Thread: Morse taper question

Seems close. Maybe draw a cross section on paper, and see what it looks like?

Jordan

It would give you just under 2mm thickness to the bottom of the thread.

Not sure what you mean by drilling and then reaming.

You would need to use a morse taper drill to get close and then ream to finish.

If possibly best to bore and then ream.

If you only have straight drills it can be done but would require multiple drills and calcs worked out for the correct depth of each drill,and you will probably only get one chance at it.

Theres no need to go to the full specs of the taper,if you wanted to have more wall thickness at the base of the threads you would have to shorten the overall length of the taper.

If you look for morse taper specs you could work out how much shorter to make the taper to increase wall thickness.

Holding will still be good depending on how short you make it.

Thank you both for your advice!!
Yes I think drawing to scale to see what wall thickness gives the length of taper. Pipeclay, is there such a thing as a "Morse drill"? If I could get onto one of them, boy, that would make the operation less daunting. I do agree that I would only get one chance.

I have read that there are.

I have never seen one.

There's also such a thing as a roughing reamer. Might work ok in soft steel but you'd still have to step drill first I think.

How do you plan to do this drilling and keep it true?

Hello, I dont know much about this sort of stuff but was wondering if somehow one of these things could be adapted to help.

http://3.imimg.com/data3/NT/BY/MY-22...le-250x250.jpg

saves you cutting the taper - you just have to somehow fit this thing in to do what you want

Bill

I would investigate buying or making a drive centre that fits your spindle thread.

Here is a bit more info after doing a scale drawing of the spindle.
Shaft is 25mm Bright Shaft
Shaft dia at bottom of 1" 8# thread 22mm
Taper thickness at 60mm penetration 17.5mm
Would 2.5 mm wall thickness stand up to the forces exerted by say an uneven out of round lump of timber?
Should the Shaft be remanufactured from 4140? ( something a bit tougher?)

Thanks for taking the time to ponder my questions

No idea about the wood but would expect all to still to be okay.

The thing with wood butchers is they don;t really know what they have or what they want.

4140 would be okay even 1045 may work.

Originally Posted by chambezio

Would 2.5 mm wall thickness stand up to the forces exerted by say an uneven out of round lump of timber?
Should the Shaft be remanufactured from 4140? ( something a bit tougher?)

How big a piece of timber and how fast would it spin? Even if you answer that I still don't know.

More to the point, remake the spindle in a bigger size. Morse 2 is kinda piddly. If your spindle is struggling to accept that and you want to turn rough stuff, maybe you need to upsize. But what do I know? Be guided by standard practices with wood lathes I guess. The wood turning forum might be more help.

Most of the small to mid size wood lathes come standard with a #2 morse taper and 1x8 UNC thread in the headstock spindle. Exactly what you are trying to end up with. Go for it.

Pete

To put you all out of your misery because you have been sitting on the edge of your chairs just waiting for news about the operation......I contacted the Forum's In House Woodturning Guru he gave me some practical advise and today I accomplished the job with little fanfare. I step drilled a little then mounted the Morse Reamer in the hole and bought up the tailstock with 60° revolving centre to apply a little pressure. suggested to fit a pair of vicegrips to the square end of the reamer and let it sit on the toolrest then with my left hand turn the spindle and with my right hand advance the tailstock. That method worked a treat.
I have about 50mm for the depth of the taper and it seems like it is plenty to grip what ever I put in the nose of the lathe