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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default Hmmm.

    Lets see what comes to my mind:

    My chuck is reasonably new, the chuck jaws have been ground and number matched to the chuck, I only have three slotters 3mm, 5mm and 3/16 and four or five four fluters ranging from 5 – 14mm. Whenever I mill a slot the keys seem to fit pretty good, so good in fact I usually have to prise them out. Perhaps those with problems in this area should buy a better quality lathe, a better quality chuck or try a little maintenance.

    I’ve never had an endmill slip in a chuck yet, never had one break either – ever, in either a mill or a lathe. No doubt some will probably think I’m doing something wrong!

    I never tighten the chuck on an end mill any more than I do with work, can’t see the point as I’ve never had one slip.

    I don’t have hair and certainly don’t wear loose sleeves or clothing when on the lathe, I call it common sense. But I’d never be so arrogant as to lecture anyone on safety protocols, you know what they say about Ass u me. And of course it’s no skin off my nose, hair off my head or clothes off my back!

    In my experience turning on the lathe probably sprays more chips and coolant around than a small 14mm endmill, I added a guard to stop that sort of thing. Again, I call it common sense. Perhaps those with a problem in this area should try making a coolant guard, they’re not difficult to make and it should keep the coolant and chips out of their hair, either that or invest in a hair net. It’s generally accepted that you shouldn’t wear loose fitting clothing with floppy sleeves when around machinery – not smart!

    I never touch anything to a spinning chuck or work: again I’d call that common sense, To each his own though, everyone should do with their tools/toys as they deem fit.

    I heard a father say to his children once ‘Never assume anyone is as silly as you yourself are because if you hold yourself in such great esteem then it is you that is the silly one!’ Truer words have never been spoken!

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,654

    Default

    You asked for "enlightenment"

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,659

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sacc51 View Post
    Lets see what comes to my mind:

    Whenever I mill a slot the keys seem to fit pretty good, so good in fact I usually have to prise them out. Perhaps those with problems in this area should buy a better quality lathe, a better quality chuck or try a little maintenance.
    Hi Sacc51.
    If this line is directed at me I will clarify.
    If milling a slot for a key, the key is then fitted to the machined slot.
    Slots aren't milled for the sole use of a key by the way.
    I would normally use a mill when cutting slots.
    Instead of buying a better chuck I bought an ER chuck. It's made for the job.
    Being a maintenance fitter, I do bucket loads of maintenance.
    And, You did ask for enlightenment.

    Phil

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sacc51 View Post
    I’ve never had an endmill slip in a chuck yet, snip
    I never tighten the chuck on an end mill any more than I do with work, can’t see the point as I’ve never had one slip.
    Then it could be argued that you're tightening your 3 jaw far tighter than needed for normal turning...... but its your chuck.

    Stuart

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default Nope.

    Nope, not aimed at you.
    Collets are more accurate and secure - I am enlightened! The rest - I am amused.

    Incidentally I used a drill chuck for years on my mill - never had a break, slip or a problem of any sort. I used the mill infrequently so sold it and purchased other stuff I use frequently. Better to buy tools you use than keep tools you don't.

    Yes that could be argued Stustoys, it could also be argued that I just use a little common sense when tightening the chuck, after all I still have the same chuck that came with the lathe, have never had to regrind the jaws, the jaws are still parallel and the scroll and jaws are as good as new. How do I know? simple, I disassemble it, check it and maintain it at regular intervals, same as I do with every part of the lathe. And would you believe it, there is also not one stripped thread anywhere on my machine - amazing!

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    Bob have you got a photo of your clarkson drawbar please.....
    Here you go Dale.

    DSCN1621 (Large).JPG DSCN1605 (Large).JPG DSCN1608 (Large).JPG

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,417

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sacc51 View Post
    ....................

    I’ve never had an endmill slip in a chuck yet, never had one break either – ever, in either a mill or a lathe. No doubt some will probably think I’m doing something wrong!

    ................
    Congratulations. Not many machinists could claim to never have broken a mill. At least, I do not know any that could make such a claim...

    I did almost 20 years all my milling in the lathe, before getting a mill. Lathes are not as rigid as mills, lots of flex and chatter. Epecially light bench lathes. Breaking mills in the lathe is not something shameful, it just happens if you do enough milling work. Some older lathes only hold down the front of the saddle by gravity and cutting forces. Fine for turning as the cutting forces always press the saddle onto the ways. But when milling this is not the case, the saddle can lift and the cutter catch and break. Also, when milling in the lathe by a vertical slide you advance the workpiece into the milling cutter with the leadscrew through the closed half nuts. Many older lathes have considerable backlash that way. The milling cutter tries to corkscrew itself into the workpiece, therby pulling the saddle towards itself within the said backlash. Especially when using an Aluminium cutter with tight helix into some materials. This is the reason it is usually not recommended to use carbide mills in the lathe, too brittle and fragile.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,277

    Default

    Thanks Bob, I have some railway bridge bolts that are probably large enough to make one from with a bit of machining.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

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