Thread: So Where To Next, The Motor Rewinder?

Bob - What about bringing it along next Sunday?

You could just upgrade to a better model.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hercus-To...item3cdf2d007d

PDW

Originally Posted by BobL

Bob - What about bringing it along next Sunday?

Will do Bob.

Originally Posted by PDW

You could just upgrade to a better model.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hercus-To...item3cdf2d007d

PDW

You know Peter, a few months back I would have looked longingly at that.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

You know Peter, a few months back I would have looked longingly at that.

Any T&C grinder is good if you don't have a better one. I *may* be getting one like your new one as well, but the devil is in the detail.

Funny thing is, there's a second one of the old model on ebay ATM for $400, in Sydney.

PDW

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

The red wires just buried themselves. Sadly there was no easy fixing securing the stator and an application of heat and some careful slapping onto a bock of wood achieved nothing. I'm thinking of modifying the bearing puller I knocked up a while back and having a go at pressing the stator out. Not much to lose.

BT

Attachment 309752Attachment 309750Attachment 309751Attachment 309753

I have just recalled how the motor rewinders did rewinds on large semi hermetic compressors where the stator was in the shell with no access at other end this was where the other bearing was fitted into part of the casing

Lots of heat ie 4-6 large oxy acet burners...not the 8,6 etc tips, those heating types applied to outside of motor casting.

all this was happening while the compressor was lifted by chain block with stator facing ground....heat and when ready hit the compressor with large small slegde type hammer and timber to prevent damage to casting, and stator falls out

I am talking about a stator that accepts a rotor of greater 400mm dia tho...wonder if this would work on yours?

Originally Posted by eskimo

I have just recalled how the motor rewinders did rewinds on large semi hermetic compressors where the stator was in the shell with no access at other end this was where the other bearing was fitted into part of the casing

Lots of heat ie 4-6 large oxy acet burners...not the 8,6 etc tips, those heating types applied to outside of motor casting.

all this was happening while the compressor was lifted by chain block with stator facing ground....heat and when ready hit the compressor with large small slegde type hammer and timber to prevent damage to casting, and stator falls out

I am talking about a stator that accepts a rotor of greater 400mm dia tho...wonder if this would work on yours?

I reckon I'd need to scale it down a touch! I'm wondering if my idea of a modification of the bearing puller so that it engages the narrow edge of the stator and a combination of hot air gun heat might do the trick Richard. The bore of the stator is only 50mm.

Another thing. I left the bit of string I intended using to re-tether the loosened windings at Bob's. I'm champing at the bit to see the grinder perform and Sunday's sort of too far away. Would the string they use for trussing meat be up to the task?

Bob.

edit. Forget the trussing. How about brickie's nylon string line ?

Originally Posted by PDW

Any T&C grinder is good if you don't have a better one. I *may* be getting one like your new one as well, but the devil is in the detail.

Funny thing is, there's a second one of the old model on ebay ATM for $400, in Sydney.

PDW

Any T&C no matter how good, is hamstrung without accessories IMO. That 3 of mine had an internal grinding spindle that ran out of true and a tailstock. About as useful as buying one shoe. Seeing and subsequently buying Peter's No.1 on the other hand with it's array of accessories was like finding El Dorado.

If anyone was looking at a Hercus T&C, the 3A would be a better acquisition than the older 3. The 3A's table runs on balls like the 1. The 3's table slides on V ways. The two older models are easily identified, the 3 has a large, 8" ish diameter handwheel for the table traverse. The 3A (and the 1) has a very small wheel for the same function.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Any T&C no matter how good, is hamstrung without accessories IMO. That 3 of mine had an internal grinding spindle that ran out of true and a tailstock. About as useful as buying one shoe. Seeing and subsequently buying Peter's No.1 on the other hand with it's array of accessories was like finding El Dorado.

If anyone was looking at a Hercus T&C, the 3A would be a better acquisition than the older 3. The 3A's table runs on balls like the 1. The 3's table slides on V ways. The two older models are easily identified, the 3 has a large, 8" ish diameter handwheel for the table traverse. The 3A (and the 1) has a very small wheel for the same function.

BT

Quite agree about the accessories; I never would have bought mine if it didn't come with a cabinet full including the cylindrical grinding head. I won't be parting with them unless I score a better set. Not sure what my friend with the No 1 has, I was more interested in other stuff at the time.

Mine is the original Model 3 with the V ways and large handwheel. The V ways are quite worn, I never did think much of the design and if you couple that with idiots who can't read and use grease in the oil nipples - not good. I could fix it, maybe even add linear rails etc, but I don't have the time.

Can't offer any suggestions WRT your small motor except, is it possible to replace it with another fractional HP 240V 3 phase one? I have 3 or 4 very low HP 3 phase motors in the pallet racks, not sure if they can be swapped to 240V though. They've all got worm reduction g/boxes on them.

PDW

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I reckon I'd need to scale it down a touch! I'm wondering if my idea of a modification of the bearing puller so that it engages the narrow edge of the stator and a combination of hot air gun heat might do the trick Richard. The bore of the stator is only 50mm.

Another thing. I left the bit of string I intended using to re-tether the loosened windings at Bob's. I'm champing at the bit to see the grinder perform and Sunday's sort of too far away. Would the string they use for trussing meat be up to the task?

Bob.

edit. Forget the trussing. How about brickie's nylon string line ?

When I was discussing connecting my lathe motor to the vfd with the local motor rewinder's, I was told

In regards to tape to re tie, you can use any twine/string/cotton webbing, you don't have to use high temp stuff, as the tape/string just holds the windings together, it has nothing to do with any the actual windings.

Cheers

Dean

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I reckon I'd need to scale it down a touch! I'm wondering if my idea of a modification of the bearing puller so that it engages the narrow edge of the stator and a combination of hot air gun heat might do the trick Richard. The bore of the stator is only 50mm.

Another thing. I left the bit of string I intended using to re-tether the loosened windings at Bob's. I'm champing at the bit to see the grinder perform and Sunday's sort of too far away. Would the string they use for trussing meat be up to the task?

Bob.

edit. Forget the trussing. How about brickie's nylon string line ?

That's what I use.

I visited BobL again this afternoon and took along the workhead body with its pressed in stator. Bob had suggested knocking the stator out after heating the housing. On inspection he deemed that a risky procedure due to the probability of damage to the very fine windings. I took the thing home and partially parted then sawed off the end. I could not risk pulling the body out of the chuck, as it was I snapped off the narrow parting blade I started using.

I'll take a few close up shots of the windings tomorrow.

BT

You did a nice job of guessing where to cut.

Originally Posted by Bryan

You did a nice job of guessing where to cut.

A dentist's mirror and a depth vernier gave me some confidence.

Good job Bob,

Did you see the spaghetti we were looking at using the dentists mirror that looked like it had 3 wires coming out of it?