Thread: Neat cutting oils

You will laugh . As I dont have a coolant system, I use the super crap auto pressure pack cans of degreaser as a cutting fluid. They have them on special now and then, a whole carton for a few bucks. It seems to work, I think its mineral based stuff. MIKE

Originally Posted by Bryan

Gavin, are you able to get that in small amounts? You use a small gravity system don't you? That seems the best way to try some products. I have a Fuchs dealer near me but it seems to be '20 litres or nothing'. It's a lot of oil - and money - if you don't like it. Fuchs list no less than 19 different neat cutting oils. There are even 4 Ratak esses. Which one is yours?

Bryan

I use the Ratak 40 S as it's suitable for ferrous and aluminium work. You are correct, the minimum quantity I could find was 20 litres, I get mine from Asteg on Torrrens Road.

As you say, 20 litres is a lot of oil and from memory it was around $140 which works out at $7 per litre but on the lathe I primarily use it when parting off and thread cutting so I'm not using it lavishly.

Also, I do a lot of work related to the kart side of things that I need to use oil for, I do a lot of 1" hole cutting for switch plates for starter motors I make for the sprint karts and machining bits for the Superkarts we make, lots of boring, drilling and reaming etc.

Previously for this type of work I used Rocol RTD or the Trefolex equivalent which I bought in 500 ml bottles at around $25+ per bottle. Now I use the Ratak for all this work as well so I'm paying $7 per litre whereas previously I was paying $50 per litre for the stuff in 500 ml bottles so for me it's a hell of a lot cheaper.

As you say, I use a gravity feed system, an old petrol tank from a stationary engine mounted above the splash back. The used oil drains down into a drum under the lathe and I filter the oil out from that drum and re-use it so I get at least 2 or 3 uses from each tank of oil.

So for my usage it works out a lot cheaper and more convenient this way. If you want to try the oil out, let me know next time you are going to be up my way and I'll decant a bit off for you to try.

Rgds - Gavin

Thanks Gavin, I might take you up on that.

Originally Posted by morrisman

You will laugh . As I dont have a coolant system, I use the super crap auto pressure pack cans of degreaser as a cutting fluid. They have them on special now and then, a whole carton for a few bucks. It seems to work, I think its mineral based stuff. MIKE

Mike just be a bit careful about using cleaners for purposes outside their intention. There is a rather spectacular effect with brake cleaner and welding. I'm not sure the exact chemical process involved in making the gas, but I've often read about just how deadly it is even in absolute minute quantities. Google more, but here's something to get you started
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmtkUxvACcY]Brake cleaner danger . . . deadly gas - YouTube[/ame]

While that's welding and brake cleaner, just the same, I'd be a little careful even with regular degreaser. Besides, it's not really designed as a lubricant and how expensive is something like Tapmagic!

Pete

Originally Posted by Pete F

Mike just be a bit careful about using cleaners for purposes outside their intention. There is a rather spectacular effect with brake cleaner and welding. I'm not sure the exact chemical process involved in making the gas, but I've often read about just how deadly it is even in absolute minute quantities. Google more, but here's something to get you started
Brake cleaner danger . . . deadly gas - YouTube

While that's welding and brake cleaner, just the same, I'd be a little careful even with regular degreaser. Besides, it's not really designed as a lubricant and how expensive is something like Tapmagic!

Pete

I hear you Pete. I think it's a form of distillate , a by-product maybe.Who really knows what this stuff does to us all. I can buy a detergent based degreaser , in 5 litres- haven't tried that yet but yes its likely it would be less harmful to ones health. I'm thinking outside of the square and being a cheapskate. I want to make a coolant system up using a windscreen washer pump , run it from a 12v supply or a gel cell battery , safer that way . The plan is to make a fly wire mesh screen to fit into the lathe tray , this will catch the swarth but let the coolant through where it can be circulated MIKE

Originally Posted by morrisman

I'm thinking outside of the square and being a cheapskate. I want to make a coolant system up using a windscreen washer pump , run it from a 12v supply or a gel cell battery , safer that way . The plan is to make a fly wire mesh screen to fit into the lathe tray , this will catch the swarth but let the coolant through where it can be circulated MIKE

An alternative to the windscreen washer pump (which has a limited duty cycle) is one of the smaller parts washers you can get from most auto-parts stores. I use one on my power hacksaw.

This saves having to rig up a coolant storage tank, sit it under the lathe and run the drain from the lathe into the top of the tank. On my saw I use one of the wife's old metal sieves to filter out the larger bits of metal, it sits on top of the tank, the drain feeds into that first. Anything that gets through that sits in the bottom of the tank and the pump pickup is about an inch or so from the bottom so it doesn't pick the crap up.

This is the type of thing I'm referring to, you can get them cheaper than this if you hunt around though A370 | machineryhouse.com.au

Mike, yes I'm pretty conscious of the smoke etc myself. I just thought I'd put that link up for everyone's benefit as I was quite shocked when I first read the story.

As far as coolant, I've seen small quantities of soluble oil available and understand some people simply mix this up and apply as Ray is doing. Not as good as a plumbed in system, but better than nothing and if you were using it at that rate 4 l would last forever. As mentioned I use Tapmagic and a small can lasts me for ages. I'm quite shocked actually as I'm often using it. Small tins aren't expensive. Like all oils it DOES smoke, but the manufacturers claim they have taken out the nasties and it should be designed for power tapping etc where heat could also be an issue.

Pete

Hi PeteF,

I've been trying Lanox as a cutting lubricant, and so far it's looking good. You get 5 Liters, for $35 or so, and a squirt bottle, but I'm upgrading to laboratory style wash bottles, the ones with a spout, seem to be a better choice than the spray pump type.

I don't want to sound like an ad for Lanox, but at least it's non toxic, and has good anti-corrosive properties. Still not sure about it's properties as a cutting lubricant, but so far so good...

The advantages over soluble oil is that it's not as messy to clean up. And doesn't run the risk of corrosion that the water based stuff might.

Here's the stuff I'm referring to http://www.inoxed.com/MX4.htm

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

I'm upgrading to laboratory style wash bottles, the ones with a spout, seem to be a better choice than the spray pump type.

Hi Ray, Do you mean squeeze bottles with a tude thats an up side down U? I've got some you can have but they are painful. I found I needed to remember to unprime them so they dont syphon and leave the lid loose so they don't "breathe" and empty themselves a little each day. You can alway shorten the tube and use them like a sauce bottle.

Stuart
p.s. Where do you get your lanox for $35?(the store locator doesnt seem to work). If you want a spray bottle that works, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260875454011 (check the other listings as there are two nozzle sizes, the nozzle isnt adjustable.)
Reilang R009-213 precision liquid sprayer

Referring back to my earlier post, here's pictures of my setups.

The lathe tank is an old JAP petrol tank with a hose down to a tap on the cross-slide (that way the loc-line hose stays fixed relative to the cutting tool as the slides are moved during the cut). The fans above the chuck are from an old computer cabinet and work well extracting any fumes away from the work.

The saw setup uses an el-cheapo small parts washer with the sieve "liberated" from the domestic management.


Attachment 186045Attachment 186046Attachment 186047

Originally Posted by RayG

You get 5 Liters, for $35 or so, ...

Where abouts Ray? I think I paid nearly $50 for the standard Inox at Bunnings.

Chris

From RayG's Lanox link:

"Can LANOX be used as a cutting lubricant.
Yes, tests conducted prior to it's release found that LANOX is an effective cutting, milling, tapping and thread cutting lubricant for a variety of metals.
It is especially effective on aluminum."

and:

"We have found that INOX may effect some of the more modern natural rubber products with continual long term use, LANOX doesn't have this effect."

Now they tell me! I've been spraying Inox all over my boat's inboard motor for years. Does that mean all the hoses are now buggered? Looks like I need some Lanox.

Originally Posted by jack620

Where abouts Ray? I think I paid nearly $50 for the standard Inox at Bunnings.

Chris

Hi Jack,

I got it from a local industrial supply place, "Ultimate Fasteners" but now you've got me wondering about the price? I got it with some other stuff, and I'm pretty sure that it was $35, but i'll check next time I'm back there.. either way, don't buy the spray cans, you pay through the neck for the spray cans, and they don't last.

Hi Stuart,

The bottles I am going to try are these... eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

Thanks for the tip about syphoning, I can see that would be a problem, what about if I cut the tube short so that it just sticks out of the top an inch or so?

Still, not as nice as the ones you linked to...

Regards
Ray

PS Found a youtube video of Ultimate Fasteners, the have a pretty good range of nuts and bolts as well.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IrbtruRizc]Ultimate Fasteners = Fastener & Industrial Supplies Specialists - YouTube[/ame]

Seems like everyone has a video these days

[QUOTE=Gavin Newman;1393976]Referring back to my earlier post, here's pictures of my setups.

The lathe tank is an old JAP petrol tank with a hose down to a tap on the cross-slide (that way the loc-line hose stays fixed relative to the cutting tool as the slides are moved during the cut). The fans above the chuck are from an old computer cabinet and work well extracting any fumes away from the work.

The saw setup uses an el-cheapo small parts washer with the sieve "liberated" from the domestic management.


Gavin, So it is a gravity feed from the JAP tank down to the outlet nozzle ..where and how does the coolant return to the JAP tank? MIKE I like the Lanox idea as its harmless to use and is a rust preventative too ......But would it be effective at removing the 'heat' from the tool and workpiece?