Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 22 of 22

Thread: Maho MH700 Mill

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Syd
    Posts
    232

    Default M

    Dunno about the mysterious knob, but imagine it will become evident very quickly once powered up. The little knurled thumbwheel to the left on the vernier, looks interesting, a stop? I definitely wouldn't worry about the character marks on the table.

    There was an authentic looking kiwi 037 replica over here that was the usual monte carlo chop - unfortunately destroyed when a mate's workshop burnt down about 15 years back. More interesting, a genuine one is about too, which I'd imagine you'd know about, I see the guy who owns it occasionally when he's exercising his Indycar. If Maho made a spiral milling accessory, a nice exercise would be the supercharger.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine
    Posts
    144

    Default So Close....

    After a year and a half with the mill in storage I recently moved it to my Fathers new workshop, when I had a 4 ton forklift on site for the DSG. This means i will be able to use it until I build my own workshop. Last night I went out to the workshop with the goal of making some chips....

    image.jpg
    First job was to top up the gear box with some 46 weight Hydraulic oil. After a couple of minor issues with the sight glass it was topped up and ready to go...


    Second job was to finish off a BT40 adaptor stud. The Maho came with what looks like standard adaptor/pull studs. these adaptors screw into the top of NT40 tooling leaving 20mm of M16 treads for the draw bar to pull on. The benefit of this system is that you can use virtually any type of 40 taper tooling with its own addaptor, with out having to change over the captive draw bar. At this stage I have a mishmash of metric and imperial NT40, BT40 and I just picked up a DIN 69871 ER32 chuck today.



    The mill came with 4 studs, 2 factory imperial and 2 shop made metric adaptors. The factory studs have a Alan key hex broached in to one end so they can be easily tightened. To replicate this I have used 16mm grub screws screwed from each end into my shop made adaptor.
    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
    So with my new adaptor mounted to the BT40 ER32 chuck, I was ready to go........Just need to plug the mill in. Grab the lead walk over to the 3 phase power point too plug it in......NOT. The out let is an old style one with a flat on the bottom not square pin......So close...... Now I have another job added to the list...

    Cheers

    Piers

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Piers037 View Post
    The out let is an old style one with a flat on the bottom not square pin......So close.....
    Is it "old style" just a different amp rating?
    Still it doesn't make much difference, either way no chips were made today. But a little closer is always a good thing.

    Stuart

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    69
    Posts
    5,634

    Default

    I like the simple adaptor Piers. A lot easier than making drawbars. I remember a post on the Schaublin Yahoo site where one of the blokes had made a drawbar with interchangeable threaded ends. Seemed like a neat idea if you didn't need to change differently threaded arbors too often.

    BT

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine
    Posts
    144

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Is it "old style" just a different amp rating?
    Stuart
    Hi Stuart, I had guessed it was "old style" as it is a metal frame and I had not come across one like this before. Thanks for clearing that up. Learn something new every day .

    Cheers

    Piers

  7. #21
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine
    Posts
    144

    Default We Have Power

    Got a sparky mate to check out the plug & socket. Turns out that the 20amp outlet is only configured as a 4 pin plug. The center neutral pin hole is only 10mm deep and then it is blanked off. Thus the reason that the plug would not go all the way on......Had nothing to do with the flat as I had assumed...

    Simple fix was to remove the center pin from the plug and terminate the wire. The neutral is not required for 3 phase and no single phase power is used on the mill.

    Fired up the mill and both motors are working fine. Ran out of time last night to make some chips as I discovered that the vertical head gearbox has it's own separate oil supply which I need to check the level on. Hopping to make it out to the shed tonight....

    Cheers

    Piers

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine
    Posts
    144

    Default Wow

    Well I finally got a chance to run the "new" mill.


    After owning a Chinese mill drill for years, the combination of German Engineering, 2 tons of cast iorn, power feeds and carbide tooling is VERY NICE


    First job on the list is to make some 16mm tee slot nuts. I needed some 25x25mm cold rolled but the only stock on hand was 25x50. No problem, I can rip it down....Set the the speeds and feeds as recommend, dial in a 3mm DOC with a 60mm face mill and watch the blue chips fly......or should I say shrapnel, one nasty piece stuck to my neck


    Even more impressive was a solid carbide end mill I tried. When I bought the Chipmaster tracer attachment from Gary at Eccentric Engineering, he said that now
    I had a nice rigid mill I should have a go with some solid carbide end mills. He highly recommends Mari tools and gave me a used 3/8 end mill that had past its end milling life span but " is still really good for side milling, give it a try"


    With my mill I can not run it as fast as it is designed for, so I dialled in the max of 1600rpm set the feed rate and took a 15mm deep side cut with 2mm radial DOC, climb cutting. The result, a nice big pile of yellow/blue chips on the vice and a super smooth surface finish.

    Very happy with the mill and can't wait to test it out further.


    Cheers


    Piers
    Attached Images Attached Images

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. combination circular saw blade for saw mill (lucas mill)
    By Tim Creeper in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 26th April 2013, 12:48 PM
  2. Selecting a small Mill / Mill/Drill
    By Wombat200 in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 15th March 2012, 10:58 PM
  3. Arboga EM825 mill vs Hercus model 0 mill?
    By neksmerj in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 14th May 2011, 03:16 PM
  4. No. 0 Mill Serial Number and Mill at Work Photos
    By Anorak Bob in forum THE HERCUS AREA
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 30th December 2008, 03:31 AM
  5. Comparison Between C.S Mill & Bandsaw Mill
    By echnidna in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 7th October 2007, 04:26 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •