Thread: Mill DRO

Thanks for the pictures Mark.

After measuring for what seems like hours I've changed my mind Dave you bed must be thicker then mine.

Stuart

Hi Stuart,
Just checked my table for you, seems to be around the same thickness.


Dave

Looking back at your pictures, it looks like your T slot is higher up the table which is what's causing you problems. Mine was a tight fit even with the T slot down whee it is.

Their are a few other options like the a power feed T track in front of the angle, you can have it facing down instead of to the front if you wanted to, that way it wouldn't get swarf and other crap filling it up.

Another one is I have seen other guy use stand offs at each end for the scale on mills like yours. The power feed stops are then in between the scale and the table.

Or you could lay the scale down which would give you plenty of room.

I will add some photo's from the other computer in a moment as this one is fairly new and doesn't have much on it.

Dave

PS
Can you give me the exact dimensions of the table and the scale/reader head to see what I can come up with to help out if I can.

Originally Posted by Dave J

Another one is I have seen other guy use stand offs at each end for the scale on mills like yours. The power feed stops are then in between the scale and the table.

This is the idea I am trying now.

Originally Posted by Dave J

Or you could lay the scale down which would give you plenty of room.

I'd thought about this but the angle iron would only be 30mm deep if its going to clear the T slot amd as I would like to only have bolts at the ends I would like it a little deeper.

Stuart

Cheers for the comments/encouragement Dave. I didnt take any photos during the job, so a thread wouldnt be much use I am afraid. Lots of mistakes were made too - I wouldnt want everyone to see how many! The tabs to mount the X-axis scale cover were welded on, then I milled them flat/parallel and tapped for M5 countersunk screws. Credit where its due - you were the inspiration for painting the uncoated metal. I was becoming sick of the light rust forming on the surfaces, so I sprayed them when I had the mill apart. Onto the lathe now!

Thanks for the pictures Dave
The first picture has something I hadnt thought of Y axis adjustable stops. I'll have to remember to have a think about that if I ever get the X axis finished.

The last picture is something like I am doing but with a plate each end with two bolts.
I started work on the plates today, faced one on the mill and didnt like the finish to fired up the shaper. Cleaned up one face on each plate and started roughing the other face which will fit into the T slot.

Might be finished by christmas.......... 2012 lol

Stuart

Originally Posted by markjaffa

The tabs to mount the X-axis scale cover were welded on, then I milled them flat/parallel and tapped for M5 countersunk screws.

Now thats a clever idea.
I still have to get used to being able to do that sort ot thing.

Stuart

Looking at your dimensions you maybe able to still do it a couple of ways having the scale against the table.
The power feed stop T nuts don't come under a lot of pressure, standard some even come plastic.
If the bases are made a bit longer it's more of a lifting force applied to them than a sliding force. In the picture it shows just using the bottom of the T slot to hold it and the top leg could rest onto the T nut. The top leg could be made 0.5mm shorter and that would be enough clamping pressure to hold the stop. A 5mm metric bolt instead of the 8mm standard one would be enough to hold it their and give enough clamping pressure.


This is another idea of having the power feed stop base go up behind the scale so it rests on both top and bottom of the T slot.

Dave

Originally Posted by markjaffa

Cheers for the comments/encouragement Dave. I didnt take any photos during the job, so a thread wouldnt be much use I am afraid. Lots of mistakes were made too - I wouldnt want everyone to see how many! The tabs to mount the X-axis scale cover were welded on, then I milled them flat/parallel and tapped for M5 countersunk screws. Credit where its due - you were the inspiration for painting the uncoated metal. I was becoming sick of the light rust forming on the surfaces, so I sprayed them when I had the mill apart. Onto the lathe now!

Hi Mark,
It was the contoured sides on the little bracket that I thought made them look professional.
Don't worry we all make mistakes it's a fact of learning.
Thanks, when I saw your pictures I had to look again as I thought it was my mill.lol
With posting a thread it doesn't have to be a step by step, it just gives other guys ideas for doing theirs, and I think your DRO fit out is well worth posting on it's own.
Will keep a look out for your lathe one.

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

With posting a thread it doesn't have to be a step by step, it just gives other guys ideas for doing theirs, and I think your DRO fit out is well worth posting on it's own.

And it may help someone else not make your mistakes

Dave the first drawing I thought of but wasnt sure the stops would hold well enough (other than power feed)

The second I was planning on doing but I didnt like the fact that the angle iron would only be 30mm deep as the current plan is only to have it bolted at the ends.(but I might go back to this)

Stuart

Just had another thought. I could machine the bottom 5mm or so of the angle, just enough to make it flat along its length and use that as the other side of the tee slot.
See the little red square I added to your picture.(the red square being part of the powerfeed stop)

more measuring lol

Stuart

Hi Stuart,
I know how you feel it's one big headache trying to get everything to fit.
The last idea wont work because the scale will be in the way. It's not drawn so it's easy to forget the 5mm thickness of the the top of the angle plus 1-2mm clearance and then the scale height all add up to 38-39mm, which would just come into the T slot 3-4mm.
From what you have written, I think you have adjustable table stops in mind like I do.
If so I would go with horizontal mount myself in this situation. That way it will leave the T slot area clear.
The idea of building it out off the table is OK, but I would still use an angle to support the scale, maybe a 6mm thick one since it is only supported on each end.

Dave

Hi Dave
I could space the scale back from the angle enough to get the tab in. The angle would still be "only" 40mm deep.

I have powerfeed stop but I would like to add a postive stop as well. I cant just bottom the power feed stops as the switch box isn't up to it.

The angle I am using is 50x50x6mm

After more time this morning than someone good with a file would have taken to finish it, I almost have the first plate finished. Still I certainly need the practice on the shaper.

Stuart

Hi Stuart,
I have been having a play in paint with some more ideas LOL,as seen below.

With the shaper nice honed tool with small radius and a fine feed should bring up a nearly like ground surface. You have the bulk of it gone now, just give it a sharpen and hone before the final cut. If all else fails give it a fly cut on the mill.

I came up with this idea for a horizontal mount. The main center piece is either a box with the back side cut out or a piece folded up to suit. It is attached by 4 bolts into the saddle which would be plenty strong enough.
The power feed switch would be inside this box with holes drill in the side to suit the plunges. Doing it this way would make this bracket strong and incorporate everything into one thing. You could either mount the switch first then put the box over the top or mount the switch to the box itself.
You could still run a flat bar along the front of the angle to protect everything and the bracket would have extra protection and wouldn't be noticed much because the vise over hangs the front of the table anyway.

This will leave everything clear for your stops.
I have a good picture of a x axis travel stop that a guy made I will chase it up for you, it was very simple but effective. I have made a steel T track for my Y axis travel stops, just have to fit it.

Dave