Thread: Mitutoyo Test Indicators

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Would the Mitutoyo Indicators (made in Japan, so the dial says) bought from India/China etc be the real deal? Looking at getting a Levered Dial Test Indicator, and am curious as to authenticity.
Thanks
Kryn

Probably not, I've noticed that prices of the Mitutoyo's from India is comparable to buying from reputable dealers.. don't assume that because it's expensive it's going to be the real deal. The copies are so good now that it's really hard to pick from pictures, and also they use pictures of the genuine thing in their ads, so you can't tell anyway.

As an example... here is the genuine 513-404E DTI http://www.msi-viking.com/Mitutoyo-5...T_p_22272.html $US106.92

This one is from India, could be genuine, but how can you tell? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-MITUT...item2c968e6b33 $A119

Buy the time you convert to A$ and allow for postage, the one which is guaranteed genuine is not much more expensive that the one which is 50% likely to be fake.

On the other hand, I have a fake Mitutoyo that cost next to nothing, it works well enough for the money.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Level-Gau...item3aa0643e75 $12.93 with free postage.. guaranteed to be a fake.

Ray

Thanks Ray,
At that price, I would say its a knock off or that a truck load "got knocked off". I'm amazed that the manufacturer of Mitutoyo gear doesn't try to stop them using the name. When it says "0-0.8" does that mean total lever movement or what? I hope you don't mind answering "newbie questions" like this, but you got to start somewhere. I have other DTI's but not a lever type.
Regards
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Thanks Ray,
At that price, I would say its a knock off or that a truck load "got knocked off". I'm amazed that the manufacturer of Mitutoyo gear doesn't try to stop them using the name. When it says "0-0.8" does that mean total lever movement or what? I hope you don't mind answering "newbie questions" like this, but you got to start somewhere. I have other DTI's but not a lever type.
Regards
Kryn

Well, they keep trying to stop the fakes... but they keep coming..

If you look at the dial markings on the 513-404, you'll see it goes from zero at the top, and +40 one way, and -40 the other way, each division is 0.01mm, so it reads from -0.40mm to +0.40mm that's the 0.8mm travel.

Ray

I've got a cheapie, it works great and I flog the poor thing. Wouldn't have it as my only one. but for $12 it means I don't have to get my glasses.out as often.

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

I have other DTI's but not a lever type.

Just to be picky. I've always called.the lever type DTI's. The plunger type I call Dial gauges. I think thats the 'norm'?
Stuart

Hi

If you are looking for a decent DTI , the trick is to look on UK ebay for 'VERDICT' brand . Verdict were made in England and used ones are reasonably priced . The quality of a average Verdict DTI would be better than a Asian DTI copy

Would the Mitutoyo Indicators (made in Japan, so the dial says) bought from India/China etc be the real deal?

I have also seen a lot of "Mitutogo" dial indicators on ebay. Clearly a knockoff but avoiding copywrite with a subtle letter change.
I have one and it works OK but not as good as the real deal. The build quality is low and mounting accessories terrible (die cast threads) but for only a few dollars extra when I bought a cheep magnetic stand I was not expecting much.

I just happened to be going through my dial indicators today and was wondering what others use and recommend. Is it worth getting something better than a 0.01mm resolution gauge for setting the vice on the mill or work in the four jaw, or is it just splitting hairs?

Originally Posted by Belair_boy

I just happened to be going through my dial indicators today and was wondering what others use and recommend. Is it worth getting something better than a 0.01mm resolution gauge for setting the vice on the mill or work in the four jaw, or is it just splitting hairs?

The problem with high resolution gauges is you can easily end up chasing your tail looking for that last few divisions when its not necessary. Most times, unless you are doing high precision work a thou or so is close enough.

I read somewhere that to set up a small vise, use a straight bar about 200 - 250 mm long mounted in the vise, and clock off it. If you get 0.01 mm off the ends, your vise would be pretty close, a lot closer than working off the shorter fixed jaws.
Kryn

Originally Posted by Stustoys

I've got a cheapie, it works great and I flog the poor thing. Wouldn't have it as my only one. but for $12 it means I don't have to get my glasses.out as often.

Just to be picky. I've always called.the lever type DTI's. The plunger type I call Dial gauges. I think that's the 'norm'?
Stuart

Thanks for that Stuart, there's a lot to learn being a newbie (at accuracy).
Kryn

Originally Posted by RayG

On the other hand, I have a fake Mitutoyo that cost next to nothing, it works well enough for the money.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Level-Gau...item3aa0643e75 $12.93 with free postage.. guaranteed to be a fake.

Ray

Where is Jepan?

Nice spotting, never noticed it. Therefore it is a FAKE, as they would never allow that to happen.
Kryn