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  1. #1
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    Default newbie question re AL-960 vs AL-960B lathes and documents

    Hello there from a returning casual lathe user.

    I have just purchased an AL-960 HAFCO lathe. (Its manufacture stamp is 1986.) Note it is NOT the AL-960B.

    I’m not sure what the difference is between AL-960 and AL-960B but I can only imagine AL-960 was the original (imperial?) version as AL-960B seems to always be referred to in metric speak.

    Question 1, could anyone assist with a user manual or parts list for the AL-960 (not B) could you please contact me or point me to a site as Hare and Forbes could not help?

    Question 2, I see an endless amount of comments regarding pick up points and bed misalignment however I don’t see any mention of how Befuddled could establish what the misalignment might be or how to set something up to check/measure the inaccuracy of this old girl. Replies such as 'use an RDO' could be deemed unhelpful.
    So, any helpers there to either sites or documentation describing ‘how to’?

    Cheers, Peter

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  3. #2
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    Hi Peter,

    Welcome
    We have a rule... pictures or it didnt happen. Otherwise were left guessing what you have.
    The AL-960B has both met and imp graduations but an imp leadscrew. No idea what yours will have but the leadscrew is the only thing that really matters. You should be able to tell which you have by looking at the threading chart..or you can always measure it.

    I think must would agree Grizzly has the best manuals, though someone here will likely be able to get you a copy of the Hare and Forbes manual(for what its worth)

    I think this is pretty much the same lathe.
    http://www.grizzly.com/products/Guns...h-Stand/G4003G

    Do you have a machine level?

    Stuart

    p.s. First person to mention RDM gets their fingers jammed in a door

  4. #3
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    Default AL-960 pics

    Thanks Stuart,
    pics attached of same model AL-960 lathe sold recently at Emu Planes/Cranebrook,NSW.

    Mine is from Wollongong, NSW. The one in the pics is slightly less used than mine.
    Not sure what a machine level is so figure I dont have one.
    I do have a number of spirit levels of varying lengths and styles. (magnetic and non magnetic)

    Cheers, Peter

    $_58 (2).JPG$_58.JPG

  5. #4
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    The original al960 had a no 2 morse taper tailstock. Sometime in the 90's they made it no3, that is the difference if I remember correctly the explanation from a H+F dude I was talking to years ago.

    Garry

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by befuddled View Post
    I do have a number of spirit levels of varying lengths and styles. (magnetic and non magnetic)
    Do any of the levels have a spec on them? something 0.1mm/m or better would be good.

    Buying machines is a great way to spend more money

    Stuart

  7. #6
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    Na, these are just crappy bubble levels with no accuracy readings.

    I have looked at the Grizzly style devices and will probably go that way but I suspect that will give me 'bed parallel with ground' or something rather than how I check for misalignment along the bed. (and rectify it if it has a banana in it)

    Cheers, Peter

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by befuddled View Post
    but I suspect that will give me 'bed parallel with ground'
    Nothing wrong with starting with "Bed parallel to the ground", then you can move on from there.

    OR

    You could assume all pretty close and your turning skills are pretty good. Bolt it down and use the two collar method(pretty much RDM) to tweak it. This will make it cut parallel.... but if all isnt pretty close or your turning skills arent so hot. you'll be twisting the bed to do it.

    Stuart

    off to jam my fingers in a door

  9. #8
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Rdm? Rdm? Arrrrrgh! Stu I hope you jamb those fingers real hard

    Peter, rdm is roleys dads method. Do some searching and you should find some rather colorful discussions.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Rdm? Rdm? Arrrrrgh! Stu I hope you jamb those fingers real hard
    Yes I cant believe I was the one that brought it up
    I do hate it as first port of call.
    But not all of us want to spend $150 on a level.........

    Stuart

  11. #10
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    Welcome Befuddled. That looks like a nice lathe. I would not get too uptight about precise setup just yet, unless you are having problems. I would just use wedges or shims underneath to make it stable and start turning. If you find that it's turning tapered instead of straight, then it's time to do some reading.

    In brief, you want to make sure the bed is not twisted. The correct tool for this is a precision level. It will allow you to compare the 'attitude' of the unworn sections at each end of the bed. True level doesn't matter. If you still have taper after twist is eliminated you need to look at other possibilities, like bed wear or headstock misalignment.

    To learn more, click on the search button near the top of the main page on this forum and type in 'lathe leveling'. You could also try similar search terms on other forums or on google.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #11
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    looks like I best research 'lathe leveling' and Roleys Dads Method


    Cheers, Peter

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    Quote Originally Posted by befuddled View Post
    looks like I best research 'lathe leveling' and Roleys Dads Method


    Cheers, Peter
    If you narrow down your "sunny australia" location to something more specific you may find someone nearby who can help with a level.

  14. #13
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    ah sunny Australia is 'cause I read the http not the web page and naively thought with such high membership the group would (wood) be US not Oz. Oh well, stupid is as stupid does.

    I actually reside in the pristine Upper West Side of Horsley NSW 2530 if anyone from the 'Gong reads this and has a suitable level.

    Option 2 is I'm off to LA tomorrow and could probably pick up something while over there. (apart from my 150lb of motorcycle junk)

    Cheers, Peter

  15. #14
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    RDM Isn't going to answer Question 2.

    As you say, surely there will be some where in LA to pick up a level... or ebay even.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    RDM Isn't going to answer Question 2.
    Do you mean this one?

    Quote Originally Posted by befuddled View Post
    Question 2, I see an endless amount of comments regarding pick up points and bed misalignment however I don’t see any mention of how Befuddled could establish what the misalignment might be or how to set something up to check/measure the inaccuracy of this old girl. Replies such as 'use an RDO' could be deemed unhelpful.
    If so a simple test cut should suffice? Chuck a piece of bar, large enough to be self-supporting for, well the longer the better, but say 8 or 10 inches. Take a light cut along its length using a sharp tool and a fine feed. Measure the diameter with a micrometer at various points, eg every 25mm. Write down the results. Better yet, graph them. This can be the baseline for future reference. See also 'two collar method' (search term).

    PS: Of course, this won't identify the source of any error, but it will tell you what the lathe is actually doing, which is worth knowing. It might be cutting perfectly straight, in which case you can leave it alone.

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