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Thread: Mill vice rebuild
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16th August 2013, 08:04 PM #16.
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Looking a lot like I am trying to palm off sh.t. 2 15/16" x 2 3/8" x 1 3/16"
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16th August 2013 08:04 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th August 2013, 11:03 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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16th August 2013, 11:35 PM #18
Like Bruce says, not crap at all, a lick on the grinder and they will look like new.
I filled the other hole a day or 2 ago and have let any movement that was going to happen happen. I looked to start scraping the bottom flat tonight so i have a reference for grinding off, but in my shed re-arrange i seem to have put my brayer somewhere, probably though "thats a good place" at the time, and now i can't find it.
Now off to find Rays thread on making mag blocks, anyone got any other good links?
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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17th August 2013, 10:43 AM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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There is another way to build transfer blocks.
Take a block of non magnetic metal brass, Aluminum etc and drill/ream holes through it, then fit magnetic rods through (nails are common use for this) either by interference or a little loctite.
like this.
mag block.jpg
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17th August 2013, 10:56 AM #20
Thanks Josh,
I read a pm thread last night that Richard linked in Rays mag transfer block thread. I had never seen a block like that before but as I found out they are pretty handy as you can put them at any angle on the mag chuck.
Getting a chunk of brass like that could be hard, I guess its another situation of need furnace before I can make them.....need x before I can make furnace etc.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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17th August 2013, 11:14 AM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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Try aluminum, should not be too hard to get a good chunk to play with.
It is almost true about the rotation, but if the a pin short across the poles on the chuck it is dead weight, and also reduces the flux for other pins on the same poles. So if you are going to have a crack at this design, make the pin size as close to the the width of your poles and the spacing the same as the pitch of your chuck for maximum orthogonal strength. Or make a fine one where the pins are about the same size as the laminations in the chuck so you don't get shorting of the poles, when used at an angle.
-Josh
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17th August 2013, 11:31 AM #22.
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17th August 2013, 11:47 AM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Alternate Magnetic Blocks
Josh
A long time ago I made a set just like this.
They did not work, however after reading your mention of pin size & spacing, I think thats where I must have made the mistake. It became obvious that these dimensions are important.
However the brass laminated blocks copied off the "Eclipse" brand like BTs worked fine.
I have 4 of the blocks 2 sets of different sizes also a Vee Block which was handy for accurately surface grinding the Vee in hardened steel Vee Block sets. (All of the above were Foreign Orders in Apprenticeship)
Very handy equipment.
regards
Bruce
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17th August 2013, 12:51 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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Yeah it is important to get the sizing and position of the pins right.
On the subject of mag blocks, here is an advanced one that someone may like to try. I have been meaning to make one but have not got to it yet.
It is a pitch changer and twist the field 90 degrees. Bottom would be filled with something like lead/epoxy to keep the crap out.
Mag twist.jpg
Mag twist bottom.jpg
As far as I know they are not available commercially from anyone?
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17th August 2013, 01:48 PM #25
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17th August 2013, 02:05 PM #26
[H][/H]Ok, so that will spin the field 90 deg around the vertical axis, but what about horizontaly along the length of the chuck? Or does that happen with standard laminated blocks anyway?
1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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17th August 2013, 02:09 PM #27SENIOR MEMBER
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17th August 2013, 02:24 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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How would you sharpen the drills for the holes,to make sure they are accurate before reaming.
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17th August 2013, 02:33 PM #29
Hi Ewan, This might make it clearer? Maybe...
DSCN2309.JPG
Regards
Ray
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17th August 2013, 02:34 PM #30
Yeah not the best explanation there....
Say you want to grind the edge of a thin part, with the face of the wheel. It's too thin to just sit it on the chuck, you need to hold it by the face if the part, which would be vertical. So you need to bend the flux 90deg so the blocks edge will hold the part.
And no, the answer I'm looking for is not use a vice...
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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