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  1. #16
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Those cermets are my size Ew but my Hercus isn't some beefy, big horsepower beast. Do you reckon ..... xxxx it !, I just watched Ray's clip https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...27#post1744627 . Hit the go button on a box of ten.

    If the little Hercus hasn't enough puff and rigidity, the 13 has, so it won't be 44 bucks wasted.

    BT
    The cermet coating is super slippery Bob, and will finish well at small DOC's and feed rates if the surface speed is up. You may need all the AR can give you though on dia's under 25mm. The C10's top feed in open gear is .0025" per rev and i can still get a fantastic finish. For some reason my machine has a lower feed ratio than most C10's . As you say they are cheap too!
    I have some inserts from Peter (thorens) to play around with but have not got to it yet.

    Ew

    Sorry for the hijack Greg.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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  3. #17
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    [QUOTE=Ueee

    Sorry for the hijack Greg.[/QUOTE]

    My apologies too Greg.

    BT

  4. #18
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    Nothing to apologise for fellas, a forum is about sharing knowledge with others, not claiming ownership of it.
    I came across those cermet tips about a month after I bought the ones I mentioned earlier, buggrit.
    I'm planning on giving them a crack when I need some for my boring bars.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  5. #19
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    Default Thanks Greg.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    The cermet coating is super slippery Bob, and will finish well at small DOC's and feed rates if the surface speed is up. You may need all the AR can give you though on dia's under 25mm. The C10's top feed in open gear is .0025" per rev and i can still get a fantastic finish. For some reason my machine has a lower feed ratio than most C10's . As you say they are cheap too!
    I have some inserts from Peter (thorens) to play around with but have not got to it yet.

    Ew

    Sorry for the hijack Greg.
    Ew,

    I can wring about 2650 rpm out of the AR but the spindle bearings become uncomfortably hot. With the pulley setup I run usually, the top speed is 1200 rpm. A heavy cut and swift feed results in a nice finish but the HPs produce a continuous strand of swarf, real nasty when turning 4140. Ray's video of Josh at work shows the swarf coming off in manageable short chips.

    Can't wait to try the cermets.

    BT

  6. #20
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    Default UPA 4 Mo.4 xM14 Shank replacement

    Hi to all Im new member here ) my name Ilia I'm for Dorset, UK!

    This is old but nicely working on all 12 speeds ) UPA4 the only issue I have is the shank, want to be able set this in ATC BT40 spindle.
    At the moment head have INT40 taper with is the same size taper but have tail instead of pull stud for ATC.
    I wonder if anyone have idea how to take this shank of the head ?
    I have read manuals but can't seems to see the hex head in the hole through the shank ( pic attached). Tried, head on approach,to unscrew the tail no luck ( before you ask this definitely removable tail been marked as Cincinnati milling machines Co. made in US )
    Any help would be appreciated
    Thanks in advance
    Overhauling a Wohlhaupter UPA-4-fullsizerender-06-jpgOverhauling a Wohlhaupter UPA-4-fullsizerender-03-jpgOverhauling a Wohlhaupter UPA-4-fullsizerender-04-jpgOverhauling a Wohlhaupter UPA-4-fullsizerender-05-jpg
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  7. #21
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    G'day Ilia and welcome to the forum.
    Looking at your first photo it's a bit hard to tell what's going on down there, it looks like the differential threaded stud is either missing or has been butchered in some way.
    I suspect that as your shank is a Cincinatti it has probably been modified and attached using some non standard method as I doubt Cincinatti made shanks to fit Wohlhaupter boring heads.
    It may have been shrunk on so heating it before trying to remove or unscrew it might be worth a try but failing that I fear your only option might be to machine it down until you can see what's going on or it can be removed.
    Sorry if this isn't much help.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  8. #22
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    Greg
    Thanks for input.
    Cincinnati tail does indeed look a bit modified and definitely not match to the head.
    Before getting at it and machine down this tail I wander if there access to this area from slide side? Meaning id head dismembered and slide taken off there my be hole with locking screw?
    BTW I cannot download your Overhaul pdf
    server says : coolfox, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:
    1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
    2. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.

    ???
    Thanks

  9. #23
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    Downloads and photos are only available when you are logged in. New accounts have restrictions on them (especially regarding sending emails to members) and this may affect the ability to download. It should lift shortly - contact a moderator if you still have the problem in a few days as they should be able to either help or explain when you will be able to down load.

    I have an older Wohlhaupter and if you look here https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...87#post1406787 there are a few photos - one of them might give you some hints?

    Michael

  10. #24
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    Manage to download and read throughout Greg's UPA 4 Overhaul manual )) epic wright !
    I can see theres no access no hole through to the underneath of tail ( (my hopes a shuttered)
    Had another with the hex through tail - no luck
    I have last option is to re machine the end of INT40 to take pull stud. Question how to hold the thingy in the lathe? Could make collar and glue it on taper, turn it trough and support with fixed steady while working on the end of this tail?

  11. #25
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    G'day Ilia,
    I have no experience with ATC type drawbars but I'm guessing the tail of the NT40 shank either wont fit into the spindle or the extra length will make the pull stud sit too high for the draw bar to work?
    Cutting a thread onto the end of your shank might be an option it just depends on how deep the hardening goes.
    Making up a collar for the taper to run in a steady sounds like a pretty good idea.
    Let us know how it goes as this sounds like an interesting project.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

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