Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 28
-
15th April 2014, 10:50 AM #1Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Location
- Sunny Australia
- Posts
- 21
newbie question re AL-960 vs AL-960B lathes and documents
Hello there from a returning casual lathe user.
I have just purchased an AL-960 HAFCO lathe. (Its manufacture stamp is 1986.) Note it is NOT the AL-960B.
I’m not sure what the difference is between AL-960 and AL-960B but I can only imagine AL-960 was the original (imperial?) version as AL-960B seems to always be referred to in metric speak.
Question 1, could anyone assist with a user manual or parts list for the AL-960 (not B) could you please contact me or point me to a site as Hare and Forbes could not help?
Question 2, I see an endless amount of comments regarding pick up points and bed misalignment however I don’t see any mention of how Befuddled could establish what the misalignment might be or how to set something up to check/measure the inaccuracy of this old girl. Replies such as 'use an RDO' could be deemed unhelpful.
So, any helpers there to either sites or documentation describing ‘how to’?
Cheers, Peter
-
15th April 2014 10:50 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
15th April 2014, 12:48 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
Hi Peter,
Welcome
We have a rule... pictures or it didnt happen. Otherwise were left guessing what you have.
The AL-960B has both met and imp graduations but an imp leadscrew. No idea what yours will have but the leadscrew is the only thing that really matters. You should be able to tell which you have by looking at the threading chart..or you can always measure it.
I think must would agree Grizzly has the best manuals, though someone here will likely be able to get you a copy of the Hare and Forbes manual(for what its worth)
I think this is pretty much the same lathe.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Guns...h-Stand/G4003G
Do you have a machine level?
Stuart
p.s. First person to mention RDM gets their fingers jammed in a door
-
15th April 2014, 01:48 PM #3Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Location
- Sunny Australia
- Posts
- 21
AL-960 pics
Thanks Stuart,
pics attached of same model AL-960 lathe sold recently at Emu Planes/Cranebrook,NSW.
Mine is from Wollongong, NSW. The one in the pics is slightly less used than mine.
Not sure what a machine level is so figure I dont have one.
I do have a number of spirit levels of varying lengths and styles. (magnetic and non magnetic)
Cheers, Peter
$_58 (2).JPG$_58.JPG
-
15th April 2014, 02:36 PM #4Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- queensland
- Posts
- 83
The original al960 had a no 2 morse taper tailstock. Sometime in the 90's they made it no3, that is the difference if I remember correctly the explanation from a H+F dude I was talking to years ago.
Garry
-
15th April 2014, 09:04 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
-
15th April 2014, 10:09 PM #6Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Location
- Sunny Australia
- Posts
- 21
Na, these are just crappy bubble levels with no accuracy readings.
I have looked at the Grizzly style devices and will probably go that way but I suspect that will give me 'bed parallel with ground' or something rather than how I check for misalignment along the bed. (and rectify it if it has a banana in it)
Cheers, Peter
-
15th April 2014, 10:29 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
Nothing wrong with starting with "Bed parallel to the ground", then you can move on from there.
OR
You could assume all pretty close and your turning skills are pretty good. Bolt it down and use the two collar method(pretty much RDM) to tweak it. This will make it cut parallel.... but if all isnt pretty close or your turning skills arent so hot. you'll be twisting the bed to do it.
Stuart
off to jam my fingers in a door
-
15th April 2014, 10:55 PM #8
Rdm? Rdm? Arrrrrgh! Stu I hope you jamb those fingers real hard
Peter, rdm is roleys dads method. Do some searching and you should find some rather colorful discussions.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
-
15th April 2014, 11:07 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
-
16th April 2014, 05:09 AM #10Distracted Member
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- Lower Lakes SA
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 2,557
Welcome Befuddled. That looks like a nice lathe. I would not get too uptight about precise setup just yet, unless you are having problems. I would just use wedges or shims underneath to make it stable and start turning. If you find that it's turning tapered instead of straight, then it's time to do some reading.
In brief, you want to make sure the bed is not twisted. The correct tool for this is a precision level. It will allow you to compare the 'attitude' of the unworn sections at each end of the bed. True level doesn't matter. If you still have taper after twist is eliminated you need to look at other possibilities, like bed wear or headstock misalignment.
To learn more, click on the search button near the top of the main page on this forum and type in 'lathe leveling'. You could also try similar search terms on other forums or on google.
-
16th April 2014, 02:50 PM #11Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Location
- Sunny Australia
- Posts
- 21
looks like I best research 'lathe leveling' and Roleys Dads Method
Cheers, Peter
-
16th April 2014, 03:12 PM #12
-
17th April 2014, 10:43 AM #13Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Location
- Sunny Australia
- Posts
- 21
ah sunny Australia is 'cause I read the http not the web page and naively thought with such high membership the group would (wood) be US not Oz. Oh well, stupid is as stupid does.
I actually reside in the pristine Upper West Side of Horsley NSW 2530 if anyone from the 'Gong reads this and has a suitable level.
Option 2 is I'm off to LA tomorrow and could probably pick up something while over there. (apart from my 150lb of motorcycle junk)
Cheers, Peter
-
17th April 2014, 07:47 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
RDM Isn't going to answer Question 2.
As you say, surely there will be some where in LA to pick up a level... or ebay even.
-
17th April 2014, 08:53 PM #15Distracted Member
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- Lower Lakes SA
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 2,557
Do you mean this one?
If so a simple test cut should suffice? Chuck a piece of bar, large enough to be self-supporting for, well the longer the better, but say 8 or 10 inches. Take a light cut along its length using a sharp tool and a fine feed. Measure the diameter with a micrometer at various points, eg every 25mm. Write down the results. Better yet, graph them. This can be the baseline for future reference. See also 'two collar method' (search term).
PS: Of course, this won't identify the source of any error, but it will tell you what the lathe is actually doing, which is worth knowing. It might be cutting perfectly straight, in which case you can leave it alone.
Similar Threads
-
Newbie with a question..
By StuBerger in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 6Last Post: 15th December 2013, 08:09 AM -
Newbie Question
By cava in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 21Last Post: 18th December 2010, 04:23 AM -
Newbie Question
By BALDAGGIO in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 4Last Post: 2nd July 2008, 08:34 PM -
another newbie question
By dmassey31 in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNINGReplies: 6Last Post: 30th October 2006, 11:41 PM -
Newbie Question
By smidsy in forum FINISHINGReplies: 4Last Post: 18th June 2004, 11:17 AM