Thread: Mill vice rebuild

Originally Posted by Ueee

Yeah not the best explanation there....
Say you want to grind the edge of a thin part, with the face of the wheel. It's too thin to just sit it on the chuck, you need to hold it by the face if the part, which would be vertical. So you need to bend the flux 90deg so the blocks edge will hold the part.
And no, the answer I'm looking for is not use a vice...

Ew

Although it may be possible to engineer something that might work like that, it would need some stick out points to hold in down to the chuck. I have used a smaller mag chuck on its side on top of the main chuck to do what you are asking (ie one jaw vice).

Originally Posted by Ueee

Yeah not the best explanation there....
Say you want to grind the edge of a thin part, with the face of the wheel. It's too thin to just sit it on the chuck,

Wouldnt the side of the block work? (or if the part is to high put the block on its side?)

Stuart

Lightbulb moment....I think.

The mag blocks don't stick to the chuck very well do they, at least when the poles ate aligned? It's only when you put something on the block the whole lot gets clamped down to the chuck.

Or am I wrong.....again?

My chucks poles are 1/2" wide with 1/8" spacers. Odd on a machine made on a metric country, with all metric fasteners etc.

Cheers,
Ew

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Wouldnt the side of the block work? (or if the part is to high put the block on its side?)

Stuart

It would hold it but not very well as the with the part on the side it is only the flux loss in the transfer block that is holding to the chuck, where as when used as a parallel the transfer block is camped between the chuck and the work piece. One thing to consider also is the thinner the part the less holding force and a standard laminated transfer block does not make the chuck a finer pitch.


Out of curiosity what kind of thing did you have in your mind Ewan?

-Josh

Originally Posted by Ueee

Lightbulb moment....I think.

The mag blocks don't stick to the chuck very well do they, at least when the poles ate aligned? It's only when you put something on the block the whole lot gets clamped down to the chuck.

Cheers,
Ew

Spot on...

Hi Josh,

I'd forgotten all about the "thin things" issue.

Stuart

Originally Posted by Brobdingnagian

Out of curiosity what kind of thing did you have in your mind Ewan?

-Josh

Grinding thin parallels Josh.

On another note i found my brayer today.......must have had a daddy look yesterday it was right in front of me the whole time

Originally Posted by Ueee

Grinding thin parallels Josh.

On another note i found my brayer today.......must have had a daddy look yesterday it was right in front of me the whole time

Piece of pie, just set them between two mag blocks and put a stop block on each end. Or the pro way to to make a pair of north south blocks and clamp them between them as per diagram in Rays post top right hand side, typically you would also make one fixed by crossing 3 poles with a spaced by a flux dam.

-Josh

Originally Posted by Brobdingnagian

Piece of pie, just set them between two mag blocks and put a stop block on each end. Or the pro way to to make a pair of north south blocks and clamp them between them as per diagram in Rays post top right hand side, typically you would also make one fixed by crossing 3 poles with a spaced by a flux dam.

-Josh

I'm struggling to read Ray's pic of the page.

N/S blocks, i am thinking a solid block that is missing every second pole on the table, so one is charged N and one S? As you say you fix one down by crossing 3 poles, then you have a sort of vice but just with magnetism, works best on thin stuff.

By using 2 mag blocks i take it there is some grab on the sides of the blocks? This is sort of adding to what Stu was getting at before. The stop blocks are just there to LIGHT BULB* hold the whole lot in place as the mag blocks won't be stuck to the chuck unless the poles are not aligned.

*In that book, the red and grey are the 2 different charges aren't they? Makes sense now

Ew

Here is a repost from BT a couple of years back, I've just made it a little more computer friendly. I found it indispensable for getting my head into mag chuck fixturing.

-Josh

I may have a look at that manual sometime. I have downloaded it. Many years ago I used both reciprocating and rotary surface grinders with mag chucks. I don't recall being told about the location of work pieces when being taught. Yer, slap the bits on there and pull that lever over mate! I was already experienced with other precision grinder types. I loved to set up and operate precision grinders. I have a way with machinery operation but I seemed to have clicked with grinders. Those were the days.

It was not usually a problem with the size of parts I was grinding but I did have some smaller round components pushed off the table of the rotary once. I guess now I know why.

Its funny how you sometimes learn stuff like that years after the event. Had a problem with road holding on an XB GS Coupe many years ago. Took it to what I was told was the best suspension place in Adelaide as well as all the local shops and nobody could explain it. Talking with a one eyed mate about it years later (self taught mechanic, engineer, ultralight pilot etc) and he just said "Oh that will be the ...) Light bulb moment for me too. Why the experts did not pick worn rear shackle bushes as the culprit I have no idea. The car was long sold by then. I had rebuilt the entire front end so I knew it was not that.

Get a lot of those light bulb moments on this forum.

Dean

After running out of things to do on the D/H this arvo i turned to scraping the bottom of the vice.

Damn things got itself a HUGE (relatively speaking) high spot in the middle.....not any more
Stuff stank real bad when i was hoeing in, had smoke coming off the shavings (this iron makes tiny little curly chips not dust) and it was rank!
Needs a bit more off each end, ive got good contact but its failing the spin test.

I know, the pic doesn't really show much. I'm yet to work out how to take good pics of stuff when blued.

Cheers,
Ew

Originally Posted by Ueee

Needs a bit more off each end, ive got good contact but its failing the spin test.

How can it need more off the ends and fail the spin test?
I assume its much heavier at one end than the other? This can stuff up blue and make the spin test look strange. My TPG gave me problems, so I added weight to the light end to balance things up a little.

Originally Posted by Ueee

I know, the pic doesn't really show much. I'm yet to work out how to take good pics of stuff when blued.

Can't be done
The blue doesnt look great, but I've taken pictures of blue I thought looked great and it looks shocking in the pictures.

Are you going to scrap the bottom of the base parallel to the ground top? or flip it back over and scrap/grind the top to the bottom? I guess you could check it first beofre you get to worried.


Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

How can it need more off the ends and fail the spin test?
I assume its much heavier at one end than the other? This can stuff up blue and make the spin test look strange. My TPG gave me problems, so I added weight to the light end to balance things up a little.

Its got full contact but the axis of the spin is right at the ends, not under the fixed jaw and somewhere in the middle as you would expect. I like the idea of some extra weight to balance it out.

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Are you going to scrap the bottom of the base parallel to the ground top? or flip it back over and scrap/grind the top to the bottom? I guess you could check it first beofre you get to worried.

No scrap here...
I plan to grind the flat way off the bottom, then scrape the jaw to the way. Then i'll need to adjust the height of the bit the way plate bolts to (getting into the technical terms here). Then jaws can then be ground square and the steel inserts put in, then i'll grind the top again. The first grinding was only to get it in the ballpark, The top and bottom were not flat and not parallel.

Ew