Thread: Mounting a Chuck on Rotary Table.

Good luck hope it works, a smaller chuck or thick plate 30 plus would make it easier.

It appears that the combination of 3 mounting holes and 4 mounting holes does not work very well together.

Tilting Rotary Table Back Plate.jpg

This is a rough drawing of the situation. 3 chuck mount holes with 16mm OD tubes and an almost possible layout for the table hole positions. These positions need to include space for my fingers to put on an M6 nut.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

It appears that the combination of 3 mounting holes and 4 mounting holes does not work very well together.

Tilting Rotary Table Back Plate.jpg

This is a rough drawing of the situation. 3 chuck mount holes with 16mm OD tubes and an almost possible layout for the table hole positions. These positions need to include space for my fingers to put on an M6 nut.

Dean

So perhaps prior to welding the 2 plates to the central tube you countersink the underside of the 3 holes that will be used to mount the chuck to the "upper" plate so you can then bolt the chuck on with short countersunk SHCS using a cut-down allen key. That then leaves clearance for the studs or bolts that will go through the "lower" plate into the 4 slots on the rotab. That eliminates the potential interference between the fixings in the 3 holes and 4 holes

Originally Posted by Gavin Newman

So perhaps prior to welding the 2 plates to the central tube you countersink the underside of the 3 holes that will be used to mount the chuck to the "upper" plate so you can then bolt the chuck on with short countersunk SHCS using a cut-down allen key. That then leaves clearance for the studs or bolts that will go through the "lower" plate into the 4 slots on the rotab. That eliminates the potential interference between the fixings in the 3 holes and 4 holes

It appears that I will have to do something like that, for one of the chuck mount bolts at least. After PC's first post I thought it was going to turn out so easy.

My materials shortage has now been eliminated by a generous forum member. Back to using a solid piece I will need to think carefully about the best way to do it. I am currently thinking about slotting the side of the backplate. Drilling a 1/4" hole from the top into the slot and then creating a pocket for the head of a socket head bolt by milling in from the side, or opening up the side of the hole all the way up so the bolt can be slid in sideways or a combination of the 2 ideas. I will need to mock up a sample to try these ideas. I am not sure when tho. I plan on finishing the 3 ball handle for my lathe first, then a mount setup for the chucks on the back of the chip tray and then mount the electric winch that arrived yesterday on the girder above the lathe. This is all after I finish some work on the fire fighting unit and tile the bathroom walls.

Dean

Would I be stoned for suggesting you look into converting it to a front mount using say M5 SHCS's? picking up one of the current mounting holes.

Stuart

Hi Dean, done a chicken scratch mod to your drawing, utilising one of the holes for the chuck, and using 40NB pipe for the centre, ends of the pipe machined to fit the bored out plates, that way everything will be central to one another. Make the pipe long enough to fit your fingers, if anything like mine about 20 mm in between the plates. I think it would be easier to make from 2 plates as they can be counter sunk to attach chuck, drilling a small hole through to suit Allen key will make it easier to tighten, instead of cutting one down.
Happy to make it for you, if you are pushed for time.
Kryn

Found these images while scrolling through Glennview's site - http://www.glennview.com/tools.htm. This might be a more convenient and less fiddly version of a subplate if you are blessed with more X than me.

BTbig_2.jpgbig_4.jpgbig_3.jpgbig_5.jpg

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Would I be stoned for suggesting you look into converting it to a front mount using say M5 SHCS's? picking up one of the current mounting holes.

Stuart

Worth a serious look. Certainly a lot easier and neater than making a mounting plate... not to mention saving some precious Z..

Ray

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

The question is how to mount the chuck onto the rotary table. The table has 4, 8mm slots for clamping, with M6 studs. There is a central hole, but it is not tapered.

Dean

Make a sub plate for the rotary table..

Stuart,

I will keep it in mind in case my idea is a failure.

Kryn,

Made a very similar drawing at work yesterday. That is the way I am thinking. I also intend to see how narrow I can get the slots as all I have to do is slide an M6 nut in for the table mount. Finger tips, pointy nose pliers and a spanner should handle this. The main problem is getting the 1/4 20 bolts in and done up. This is where the mock up comes in. Thanks for the offer to make it, but you know the story about buying a dog and then barking yourself. The milling work really suits mounting in a tilting rotary table. I passed thru your neck of the woods last night. Came back thru Chain of Ponds. Saw the damage a bit, but it was getting dark. Had fun on the road tho. It is many years since I have had the chance without being told to "slow down". SWMBO cannot handle G forces.

Bob,

I don't recall that oft quoted figure for your z, but mine is supposed to have 450mm. I have doubts that I would need all that for a rotary table job, but I honestly have no idea. ime will tell.

The table is 100mm diam, but the chuck is 4.125" (104.78mm). The chuck has a 79.95mm diam, 2.5mm deep recess for registration. My thought is to make the sub plate 104.78mm diam and have a 100mm bore to register the table and a 79.95mm step to register the chuck. The disk I have may not be quite big enough to do all of this, but I can easily weld on a ring to form the step.

Time for sleep. Pity is was a woodworking item I went to pick up. I had better not discuss it. I will be asking BobL some questions tho.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Stuart,

I will keep it in mind in case my idea is a failure.

Kryn,

Made a very similar drawing at work yesterday. That is the way I am thinking. I also intend to see how narrow I can get the slots as all I have to do is slide an M6 nut in for the table mount. Finger tips, pointy nose pliers and a spanner should handle this. The main problem is getting the 1/4 20 bolts in and done up.
Dean

Hi Dean,
I take it that the 1/4 x 20 bolts are for the chuck? When making the chuck plate, counter sink them and use C/S bolts, will give more room and if bottom plate drilled to suit, could drill to drop C/S bolts through plus Allen key will line up to tighten. The table plate could be slotted to simplify fitting it, not trying to get 20mm long bolt in 10mm space.
Regards
Kryn