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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    nowra
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    Default Machinsts chest value

    What would you pay for a machinists tool chest with 120 swiss files and measuring tools
    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

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  3. #2
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    Nov 2008
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    Perth WA
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    Default

    Come on Andre, you need to be a touch more more specific!

    Measuring tools? Chinese and sub continental landfill or Euro exotica? You know the drill, we need to see photos or at least provide a detailed description.

    BT

  4. #3
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    Mar 2008
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    nowra
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    Default

    Here is the only photo I have and that description is all I have been given so far.

    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Canley Heights, Sydney
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    67
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    302

    Default

    As little as possible, make an offer and go from there.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    nowra
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    Default

    thanks i a not sure what a fair offer would be i was thinking $200
    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
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    2,500

    Default box

    hi

    I bought a similar box of stuff: 5 sets of thread gauges and various V blocks and dividers and heaps of other stuff in it..for $100. It also had a set of British made chassis hole punches . And parallels too. It was a bargain

    MIKE

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
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    58
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    2,557

    Default

    It's hardly fair of the seller to expect you to make an offer if you haven't seen the contents. You would expect to find some micrometers, indicators and other precision stuff, but without knowing, a low price is all he can expect. Try $150. If he wants more tell him you want to see. The box on its own is actually pretty cool and looks in good nick, so hopefully the contents are too. One thing to consider - the measuring gear may all be imperial. If you're happy with that, fine, but if not it's not much good to you. (Personally I've banned imperial measuring gear from my shed.)

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Mandurah WA
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    62
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    1,566

    Default

    Hey Welder,

    Have a look at whats there, and how much of it you would use, think about how much you would sell it for, and then offer them 2/3 of that, I would think that that was fair.
    The price that you would Sell for is never what you would Buy for.

    Good Luck.

    HazzaB
    It's Hard to Kick Goals, When the Ba^$%##ds Keep moving the Goal Posts.


    Check out my Website www.harrybutlerdesigns.com.au

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    nowra
    Posts
    1,361

    Default

    Thanks everyone i am having a look tomorrow the measuring stuff is probably imperial and i don't buy imperial but i do want an imperial vernier. I also found out out the files are riffler and he is now asking $250 for it.

    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Dural NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    1,120

    Default Measuring

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    It's hardly fair of the seller to expect you to make an offer if you haven't seen the contents. You would expect to find some micrometers, indicators and other precision stuff, but without knowing, a low price is all he can expect. Try $150. If he wants more tell him you want to see. The box on its own is actually pretty cool and looks in good nick, so hopefully the contents are too. One thing to consider - the measuring gear may all be imperial. If you're happy with that, fine, but if not it's not much good to you. (Personally I've banned imperial measuring gear from my shed.)
    Bryan
    I have made a few attempts to go metric, but it must be an age thing, I find I use longer measurements often in metric like 1500mm long is about 5ft.
    However if I am working in small measurements like with a micrometer when machining or grinding to dimension I will always think & use imperial.
    My lathe is imperial..... easy
    My mill is metric..... not so easy. Always converting to imperial
    When other blokes are talking.... say 0.5mm I immediately think thats approx 0.020" or 20 thou.Which has immediate meaning to me.
    To remove .004" is a figure I can picture, but 0.01mm does not register in the head.
    So I tend to cross over, & cannot see that changing,probably because I have been with imperial so long.
    Then there are metric threads & imperial threads so my taps & dies are duplicated.
    Its all interesting !
    regards
    Bruce

  12. #11
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    Jul 2003
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    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
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    Default

    There are some wine coloured boxes in there: Either Starrett or Lufkin I'd reckon. The box looks like cedar, which tells me its a local version of chests sold in the US under the Gerstner and Union brands (and I'm sure others too).

    Such chests alone go for about $250 + in the US. If the contents are of the same calibre as the chest I'd be expecting good things. On the other hand, the seller should be able to provide you with good photos of the contents of each drawer.

    GQ
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Abratool View Post
    When other blokes are talking.... say 0.5mm I immediately think thats approx 0.020" or 20 thou.Which has immediate meaning to me.
    To remove .004" is a figure I can picture, but 0.01mm does not register in the head.
    Bruce
    Same here Bruce, exactly the same. If was taking a 10 thou cut I know what the swarf should look like yet I have no idea what any metric depth of cut should look like.
    A bit set in the old ways.

    Phil

  14. #13
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    Mar 2011
    Location
    Dural NSW
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    Default Measuring

    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Same here Bruce, exactly the same. If was taking a 10 thou cut I know what the swarf should look like yet I have no idea what any metric depth of cut should look like.
    A bit set in the old ways.

    Phil
    Phil
    Glad to hear that someone else out there is set in the old ways.
    It still works for me.
    regards
    Bruce

  15. #14
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    Jun 2006
    Location
    Armidale
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    59
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    527

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Same here Bruce, exactly the same. If was taking a 10 thou cut I know what the swarf should look like yet I have no idea what any metric depth of cut should look like.
    A bit set in the old ways.

    Phil
    Curious the difference. When a measurement is stated on a drawing like "13/64" I have absolutely no idea how big that is and have to look it up in mm to be able to visualise it. Each to their own.
    Terry B
    Armidale

    The most ineffective workers will be systematically moved to the place where they can do the least damage - management.
    --The Dilbert Principle

  16. #15
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    Jul 2003
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    Default

    I am fortunate enough to have both schemes, but I bought most of my metric stuff cheap from US sellers who can't get good prices for it. My inch stuff came from here for the same reason.

    At work I use nautical miles for distance, kilometres or statute miles for visibility, feet or metres altitude, Inches of mercury, psi and hPa for pressure. Knots for wind speed and m/s also. Oh yeah, degrees F you know where.

    In the shop I find in my limited experience that imperial seems better suited to the world of precision (Since the handy increments are smaller than the metric equivalents). Larger than 1.0" though and I instantly switch to metric. Or nautical.
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

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