Thread: motor shaft dilemma

HI mike, sorry to lead you astray, I checked the motor and it's only 28mm. Not sure why I thought it was 30, maybe because mine in 25mm I thought it was bigger.

With my motor and postage, when Bryan sent me the motor to Newcastle it cost me around $60 and was delivered by Star track form memory, but once it arrived I realised it was only 18kg so it could have come by Aus post (20kg limit) and would have only cost $40-$45, so a little saving. I was not real worried as Bryan gave me the motor so that was the only cost, but it might give you an idea of postage price.

Dave

Originally Posted by Machtool

Thats not going to work Bro. The A section belt will just bottom out in the B section driven pulley.

Phil.

Yes thats what I was thinking . So I have to stay with B section ....

As I don't have broaching tooling , whats wrong with loctite ? One the pulley is on, I'm not likely to take it off again for XXX years . MIKE

Originally Posted by morrisman

thats what I am wondering . If I use a A section pulley on the motor , can I retain the B section driven pulley ?

It depends. I said A's cause that's all I have seen twin belt taper locks in. An a belt should go unto a b pulley, as long as the b pulley is machined deep enough. However the pcd changes so you have to allow for that in pulley size. I can have a look when I get home to see what the pcd difference is between a and b in the same pulley. Otherwise you could go a mi lock with 2 pulleys on the one hub. These can be a or b.

Ewan

Originally Posted by morrisman

thats what I am wondering . If I use a A section pulley on the motor , can I retain the B section driven pulley ?

No, as said above it will not work.

Back to the original plan of sleeving it I think. Unless you can but a 28mm B section pulley.

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

it was only 18kg so it could have come by Aus post (20kg limit) and would have only cost $40-$45, so a little saving.
Dave

Get out. Sorry about that Dave. I would have weighed it on my old 50lb spring scale which is all I have in that range.

Back to your regular programming.

Originally Posted by morrisman

Yes thats what I was thinking . So I have to stay with B section ....

As I don't have broaching tooling , whats wrong with loctite ? One the pulley is on, I'm not likely to take it off again for XXX years . MIKE

I would have thought that you would be able to have someone broach the keyway for you. Over here there was a bloke who would broach a standard* size keyway for ten dollars a pop.

Sounded appealing when I was making the spindle for my dividing head. Then I found out the spindle diameter and corresponding gear, bush and indexing ring were certainly not standard for the keyway required. I bought my own broach and turned and milled a guide bush to suit.

I guess you could glue the thing on but consider the 250 degrees C required to remove it if you put it in the wrong place.

*standard - common motor shaft sizes.

BT

Originally Posted by Bryan

Get out. Sorry about that Dave. I would have weighed it on my old 50lb spring scale which is all I have in that range.

Back to your regular programming.

Not a problem Bryan and please don't take that toward you at all as it was not meant to be, it was just a idea of postage prices for motor.
It was a great score in my eyes and very generous of you to give up a motor. So no complaints here.

Dave

Are any of these an option. Scroll down to page 13.

http://www.naismith.com.au/catalogues/polyv/vpulley.pdf

Looking at the ruler up there at post #7, I’d call that about 5 ½” or close to 139mm. I’d be guessing that’s a pitch circle of 132mm That would be the SPB132 x 2 or SPB 132 x 3 on page 13.

Couple of options there in 2 and 3 groove, and both of them take a 2012 taperlocks. They come in all sizes between 5/8 – 14mm to 1 7/8 – 50mm.

Fenner do the exact same thing, their part numbers would be 0906 2900 & 0906 3006.

Phil.

Excellent Phil

I will ask the local retailers EG BJ Bearings to see if they are distributors

MIKE

BJ Bearings should be able to get anything from Naismith. Lots of bearing companies go to them. They (BJ) have a division somewhat close to me in Campbellfield. They are fairly good operators.

Not sure if you can go direct to Naismith, they don’t tend to retail. I have an account with them, if you get desperate.

Phil.

If you are thinking of going to the trouble of loctite why dont you just put a key in the shaft that dosent stick above the shaft and just use a grub screw,you could even put 2 seperate grub screws or you maybe able to put 2 in the same hole if theres enough meet.
Would be just like the setup used on the broken shaper throw out housing.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

If you are thinking of going to the trouble of loctite why dont you just put a key in the shaft that dosent stick above the shaft and just use a grub screw,you could even put 2 seperate grub screws or you maybe able to put 2 in the same hole if theres enough meet.
Would be just like the setup used on the broken shaper throw out housing.

Yes I could do that I just grabbed the pulley , and it fits in my Burnerd reverse 4 jaw on the Sherarton OK .... so machining it is no problem . Its rather weighty so spindle speeds would be low .

I go into the local BJ Bearings fairly often , so I will ask them re those pullies . Depends on how much they are and the distance between the V centres . I went in there the other day and bought $1.50 worth of lock nuts , a dozen . I fitted them on the old peerless power hacksaw , the adjustment nuts on the main sliding ways are always working loose on that thing , drives me crazy.

I have asked that guy selling the motor on EBAY , what shaft size it has . If I can buy that motor cheap enough , then its worth TNT moving it down here . door to door

Mike

the Fenner online catalogue is not working this morning but this one is

http://www.taperlockpulleycoupling.c...l-pulleys.html

indian company but it will give you an idea of what is available

bollie7

Originally Posted by Dave J

No, as said above it will not work.

Back to the original plan of sleeving it I think. Unless you can but a 28mm B section pulley.

Dave

You can get taperlock B section pulleys. We used them all the time. Not sure what a 2 groove B section is worth but the bushings run about $15 each for the sizes I use, up to 40mm shafts.

Taperlocks are the fastest & simplest way to go. If you ever need to swap anything in the future for a new motor shaft size, it's the cheap bushing to suit. I use type 1610 and 1615 weld-in hubs all the time for making up drive flanges etc, all my boat steering gear is fabricated this way. It will *not* slip under any sane load. I've spun a 40mm shaft in the Monarch lathe chuck when I had a dig-in machining the face of a big flange running out of true, and that was with no key fitted, just the taperlock onto the shaft.

As I said in the first place, it all depends on what you have more of, time or money.

PDW