Thread: Painting machines

Originally Posted by .RC.

It will not shift paint will it?

i seemed to have left a f out

A sand blaster with 40 grit garnet does a good job of shifting old paint.

You *were* going to re-scrape all the ways anyway, right?

I'm going to give that bloke in Derwent Park your contact details, incidentally, in revenge for telling me about that machine..... probably go & take a look at it later this week, get some pix for you.

PDW

Check out this jam job,

Metal Centre Lathe Bobcats Excavators Tractors Loaders Backhoes | eBay

mmmm Taubmans Nullabor Sunset / T12 22.H2 / #e7512a Hex Color Code Schemes, Charts, Palettes, Paints & RGB / CMYK / HSL Conversion

Do not know what it actually looks like in reality, I know it will be a lot different to what my screen shows..

Originally Posted by achjimmy

What was the significance of red in the head stocks and bed webbing on lathes? Iirc it was a"special" paint as well? Even older automotive gearboxes used to be painted red inside.

Hi,

The red paint is Glyptal, originally developed for the insulation of electrical coils. It is considered oil proof. The idea is that it seals the surface and promotes oil run off (in a gearbox or engine, back to a sump).

Glyptal is still available from PPC here in Aus. Now, if anyone can tell me what is the white paint used within machine gearboxes, etc, I would be most grateful (ie, the white equivalent of the red Glyptal).

K.

Well after two days soaking in a strong caustic solution, the loose paint came off, but it never even looked like shifting the bottom coating that is a thick grey colour that resembles something like devcon... I would say the casting was coated with this before machining as it is not on any machined surface.. even a machined surface that had been painted over... I guess my option is to put a thin primer over the top now, and down the track use a high fill primer, or spray putty to fill in the areas where the first coat has been chipped away....

Originally Posted by .RC.

Well after two days soaking in a strong caustic solution, the loose paint came off, but it never even looked like shifting the bottom coating that is a thick grey colour that resembles something like devcon... I would say the casting was coated with this before machining as it is not on any machined surface.. even a machined surface that had been painted over... I guess my option is to put a thin primer over the top now, and down the track use a high fill primer, or spray putty to fill in the areas where the first coat has been chipped away....

With niki on cars once you have applied paint stripper even though the stripper will not soften or remove the niki, you have to remove it and reapply before painting.

What is niki?

Originally Posted by .RC.

What is niki?

Bog.

Originally Posted by Metalman

Bog.

Thanks Metalman yes bog or more correctly plastic filler

I think I may have picked the colour...

Taubmans have a colour in a retro revival range called Red Glow.... I picked up a colour chart today and it has 16 retro colours in it... I have a soft spot for retro...

Also got some high build primer...

Originally Posted by .RC.

I think I may have picked the colour...

Taubmans have a colour in a retro revival range called Red Glow.... I picked up a colour chart today and it has 16 retro colours in it... I have a soft spot for retro...

Also got some high build primer...

Thats not a bad looking colour......at least on the computer screen. Is it worth going over to PM and having an ogle. or are you still trying to work out electrics?

Have had my first go with this high fill primer..

Results are a bit disappointing.. All the areas where the old base paint was chipped never got filled... Maybe I did not spray on a thick enough coat??

Are these chipped areas too deep for high fill primer?

Hi Rc

it will take a few goes to fill that and yes you could put it down a bit thicker
the high fill primer will be laying down the same amount on the hole as around it
it wont fill just the holes so you need to sand it back and see where your at then repeat. The primmer sands very easily
I usually lay down 3 coats in quick succession and let dry then sand

cheers
Harty

and because the area you where showing is flat and easy to run over with the orbital sander i would have taken it back to bare metal or at least sand out the chips

cheers
Harty