Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 27
Thread: Oil seal groove
-
9th April 2012, 06:28 PM #1Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Strathfieldsaye
- Posts
- 20
Oil seal groove
My vertical ISO40 spindle in my Novar milling machine has been progressively getting hotter in the past few weeks. It normally runs hot anyway as both bearings are in an oil bath. I measured the radial slop today and found it to be 0.05mm, so thought the preload may have shifted. I pulled the spindle out and the bearings look fine, but there is a 3mm wide smooth groove in the spindle where the oil seal sat. The oil seal lip feels very stiff. I can still get the seal (was a KOK 88x110x12) from SKF, their part number 34623. What should I do about the groove as I assume the new seal won't want to sit in it?
Cheers Phil.
-
9th April 2012 06:28 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
9th April 2012, 06:36 PM #2Dave J Guest
Not sure I understand your asking? You did say the seal was available, is it a different size or shape.
Dave
-
9th April 2012, 06:43 PM #3Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Strathfieldsaye
- Posts
- 20
Hi Dave,
The old seal has cut/worn the groove. It shouldn't be there.
-
9th April 2012, 06:52 PM #4Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Townsville
- Posts
- 28
We use "speedi-sleeves" in industrial situations as a temporary (or semi-permanent ) repair for seal wear on shafts all the time.
-
9th April 2012, 06:55 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 244
If you want a speedi sleave to be permanent I'd use Loctite to keep it in place.
There are plenty of old Holden and Ford engines running them on the front crank seal to good effect.
-
9th April 2012, 06:59 PM #6
I would consider welding the groove up and machining it back to the original dimensions.
No matter how hard you try you will never get a good seal the way it is now.
MattWarning Disclaimer
-
9th April 2012, 07:19 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Location
- Melbourne Australia
- Posts
- 1,128
If it was me, I’d send it too Brenco or United Surface Technologies, and have them prep it, and have it HVOF metal sprayed with ceramic. It will last forever, and run cooler. That seal will be half the problem with heat. A seal running on ceramic runs cooler, as its so hard and slippery.
That wouldn’t be cheap. $600 would be my guess. Wagma Engineering could do it also, they might be cheaper. All of those companies can grind it. It needs finishing with Diamond wheels.
The other thing you could do is try a different seal, A thinner or thicker one, 88 x 110 come in 10mm and 13mm thick versions also. You might find the lip will run on a fresh section of the journal.
Phil.
-
9th April 2012, 08:21 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Location
- Mallacoota,VIC,Australia
- Age
- 53
- Posts
- 656
HI,
I would suggest either Welding and Machining back to size. Using a Speedi Sleeve, because it is only a narrow Groove You may have to machine a small area for the Sleeve to go onto. What Machtool was saying about using a Thicker or Thinner Seal, there is also different Styles of Seals that might work better depending on the style of Your existing Seal.All The Best steran50 Stewart
The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.
-
9th April 2012, 08:31 PM #9Pink 10EE owner
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 4,304
I would not put any welding type heat near it, will distort the spindle....
Just a far out there thought.... What about making up a labyrinth type seal... It will not seal it totally, but will slow down the grease from running out..
The likes of the bridgeport has no seal for it's spindle bearings...Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
-
9th April 2012, 09:39 PM #10
If it was my spindle, firstly I'd measure a new seal and check if the lip runs in EXACTLY the same relative position to the faces. If it doesn't just install it, since it isn't going to run int the greeve.
If the new lip IS in the same position, I'd try another brand and check that.
If they are all in the same position, I'd make a thin washer/spacer to go into the bottom of the seal rebate and fit the seal - again, so that the new lip runs next to the old groove.
ALternatively, you may be able to get the inner seal with the same ID and OD, so once spaced it doesn't sit out at all.
A few options there.
I wouldn't sleeve, spray or weld anything untill all the other options are exhausted.
Cheers,
Joe
-
9th April 2012, 09:51 PM #11Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 3,149
I'm agreeing with Joe at the moment. Looking at the pictures you've attached I can't see anything that is going to be an absolute disaster for a seal. I'd mount the spindle in a lathe if you can and polish the sealing surface with some fine emery or wet & dry to ensure that there are no rough spots or burrs but other than that think a new seal should do the job.
Michael
-
9th April 2012, 10:30 PM #12Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Strathfieldsaye
- Posts
- 20
Thanks for your help guys. I think I'll try another couple of seals first and see how it goes. Be interesting to compare the stiffness of the new against the old.
Joe, are you the Joe I had a long discussion with at the Model Engineering Exhibition in Bendigo last year about optical interferometry?
Cheers Phil.
-
9th April 2012, 10:49 PM #13
Hi Phil, yes, that's me! I haven't fogotten our conversation, just your name
I must apologise for not reading all the replies you had before I posted: Phile (Machtool) had already said the same thing about letting a new seal run in a different spot - or using a different width!
The mention of $600 ceramic coating and diamond grinding probably made me skip the rest of the reply.... Sorry Phil F!
I suggest you go to Bendigo Bearings with your old seal and get them to bring out all the different brands and widths they have in stock - or order what they don;t have. They are always very helpful. Ih, and they stock the SpeediSleeves as well.... should you want to go that way.
Cheers,
Joe
-
11th April 2012, 11:21 PM #14
Speedie Sleeve from any good bearing service---cheap easy to install and works a treat
nuf saidThere was never a time when I did not exist, nor you. Nor will there be any future in which we shall cease to be
-
12th April 2012, 01:09 AM #15SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- N.W.Tasmania
- Posts
- 703
If you do use a Speedi-sleeve, I have in the past been told, and have followed the advice, to clean the grooved area thoroughly and fill the depression with epoxy. Then sand it back to size with emery, and fit the sleeve. From what I was told the sleeves are so thin that the sleeve can conform to the underlying groove, if you don't fill the void before fitting the sleeve. I have never tried it without following this procedure so can't say for sure that you have to do it, but that is what I would do if other seals, or adjusting seal position can't get you some clean shaft for a seal surface. Good luck,
Rob
Similar Threads
-
The Grey Seal Huon Seal
By dopeydriver in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRINGReplies: 429Last Post: 21st April 2012, 12:31 AM -
to seal or not to seal? timber window frames prior to puttying
By bljones in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 2Last Post: 20th May 2009, 10:52 PM -
japan black- to seal or not to seal?
By thelloydr in forum FINISHINGReplies: 1Last Post: 5th March 2008, 10:34 PM