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Thread: MMD-45 Mill

  1. #1
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    Default MMD-45 Mill

    Darn. Missed by 1 day. I tried to use my previous thread, but I was too late.

    I just had a thought to ask this question of the members. A bit late, but who knows.

    After I got my mill setup, I had a look at opening it up to check for foreign bodies. It proved rather difficult and I could not see how I was going to align everything to get it back together so I chickened out.

    Has anybody managed this proceedure that could help me thru it?

    Mill Head.jpg

    This is the mill in question.

    Dean

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    Default dead chinese

    Oldneweng;1782513I had a look at opening it up to check for foreign bodies.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG[QUOTE=Oldneweng;1782513I had a look at opening it up to check for foreign bodies.


    This is the mill in question.

    Dean[/QUOTE]

    The factory wouldnt allow any dead people inside that machine .

    Do you mean inside the gearbox? I have the same gearbox on my DM 45 , when its running át higher speeds it sounds rather horrible , I drained the oil , not any sign of metal filings at all . The clattering noises may be caused by the cheap metal they made the gears with Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    Oldneweng;1782513I had a look at opening it up to check for foreign bodies.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG

    The factory wouldnt allow any dead people inside that machine .

    Do you mean inside the gearbox? I have the same gearbox on my DM 45 , when its running át higher speeds it sounds rather horrible , I drained the oil , not any sign of metal filings at all . The clattering noises may be caused by the cheap metal they made the gears with Mike
    I did consider drugs, until I had so much trouble getting it apart!

    There is no actual problems with the mill gearbox. It sounds fine. No clattering noises. In fact I have yet to find a problem with this mill except for its size, which was my choice. (I am still on the lookout for a bargain replacement) I want it to keep sounding fine. I was just thinking about checking for casting, manufacturing leftovers, bread crusts etc. Maybe banana skins.

    Dean

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    Default

    I have a similar mill ( HM-45 ) I think I just undid some cap screws on the top cover and peered in from the top. ( Is that all you want to do?)
    Mine had iron filings on the bottom of the housing. I flushed them out a put in some new oil.

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    Default

    Hi there,

    I have a similar mill, a Zay7045L/1. I have taken the top cover of the head and since completely taken it apart and jet washed it inside and out. I also replaced all the cheap Chinese bearings with good quality Japanese ones and it sounds as good as it ever will. The trickiest part with these is the fact that the top plate houses bearings for the shafts in the gearbox. It's hit and miss when you remove the top plate as to whether the bearings pull out of the top plate or you pull the entire shaft up and the bearings come out from the bottom. Either way it's not too complex to put it back together. The last time I took the top plate off was to make an adapter plate and bore out the internal coupling and cut a new internal keyway to adapt it to a replacement 3 phase motor for VFD conversion.

    Once you have done it once, it's pretty easy. And that's coming from me!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Hi there,

    I have a similar mill, a Zay7045L/1. I have taken the top cover of the head and since completely taken it apart and jet washed it inside and out. I also replaced all the cheap Chinese bearings with good quality Japanese ones and it sounds as good as it ever will. The trickiest part with these is the fact that the top plate houses bearings for the shafts in the gearbox. It's hit and miss when you remove the top plate as to whether the bearings pull out of the top plate or you pull the entire shaft up and the bearings come out from the bottom. Either way it's not too complex to put it back together. The last time I took the top plate off was to make an adapter plate and bore out the internal coupling and cut a new internal keyway to adapt it to a replacement 3 phase motor for VFD conversion.

    Once you have done it once, it's pretty easy. And that's coming from me!

    Simon
    That sounds more like the situation I am facing. The gear shaft ends are visible in the top plate. That is what I want to know. What will happen when I take it apart, and how difficult it is to align the shafts and put it all back together. New bearings are a thought, considering what I have heard about Chinese ones, but it depends on how much it will cost at the moment.

    Dean

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    Hi Dean,

    Well the bearings are not an ultra tight fit in their seats, in fact they are almost a sliding fit in the worst case. Putting the top plate back on just required a small amount of giggling. You still have about 20mm of gap to "eyeball" things into place. If things are not quite lined up then it's a matter of just tapping the shaft a tad with a screw driver or similar item. You will know when things are lined up as the top will slide down about 5mm or so with little effort, then it's a matter for a soft mallet and your good. Potentially the most difficult part is aligning the sliding gears with the gear selectors although I seemed to have manage that pretty easily each time too.

    Go on, take your top off. You know you want to!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Hi Dean,

    Well the bearings are not an ultra tight fit in their seats, in fact they are almost a sliding fit in the worst case. Putting the top plate back on just required a small amount of giggling. You still have about 20mm of gap to "eyeball" things into place. If things are not quite lined up then it's a matter of just tapping the shaft a tad with a screw driver or similar item. You will know when things are lined up as the top will slide down about 5mm or so with little effort, then it's a matter for a soft mallet and your good. Potentially the most difficult part is aligning the sliding gears with the gear selectors although I seemed to have manage that pretty easily each time too.

    Go on, take your top off. You know you want to!

    Simon
    Thanks for the advice Simon. I will have a crack when I get the chance.

    Dean

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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Go on, take your top off. You know you want to!
    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    I will have a crack when I get the chance.
    For once i will ask for no photo's!

    Ew
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    I have been putting off pulling mine apart for a while. The gearbox is really loud these days. A ton of backlash in the gears. When I pull the power the spindle stops dead. It used to spin down - not anymore.. I think I might have pushed it a bit hard with face cutters etc. I am planning on doing a belt drive conversion after I finish fitting the CNC mounts (aka never ending project).

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    Quote Originally Posted by variant22 View Post
    I have been putting off pulling mine apart for a while. The gearbox is really loud these days. A ton of backlash in the gears. When I pull the power the spindle stops dead. It used to spin down - not anymore.. I think I might have pushed it a bit hard with face cutters etc. I am planning on doing a belt drive conversion after I finish fitting the CNC mounts (aka never ending project).
    I have had a 50mm face cutter for over 18 months. I have just started using it for the first time. Makes life easy. I started repairing the feed stop shaft brackets as mentioned in my Lathe Thread, on the weekend. After a couple of cuts with an 16mm end mill I realised it was silly to do two cuts when I could do it in one, and swapped to the face cutter. I got a 75mm face cutter with the lathe. This one had brazed tungsten cutters which need setting for height. I could not get them right, so I gave up. I was just playing with it just to prove it was useless.

    Dean

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    I did consider drugs, until I had so much trouble getting it apart!

    There is no actual problems with the mill gearbox. It sounds fine. No clattering noises. In fact I have yet to find a problem with this mill except for its size, which was my choice. (I am still on the lookout for a bargain replacement) I want it to keep sounding fine. I was just thinking about checking for casting, manufacturing leftovers, bread crusts etc. Maybe banana skins.

    Dean
    I have to retract this statement about not having clattering noises. It does have clattering noises when it is under load. I discovered that tonight while face milling.

    I also noticed a small amount of dark residue sitting in the oil level glass. Off with its top.

    Dean

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    Yeah have to pull mine down. My head looks exactly like yours, except mine is on a round column and the winder to move the whole assy is on the left.

    Have an issue with the winder. Sometimes the head drops a fraction. Initially thought it was the spindle, but other day was winding it up and felt it drop slightly.

    Any fotos of internals would be appreciated. There must be heaps of these heads around the traps.
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