Thread: Novice using Douglas Shaper

Hi,

Thanks for the replies.

I use plenty of oil both my machines. The previous owner put plenty where it counted (gears and threads) but not much anywhere else. I am thinking of using bar oil on the slide ways, any comments?

With the vice, that was me getting carried away and forgetting basics.

I'm still having problems setting the ram stroke to exact perimeters but am getting there. I was trying for to set the stroke approx an 1 inch either side, I thought I read it in the Fitting and Machining text book but now I can't find it. Did however receive my copy of How to Run a Shaping Machine by South Bend Lathe Works (for a 7" Shaper), it states exactly what Phil said: 1/2" before work and 1/4" after work piece.

I will keep at it.

Thanks Ben.

p.s. I guess you could call me a mature aged apprentice.

Whats the viscosity of the bar oil.

Hi Ewan,

"If you leadscrew is 8 tpi then one turn gives you 125 thou advance, so divide 125 by the number of graduations and you have your feed per mark."

Thanks for that Ewan, I nearly posted a thread showing how dense I can be! I'm not to good using imperial measurements.

I do want to confirm:

I counted 85 divisions, so that means .0015" per division or 0.0381mm?

Cheers Ben

Originally Posted by bwal74

Hi Ewan,

"If you leadscrew is 8 tpi then one turn gives you 125 thou advance, so divide 125 by the number of graduations and you have your feed per mark."

Thanks for that Ewan, I nearly posted a thread showing how dense I can be! I'm not to good using imperial measurements.

I do want to confirm:

I counted 85 divisions, so that means .0015" per division or 0.0381mm?

Cheers Ben

That sounds right, although its really 1.4705........thou per graduation, which seems a bit odd. If i had made the collar i would have had 125 graduations, or 127 to give you .025mm per grad. Have you checked the feed with a dial gauge to be sure?

Ewan

I have a few observations with your shaper and set-up.

What the other blokes said about stroke length is right, the extra space at the beginning of the stroke is to ensure that the clapper block is fully seated at the start of the cut.

Try to keep the length of the tool being held in the tool holder a short as practical to achieve maximum rigidity of the tool. It appears to be a little too far out in your image of the whole shaper. This will help alleviate chatter.

Set the feed mechanism so that it feeds at the end of the cutting stroke (if possible with your shaper). By doing it this way, it will not have a detrimental effect on the finish, as the heal of the tool will be dragging over material that is yet to be machined.

Originally Posted by bwal74

Hi Ewan,

"If you leadscrew is 8 tpi then one turn gives you 125 thou advance, so divide 125 by the number of graduations and you have your feed per mark."

Thanks for that Ewan, I nearly posted a thread showing how dense I can be! I'm not to good using imperial measurements.

I do want to confirm:

I counted 85 divisions, so that means .0015" per division or 0.0381mm?

Cheers Ben

Hi Ewan and Ben,
The downfeed screw for the tool on the Douglas is 1/2" whitworth as standard which is approximately 0.083". This would explain why the graduated collar has 85 divisions. Maybe they thought 85 was close enough. Each division then becomes equal to approximately 0.000980" which is close enough to damn to 1 thou. Still, not exactly though.

Phil

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

Hi Ewan and Ben,
The downfeed screw for the tool on the Douglas is 1/2" whitworth as standard which is approximately 0.083". This would explain why the graduated collar has 85 divisions. Maybe they thought 85 was close enough. Each division then becomes equal to approximately 0.000980" which is close enough to damn to 1 thou. Still, not exactly though.

Phil

It struck me a strange pitch to use when Douglas could have used something more practical. Which is why I replaced my screw - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/do...ations-129407/

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

It struck me a strange pitch to use when Douglas could have used something more practical. Which is why I replaced my screw - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/do...ations-129407/

BT

That reminds me BT, I must begin that conversion. It certainly would make life easier.

Phil

Hi,

Thanks for the info. After I've done my chores, I'll get to playing on my toys.

I'll attempt to measure downfeed with my dial indicator.

My chainsaw bar oil has no SAE rating on it, just say premium grade.

Cheers Ben

Do a check for oil viscosity or any thing else which may give an indication.
You may find that it is too thick and wont flow freely.
Not trying to dumb it down by not letting you try and find the info but a light oil would be better.
An hydraulic in 46 or 68.

Hi,

Pipeclay, the bar oil flows well but is quite sticky. I've been using on my Hercus lathe bed and gears, goes well. I'll try it for awhile on the shaper.

Ewan and Phil, thanks for the help re the down feed. From the testing I did today, I think Phil is right. I set up a dial indicator and took some cuts.

On a 5 division cut, it took 0.13mm (rounded up), 20 div cut - 0.45mm, and one full rotation of the dial (85 divs) 2.20mm.

Its not exact but its a old machine and I'm probably not using it correctly yet.

I'm constantly adjusting my tool piece, I still like it a bit long at the moment, don't want to crash the ram onto the work piece.

Still having fun.

Ben

Hi,

Been playing around on the shaper, I was going to try and take a angled cut but wasn't able to move the tool head much.

I loosened the bolt at the end of the ram, which did loosen the tool head some (able to move it about 5 degrees either way) but that was about it. After tried again this time using abit more force and was able to move it about 10 degrees one was and 15 degrees the other way, though it felt like I'd do damage with any more force applied.

Any suggestions?

Cheers Ben

Off with its head. Meaning take it apart.

Edit: I just looked at your pics and remembered Douglases have an unusual system. An expert will be along to advise you shortly.

Ben that is actually an eccentric pin that bends easily I made a new one. It will, with persistence just pull out when loose

Phil