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21st January 2015, 05:12 PM #1
Mounting a Chuck on Rotary Table.
During the last H & F sale I weakened sufficiently to purchase a 100mm tilting rotary table. I have been thinking about a chuck to fit on it. Last night I happened to be standing next to the piston grinder I got from Harty, about the same time as I got the shaper. I realised it had a 100mm, 3 jaw chuck on it. May as well use it, at least for now. It will need a good clean up.
The question is how to mount the chuck onto the rotary table. The table has 4, 8mm slots for clamping, with M6 studs. There is a central hole, but it is not tapered.
Dean
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21st January 2015 05:12 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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21st January 2015, 05:54 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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By mounting it to the 4 slots .
Do you want someone to walk you through the steps.
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21st January 2015, 07:44 PM #3
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21st January 2015, 08:01 PM #4.
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Dean,
Given the chuck and table are the same diameter, you would need a subplate with a spigot that provides registration with the table's bore. The subplate would replace the chuck's backing plate. The subplate would be fixed to the table with recessed fixings and tee nuts then the chuck would be fixed to the subplate. Not overly convenient. Much easier if the rotary table is a larger diameter than the chuck.
Bob.
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21st January 2015, 09:02 PM #5
Convenience and registration were both on my mind. I could make a back plate 125mm diam and clamp from the overhanging edge back into the slots. This plate would be mounted permanently on the chuck and could have a 100mm registration recess turned in the rear.
I am not really keen on the idea of an overhanging back plate tho. This is a tilting table.
If the sub plate is attached to the table first, how could you fix the chuck to it?
Dean
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21st January 2015, 10:10 PM #6Philomath in training
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Chucks come with two sorts of fixings - mounting screws that go through a back plate and screw into the rear of the chuck and ones that go through the chuck and screw into the mounting plate. If you had a 100mm chuck with front mounting holes and a 3 T slot rotary table, all you would need to do would be make up some T nuts, get some long bolts and you would be set.
As it is it sounds like you have a rear mounting chuck and with a size for size RT, that could require more than a simple adaptor plate.
Michael
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21st January 2015, 10:41 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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You could make a plate approx 25 mm thick, with a square bottom U machined into the side approx 15mm high, and deep enough to access the chuck studs, both sides drilled to suit the chuck (for accessing the C/S/heads, that fasten the chuck to the plate), the other to suit your table with the holes offset so that the plate can be fastened to the table. The U cut out is for the fasteners, the T nuts will need short studs and nuts.
Doe's your chuck have 3 or 4 studs, your rotary table 3 or 4 T slots? If you want more details, can do a CAD drawing for you.
Regards
Kryn
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21st January 2015, 10:54 PM #8
I'm not at all clear on what Dean has got... maybe a picture would help. If you don't want to make a backing plate, just get a front mounting chuck. Done and dusted.
Ray
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21st January 2015, 11:02 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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I'm struggling without pictures also
My two bob's worth is about registration, with a 3 jaw chuck I'm not sure you want any. Of course it depends what you have an mind, but if you want to turn something then set it up spot on, the 3 jaw chuck might not get you "close enough".
Stuart
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22nd January 2015, 12:35 AM #10.
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22nd January 2015, 08:49 AM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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I have a 4 jaw 8" and a 3 jaw 7" mounted respectively to back plates. One chuck bolts from the front, the other from the rear, so it its case I used CSK bolts and had to get the holes aligned properly when I did the layout. No big deal.
In each case there's enough perimeter available to bolt down to a 10" RT so no dramas mounting them.
WRT the 3 jaw, I agree, often they're not good enough. Mine is a nice P-B but still has a bit of runout. Solution, make the mounting holes - there are 4 to match the T slots - slightly oversize, mount a bearing outer of the appropriate size in the chuck jaws, and tap for alignment using a DTI. Fiddly but works. For those more picky, making a 2 piece mounting adaptor with push screws would be a bit faster on setup. My way suits my simple purposes. If I want dead nuts accuracy I use the 4 jaw anyway, the only reason I made up the 3 jaw assembly was to machine radial grooves in a bunch of porthole castings and 0.002" runout is irrelevant.
If I had a chuck the same diameter as or bigger than the RT I'd make a 2 piece mounting plate.
PDW
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22nd January 2015, 02:49 PM #12
No pics at the moment. I will get a couple of quick ones tonight.
I have a 4 slot rotary table and the chuck is mounted from the rear of the backplate with 3 bolts.
I will remove the chuck as well. As far as I can tell the existing backplate is integral to the grinder's spindle so I will have to make a new one.
Another reminder of why I hate doing this on the phone. Arrrrr.
Dean
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22nd January 2015, 03:36 PM #13
I am starting to think skeletal. It is only a 100mm rotary table. I don't have a suitable bit of 25mm thick plate but I have some 10mm. Studs can pass thru the bottom plate. A gap between the 2 plates allows access to put on and do up the nuts. A stepped thru tube can allow the chuck mount bolts to pass thru both plates and gap. Stepped to maintain the gap between the plates. This tube can be welded at both ends. I may need to draw it.
Dean
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22nd January 2015, 04:35 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Dean, you could get away with 6-8 mm for the mounting plates with a piece of tube or pipe welded in between, would have the same effect as my reply.
Kryn
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22nd January 2015, 06:37 PM #15Philomath in training
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