Thread: No luck removing chuck

Interesting thread with loads of good input. I'd go the surgical route but good luck to you with the brute force method... the suspense is killing me

Great thread Mike. We're all learning. I just wanted to add to what I've said before. I have a brother up here who is an outstanding fitter and turner,
a "go to" man for a lot of people. I've often had to go to him with problems such as yours. I usually turn up with some item dripping with WD40 or some other penetrating substance. His words to me are always:

Don't worry about the penetrating oil, it doesn't get far
You need heat to break the oxidised bonds in the thread
You need to start off with low heat, to protect the metal, and try it
Then use stronger and stronger heat the more desperate you get
Tapping on the sides with a hammer can shock-break the bonds
Slow high torque turning is better than shock bashing breaker bars
Things that are put together have to come apart

While all of this is obvious, and has been covered here, it is why I suggested the use of a hair dryer as the original heat source. I was sceptical as well, until after a few minutes the item I was heating started turning red. My brother suggested it because it heats the metal gradually and, in his words. you can set it up and do other things, and just glance at it now and then to look for the colour.

Anyway, good luck with it, in the end you're educating people like me.

Surely you mean a hot air gun, not a hair drier?
My wife's hairdryer makes maybe 120 deg hot air - my hot air gun 1200 ....

You are just not listening. Forget the gear on the spindle. You need to lock up the spindle on the smooth flat surface of teh spindle extension. That is the only place you can get a precision fit and apply extreme tension. With a well degreased surface and powdered rosin it will hold like it is welded.

The bar that you have shown looks weak and flexible and the bolts are sticking out and lever point is sticking out away from the surface , no good.
It needs to be a flat plate with bolts that fit neat and washers under the heads so they will tighten fully down as tight as you can get , tap it around with a hammer as you tighten it so all slap is gone . The solid bar needs to be welded to the plate so that the turning pressure is a close to the plate surface as possible . The collar needs to be packed up to take out any flex in the spindle as you apply force otherwise all you are doing is flexing the spindle downwards and 50% of the force is lost to spring. If you pack up the collar with steel blocks and two steel wedges and weld a tag or strap of steel at the back of each wedge or apply a G clamp across the wedges . Apply some grease to the the wedge surface to aid initial turning . It only needs to move a fraction of a turn to loose the initial grip and it will then turn off with some normal leverage . There is no substitute for rigid support directly under the spindle as close to the unlocking lever as possible. No spring = Maximum turning shock.
.

OK
I thought this thread had died a natural death

But anyway,this is where I am ....

Will get the rest off tomorrow ..too dark out there now .I used a 8" cut off wheel in my SKIL wood saw Some drilling too. its cast iron and ONE PIECE

MIKE

What have you done!!! .
Nice old lump it was too, shame to see it go.

Onwards and upwards, soldier on.

Cheers.

If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.

The bit left should unscrew OK.... soak it overnight with penetrating fluid...

Originally Posted by morrisman

OK
I thought this thread had died a natural death

But anyway,this is where I am ....

Will get the rest off tomorrow ..too dark out there now .I used a 8" cut off wheel in my SKIL wood saw Some drilling too. its cast iron and ONE PIECE

MIKE

Good on you. Sometimes the brutal approach is the way to go. Once it's off, you're in business.

I might have a backplate casting or 2 that'd fit your spindle, depends on the amount of thread engagement. I still have the patterns as well somewhere.

PDW

I guess that is one way to get it off. I was going to suggest that you machine it off, but thought that machining it off might have been too brutal.

Hi Mike,

It looks brutal, but I'd prefer that you destroy that rather than risk damaging something else more expensive with misplaced sledgehammer blows...

Sometimes, you've just got to cut your losses and move on.

Regards
Ray

Ah! I see you have opted for the precision approach . Why did you not just turn it off down to a fraction above the spindle threads , you have the mounting bolt holes as a guide and then just pry the remainder off in three pieces ? What you are doing sounds dangerous to me , wood saws are high speed and cut off blades can jam up and fracture wildly.
I new a guy that cut his arm nearly right off using a large angle grinder in a way it was not ment to be used.

Hi Mike,
Is it all off yet?
What thread is it? Wouldnt be 3.75"(3 3/4" for you old timers ) 6 tpi would it?

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi Mike,
Is it all off yet?
What thread is it? Wouldnt be 3.75"(3 3/4" for you old timers ) 6 tpi would it?

Stuart

Hi Stuart

I was busy today , buying the T&C grinder and moving it ... heavy too .

The spindle thread on the Hendey is rather odd . I've tried measuring it with a 1/2" wide caliper and looking at tpi .... its about 5 tpi . Looks to be 2 and 5/8" diameter . It might be metric even . I will try to confirm .

BTW re: safety , Yes good points . I use heavy long welding gloves and goggles of course . But I will use the welding helmet with the dark visor turned up in future . I've never had a disc shatter but it would be nasty if it happened. I hurt myself years ago arc welding , I was chipping the slag off , and it flew up and hit my eyeball .

here you go Stuart

looks like 5 TPI and 2 3/4" across