Thread: What machine to sharpen a Float?

Dont.......buy the Liogier ones through that FF guy and forget LN......

I would think a tool and cutter grinder could be setup to do it but it would be slow if done manually. You may even be able to but the right shape diamond wheel on a bench grinder and set up a cross slide fence/jig with an indexing finger to fit into the next gullet. But they have always been sharpened with files......for a long long time anyway.

Edit, A wheel like this DIAMOND GRINDING WHEEL - RESIN BOND - 125MM - 45 DEGREE SAUCER STYLE #L104

Hi Brett,

Normal practice is to use a file, floats are tempered back to about the same hardness as saws. The angle is 60 degrees, same as a saw file.

In the one you've partially sharpened it looks to me like you've angled the file backwards and changed the rake?

Derek's website has a good writeup on how to sharpen a float. The Lie Nielsen Face Joinery Float - Reviewed

The float's I've made in the past always warp when heat treated, because of the difference in surface area between top and bottom, and always need filing before use.

Once sharpened they stay sharp for a long time.

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Brett,

Normal practice is to use a file, floats are tempered back to about the same hardness as saws. The angle is 60 degrees, same as a saw file.

In the one you've partially sharpened it looks to me like you've angled the file backwards and changed the rake?

Derek's website has a good writeup on how to sharpen a float. The Lie Nielsen Face Joinery Float - Reviewed

The float's I've made in the past always warp when heat treated, because of the difference in surface area between top and bottom, and always need filing before use.

Once sharpened they stay sharp for a long time.

Regards
Ray

Hi Ray, no I didn't change the angle (or didn't try to at least). I found that I had to roll the file just a little to contact the other face (on all of the faces), hence why I suggested the angle was about 65 deg.

Interesting about the surface area, I can see how that would work. If there is a slight bow in one spot, can that be corrected, or is it too late?

Cheers
Brett

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Brett,

Normal practice is to use a file, floats are tempered back to about the same hardness as saws. The angle is 60 degrees, same as a saw file.

In the one you've partially sharpened it looks to me like you've angled the file backwards and changed the rake?

I t looks like that to me as well. The files should be firmly in the groove until they seat themselves and allow it to form the edges without rolling the file.

Hmmm, just thinking about that, and it must be one of two things:
if the angle in the gullet is more than 60 deg, then maybe I should have used a larger width file that didn't go so far into the gullet (because the 150mm ES tapered file that I used has quite fine edges). A file with a broader face, but more importantly broader edges would not go in so far. Don't know if this angle can be corrected at milling stage, if it is incorrect.
OR
I'm just crap at filing