Thread: Milling Parallels

Hi Dean,
Parallels are needed to bring the work up so it can be machined above the vice jaws. A set of 1/8" thick is all you really need, like these Precision Steel Parallels 10 Pair Set 1/8" Parallel | eBay is fine.
I would also suggest you get a copy of Harold Hall's Milling book Milling: A Complete Course Hall, Harold | eBay you may find it cheaper off ebay though.

Doesn't really matter if you get pairs or singles if your only using one at a time.

Would suggest you try and source different heights and thicknesses,the kits come with different heights but are generally all the same thickness,this can become a problem sometimes with foreign objects getting between the layers,can also slow you down when setting up more than one job (Cleaning).

Apart from there use as packers to raise a job above vice jaws they are used to raise items above the work table when required,can be used as a vertical or horizontal reference a tool setting datum,a stop for work pieces when setting up,there uses are numerous and really only limited by you thoughts.

If not already purchased a good set or sets of vee blocks are a compliment to the parallels,a range of sizes in these is also advantageous also 1 or 2 angle blocks.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Doesn't really matter if you get pairs or singles if your only using one at a time.

Would suggest you try and source different heights and thicknesses,the kits come with different heights but are generally all the same thickness,this can become a problem sometimes with foreign objects getting between the layers,can also slow you down when setting up more than one job (Cleaning).

Apart from there use as packers to raise a job above vice jaws they are used to raise items above the work table when required,can be used as a vertical or horizontal reference a tool setting datum,a stop for work pieces when setting up,there uses are numerous and really only limited by you thoughts.

If not already purchased a good set or sets of vee blocks are a compliment to the parallels,a range of sizes in these is also advantageous also 1 or 2 angle blocks.

Thanks Pipeclay. I am not sure about the need for different thicknesses at this stage because as you say, the kits come with the same thickness. I will look at different thicknesses later on if I need them.

I have also thought about vee blocks. My experience is in working in an engineering firm (nearly 30 yrs ago). The only use items such as vee blocks and parallels were put to were inspection. I need to come to terms with using these in setting up and doing a job. I am unsure just how far to go. I felt myself cringe a little when reading things that gauge blocks were used for. We used them on the shop floor but only in certain circumstances. I need to consider my work as more of a toolroom activity than what I have been used to.

Dean

Originally Posted by Ueee

Hi Dean,
Parallels are needed to bring the work up so it can be machined above the vice jaws. A set of 1/8" thick is all you really need, like these Precision Steel Parallels 10 Pair Set 1/8" Parallel | eBay is fine.
I would also suggest you get a copy of Harold Hall's Milling book Milling: A Complete Course Hall, Harold | eBay you may find it cheaper off ebay though.

A copy of that book and the "Lathework" book as well has been ordered. Total cost about $22.00. I did check other sources.

Dean

An update on my OP. The milling vice is identical to the Vertex in the link except for the "VERTEX" Plate on it. I paid $175 for it new so I am happy. I have trammed the mill to within 0.035mm along the X axis. The Y axis tram was less than 0.02mm. I am guessing that this is more than adequate for my needs. I have aligned the milling vice to less than 0.02mm end to end although there is a bit more variation along the length of the jaw. Maybe another 0.02mm. I have been using the mini base that came with my new DTI, clamped in the chuck for this work. Unscrewed a hex mount and put that in the chuck. Eventually I will build a tramming arm. I have also been using the magnetic precision blocks to tram off.

All that work yesterday and today working on the mill and vice and I didn't even turn on the power point. I have used it for making various brackets for a Sliding Compound Mitre Saw stand tho. I need to drill some fairly clean round 25mm holes in 50mm RHS so I can press in HDPE bushes for mark 2 of my notebook support arm. I know that is not real milling work!

Another question I forgot to ask is about different jaws for the milling vice. Vee slots to enable holding of round materials is one thing I am likely to require. Is a vee block the way to go rather than seperate jaws? The more opinions the better.

Dean

I'd go separate V blocks. I have a drill press vice with the vees in it and while that is handy I have noticed that small (flat or square) can tilt into the vee grooves if I'm not careful with placement. Drilling should only have forces in one direction. Milling they could be in several so even more care would be needed.

Michael

Thought about ordering some parallels to use on my Cincinnati #2 Univeral, but then I saw a local firm putting out a bundle of 300mm long pieces of key steel in assorted sizes, in their bargain bin, so bought pairs of them in a few sizes. They appear to be quite acceptably straight and true, and have worked well the few times I have used them to date.
A light zinc finish means rust is not a problem. Combustor.

Originally Posted by Combustor

Thought about ordering some parallels to use on my Cincinnati #2 Univeral, but then I saw a local firm putting out a bundle of 300mm long pieces of key steel in assorted sizes, in their bargain bin, so bought pairs of them in a few sizes. They appear to be quite acceptably straight and true, and have worked well the few times I have used them to date.
A light zinc finish means rust is not a problem. Combustor.

I would think that most of the work I would be doing would be able to be done using something of that nature. There may be times I need the accuracy of parallels but most work would not.

Dean