hole accuracy you'd probably lap the hole, yet we dont all race around lapping every hole, so less accurate required? Bore or ream it. Yet we don't ream every hole, so less accurate required? Drill it by slowly opening up the hole to finish with a fresh drill ( ie poor mans reaming). Less accurate, drill it with a new drill. Less accurate, an accurate hand sharpened drill will be fine. And so it goes on. There is no definitive answer as it will be determined by the question. For most "questions" the hole doesn't need to be especially accurate. However the whole point is to illustrate that a well sharpened twist drill CAN produce quite accurate holes, to the extent that personally, for the work I do, I very VERY rarely ever need to ream a hole. In fact I can honestly say the reason I would ream is more to do with the finish rather than the size per se (but that's a whole different topic and with the time some seem to have available I'm just not going to open that can of worms ). I was away when this whole thing turned in to a federal case, and I intended to come home, ream a 5 mm hole, then compare different holes drilled on a mill by increasingly poorly sharpened/blunt twist drills to show the results. However as PDW alluded to, I'm not introducing any novel concept here, and the facts of drill point accuracy versus hole accuracy were established more like 100 years ago Peter! I decided I had better things to do with my time, so a handful of holes would need to do. However I trust that answers more questions than it creates confusion, and why it may not be as easy as simply saying "ream it" when an "accurate" hole is required, nor why hand sharpening is in anyway "bad", just that there is a hierarchy of accuracy and its good to know where you're standing on it lest you're either disappointed, kid yourself that you're standing in a different part of it to where you think you are, or give yourself unnecessary work.
Pete
-
31st July 2013 11:37 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
1st August 2013, 04:28 PM #77SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 765
I must say Pete you seem to have an endless capacity to confound me.
On one hand you advocate the use of a drill sharpening machine, yet you admire the skills of hand sharpening and in almost the same breath you say that its too inaccurate.
You compare the results of a new drill to dull drill and a machine sharpened one, The new drill scored well with a tolerance IT9 but both your dull and sharpened one in the same class as my average freehand ground one with a tolerance of IT11.
You rubbish the use of a reamer and then say it use for more precise work. You even go on to say to use a new drill bit in place of a reamer for an intermediate between drilling and reaming but considering the cost of a reamer is about the same as it is for a quality drill, and a reamer will take to an IT7 hole why buy the new drill at all when a new reamer will give a better surface finish and less variance into the bargain? Don't answer that I already know the answer, it's what you have handy which is fine btw just hoping that you might see another way to look at it..
In the MH29 gives the practical tolerance of hole produced by correctly ground twist drills in drilling operations as IT13. Incidentally a normal tap hole only need to be IT12-13. In the small/home shop we can always push the limits of what is practical by application of skill, understanding and time or you could just spend more money. Almost all of us would already have access to a bench grinder a piece of scrap steel and some dull drills but not all of us have more money. Sharpening not necessarily the most exciting time you'll have but you are always going to learn something, hell you can even make your own drills; blacksmiths have been doing it for ages.
As a side note for those that are interested in a more acurate understanding of accuracy and precision I can sugest a very good free resource here http://www.itl.nist.gov/div898/handb...e-Handbook.pdf . It is not light reading however.
-Josh
PS Sorry Grahame and all others my last word on the thread. I Promise.
-
1st August 2013, 06:24 PM #78SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2,340
Josh I am more than happy to discuss difference of opinions with you or anyone else for that matter. Not everyone agrees with each other, it makes the world an interesting place and is a great way to learn about a topic and generally share knowledge. As you know, I can hardly be called a "yes man" and am happy to say what's on my mind, sometimes it means crossing swords, and I'm fine with that, as I'd suggest you are of a similar disposition.
As far as I was concerned the matter was closed and there was nothing more to be gained from re-hashing what I have stated many times. I do however have an exceptionally low tolerance for people who make things up, pretend people have said things, and generally create "straw man arguments" in order to further their own agenda, hence why I find myself compelled to post again.
While it seems you have an extraordinary amount of spare time, I'm afraid I don't. Furthermore, I can only speak for myself, but agree wholeheartedly with Peter, that I, and I think others, are sick and tired of reading about this topic. I have provided clear data that proves what I'd thought was common knowledge; the more accurately ground the drill bit, the more accurate the drilled hole. Hardly a revelation I'd thought. However if you wish to continue to pursue your position that an inaccurately ground bit will drill holes just as accurately as an accurately ground one may I suggest you take the discussion to PM and state your position there and see how you get on. I'd hoped that my comments about using blunt or inaccurately ground drills may help others here, but frankly I'm sick of it. You win, you've got me, you're right.
Pete
-
1st August 2013, 06:45 PM #79GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- sydney
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 3,566
Is there a fish being caught here.
-
2nd August 2013, 02:06 PM #80Pink 10EE owner
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 4,304
Christ bringing out a ban stick was a bit extreme...
Sure if they are abusive or post inappropriate material (maybe they did but I never saw any).... But for a slightly heated difference of opinion, we are all adults here and I am sure we could see everyone's point of view has some merit even if they put it across rather abruptly or come across as "experts".. That is all part of a normal social society as everyone is different and we need to be tolerant of even those whose opinions or posting style we may dislike.... To remove them if their only crime has been to be different or not as good at putting their thoughts into words lessens the forum IMO... it is a fantastic forum here... One of the best I have come across we way we all get along and help one another... A bit more tolerance is in order I think... Habitual trolls are easy to pick out... I would not have considered the recently departed as habitual trolls, strongly opinionated maybe, but not trolls or trouble makers.. At least not what I have seen in this particular section of the forum...
Yes yes I know you do not want to risk the forum being filtered from schools, but I highly doubt a rigorous debate like in this thread would do that... If it would then I guess they also ban what we see happen in our national parliament as well...Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
-
2nd August 2013, 02:29 PM #81
-
2nd August 2013, 02:34 PM #82
I would guess a lot more went down here than we can see now, as it would have been deleted. The same thing happened a few months ago between davej (now labeled a guest) and petef. I watched it all unfold, then a few hours latter it was gone.
On to the op, I mostly sharpen by hand, my old boss was one of Guido's apprentices, and we sharpened everything without jigs.
Someone commented on bits getting easier to sharpen as they get bigger. I find this true up to a point, but when you get to around 16mm I find it very hard to get equal tips.
RC, I see you have changed your 10ee from worn out to pink....does that class as an upgrade or not?1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
-
2nd August 2013, 02:39 PM #83Pink 10EE owner
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 4,304
OK....They need a title "In the sin bin"...
RC, I see you have changed your 10ee from worn out to pink....does that class as an upgrade or not?Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
-
23rd August 2013, 02:56 PM #84SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2,340
G'day Ewan, just for the record, no there was nothing else that isn't still here. Though I doubt this post will last any more than a few micro-seconds, so I hope you're a quick reader!
At the bottom of each post is a "report post" button that will report inappropriate posts to the forum's moderators. There is a post above that I considered inappropriate, no prizes for guessing which one. Rather than respond I went through the "official" channels, held my tongue, and simply reported it to the moderators to deal with. Deal with they did and advised that "I'd been warned" and both of us were therefore banned for a week for my trouble.
I have no control over what others write, but am more than capable of sticking up for myself when idiots abound. However since that's not really in the spirit of this forum I'm more than happy to fend it off to the "moderator" to deal with. However if receiving a banning is the response to somebody else's posting then I want no part of any of it. Hoo-Roo!
Pete
-
23rd August 2013, 08:57 PM #85grandad
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- condong n.s.w.
- Age
- 70
- Posts
- 158
-
24th August 2013, 12:45 AM #86SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 521
-
24th August 2013, 08:20 AM #87Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 3,149
Apologies for being off topic, but -
The mods can't be everywhere. It is more important that individual members
- behave in a respectful manner so these situations don't occur
- support and watch out for each other so that it is clear that derogatorily comments and dis-respectful behaviour have no place here
- draw things to the attention of the moderators when they start getting nasty
There are bound to be times when disagreements happen but differing points of view need to be discussed on their issues and not on the personalities involved. If there are members out there that never fail to push your buttons use the "ignore posts" setting or don't read what they say.
I've reported a few things which the mods have subsequently taken action on without any problems. I think it's like fighting at school though - once the fight starts, it doesn't matter who started it. You're both in trouble.
Michael
-
24th August 2013, 01:23 PM #88SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- Australia east coast
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 1,469
The whole thing degenerated into an overblown and basically pointless argument. People over-reacted to trivia.
And I most certainly *include* the moderators for banning someone for REPORTING a post that they considered inappropriate. That is just pathetic.
Boat design dot net has a *very* effective and strict moderation policy. It uses the same software as this forum but without the sort of arbitrary knee-jerk decision making I see here. On bd.net if you manage to offend enough forum members, your reputation score sinks to the point where you can't start new threads, then eventually you can't post at all. Even if you have a huge rep score, if you break the rules, you're gone. There is ONE moderator for the whole forum because the feedback system works so well.
I'd rather be there than here frankly and if a few of the people I know in real life leave here or get the boot, I'm just staying on bd.net or PM. Having just been spending my time attending a funeral and then helping to sort out the possessions of a very good friend not much older than me, my tolerance for chicken faeces is really, really low ATM.
PDW
-
24th August 2013, 03:28 PM #89Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 57
- Posts
- 122
I hand sharpen drills up to what ever width the grinding wheel is.
Funny thing is, I can sharpen a smaller diameter drill to perform better than some new one out of a packet.
Luckily have a nice drill sharpener at work which can handle 28mm to 75mm.
Generally the holes I drill are for passing screws or bolts through, so a little bit of extra clearence won't hurt.
If you need a hole with a tight tolerance ream it, as you have to allow 0.2 for possibly drilling oversize.
Of course there are other tricks like drilling close to size, than rounding the corners with a 1mm radius on your final size drill to cut neatly to size if required.
Normally use soluble coolant or neat cutting oil for drilling to aid cooling and chip removal.
Find too high a surface speed and feed normally kills the cutting edge, and if you get it right, the drill will last for many holes without re-sharpening.
-
24th August 2013, 03:50 PM #90Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Riddells Creek
- Posts
- 300
Similar Threads
-
Hand-sharpening of drill bits
By KevinB in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 16Last Post: 22nd March 2012, 11:03 AM -
Hand Sharpening Drill Bits
By Grahame Collins in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 46Last Post: 25th July 2011, 12:29 AM -
Sharpening drill bits
By ToothFairy in forum SHARPENINGReplies: 17Last Post: 18th May 2010, 02:04 PM -
Sharpening Drill bits.
By artme in forum SHARPENINGReplies: 18Last Post: 13th June 2009, 10:59 PM -
Sharpening drill bits
By artme in forum GENERAL & SMALL MACHINERYReplies: 4Last Post: 17th February 2008, 09:07 PM