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Thread: T nut issues

  1. #31
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    We use the bms at work as we have shafts the full 6 metre length we cut keyways in and fit sprockets and bearings to so we need the size.

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  3. #32
    Dave J Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Talking about finishes, have you ever seen the plastic powder used to coat steel handles? Is it still about and cheap?
    Stuart
    I think I know the stuff,
    I used that stuff at school and have been on the lookout ever since. We coated hammer handles with it, they had a bag of powder you dipped your red hot part in and it was a soft plastic coating.

    Old fella,
    It is great for that type of job, my stock is too rusty for that purpose now. It's hard to keep in the shed for years without getting a coat of rust, I usually buy a bit when I need it.
    Do they let you take the off cuts home from work?

    Dave

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    I think I know the stuff,
    I used that stuff at school and have been on the lookout ever since. We coated hammer handles with it, they had a bag of powder you dipped your red hot part in and it was a soft plastic coating.
    Dave
    We had a box with holes in the bottom and air blowing through to "fluidize" the powder(I think). I've had a look around and will make a few calls.
    Stuart

  5. #34
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    What about that shrink stuff electricians use it might work for what u want done and looks pretty neat. The off cuts we usually use to machine pins etc out of or smaller shaft, the bms is good for three jaw chucks not having to worry about damaging your chuck with the black as it usually is out of round and not ment to be used in the 3 jaw

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_fella View Post
    , the bms is good for three jaw chucks not having to worry about damaging your chuck with the black as it usually is out of round and not ment to be used in the 3 jaw
    I've heard this before and seen it in books, but I'm not sure it makes sense. Sure you need BMS if you are using collet chucks or a 4 jaw self centering chuck. But for a three jaw? Not saying its wrong, but that I don't understand how it could damage the scroll.
    Stuart

  7. #36
    Dave J Guest

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    I have the heat shrink tube here but it's not much good for that sort of thing as it is cheap stuff. I suppose if you sprayed the part with glue first it might work.

    With the black round bar it will balance itself out between the 3 jaws, being higher or lower at the front or back of each the jaws wont do it much good though. I haven't got a high precision 3 jaw, only the Chinese one that came with the machine, so i am not to worried about the chuck. If I do something precision I use the 4 jaw as I wouldn't trust the 3 jaw even if it was new.
    I have been looking out for a Bison 6 jaw and that's when you have real problems with out of round stock.because it wont equal itself out and will stuff up an expensive chuck.

    Dave

  8. #37
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    Fired up the BBQ today, here's the result. Good idea Dave

    One advantage I have noticed of the huge nuts is that they should stop swarf falling into the Tslot of the swivel base.
    The only thing I might change, counter bore the top of the nut 1mm deep. bore a couple of 6mm holes for some little magnets and make a 1mm thick disc to go on top. Just to stop swarf filling up the thread in the nut.

    Stuart

  9. #38
    Dave J Guest

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    Hi Stuart,
    They came up good and that will help stop the rust in the future.I need to make some for my vises.
    It might be the picture but they don't look shiny black, did you let them cool in the oil? Or did you reheat them after the oil dipping?
    I find they get a glossy look if you heat them red hot dip them, reheat, dip them again and let them cool in the oil until the bubbles stop, then just let them hang somewhere for the oil drip off while it's fully cooling.

    It might be an idea to keep a look out for a cheap primus propane torch to run off the BBQ cylinder for future projects. I have done a few bits on the BBQ and it seems to take forever to get it red hot all over.

    Instead of the covers you could shorten the T nut bolts a little and put a bit of thread in the top of the nut with a bit of super glue or lock tight to hold it. I cant see you having any problems the way it is because chips in their wont interfere with undoing the nut.

    Dave

  10. #39
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    Hi Dave
    I only dipped them once and let them cool in the oil. I had a memory of it not working out well if you tried to dip twice, although that was years ago with teenagers using oxy/acetyl. I'll try the double dip next time.

    I have a primus torch but am yet to get the fitting to connect it to a bottle.

    I didn't want to screw anything into the nut as I wanted to be sure the stud couldn't bottom in the nut and make it felt tight.

    Stuart

  11. #40
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    Oh and I think the flash makes them look worse then they are.

  12. #41
    Dave J Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Oh and I think the flash makes them look worse then they are.
    That will do it.

    Dave

  13. #42
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    I liked them shiny.......

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