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  1. #1
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    Default Making a Pan Brake "Folder with fingers" for home

    Okay, just a quick overview of what were dealing with here. Grahame posted up recently a topic about handiest tool you’ve made for metalwork, I posted a pic of my panbrake”folder with fingers” and through Pm’s from people wanting more info, I have decided to start a thread with step by step guide to how to make one. This will take a sheet of steel up to 600mm wide and bend 1.6mm mild steel nice and sharply. If you want to be able to bend thicker steel sharply then you can and Ill point out which bits need to be beefeir as I go along. For the purpose of this exercise Im actually going to help a local mate build one and Ill organise photos on the way, so that way you can see whats actually involved in them. Theres a bit of welding a bit of milling and a bit of lathe work, if you don’t have access to a mill, lathe or a 20 and 25mm drill bit then I recommend maybe getting the bits laser cut out, Ill give you a rough costing of how much these cost as well.
    Total cost of unit in materials 2 years ago anyway wont go over 80 bucks, if you get bits laser or plasma cut then maybe 150 all up, not bad when you consider a commercial unit of this strength and quality will cost you around 1600.
    What can I bend with this unit, well I use this for making my own tool boxes at home and I restore old cars,so as you can imagine for restoration it is absolutely unbelievable. I made one for a mate who works in the panel and paint business, he uses this unit every day just to make the rust replacement bits for the cars, and were talking from mazdas to mercedes.
    A lot of the shape to these bits is purely asthetical, I made my very first unit out of square edges act, worked great looked like crap. But it worked, its your call
    I lost all the computer files a while back “hard drive crash”, I have my original hand drawn ones and some printed cad drawings, so I may take a while with some of the photos pics as Ive got to redraw them
    On my pictures youll see the following notes
    125,35 This is a cad co-ordinate, or for your ruler from the corner of your paper 125mm across and 35mm up is the point at reference
    D/T=Drill and Tap
    D = Drill
    R = Radius

    Okay enjoy and let the cursing begin

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  3. #2
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    Step 1, you require 2 units of this item as they are the ends to your bed. If you get your measurements out between the two units, it will still work but it will stiffen the mechanism, and promote wear. Dont forget to Drill and tap the two holes from above, so that way you can bolt your bed down later. You can square all slopes if you want to there just there for aesthetics. If you wish to get these laser cut, itll cost you about 18 bucks each. Plasma cut even cheaper again. Ill attach a photo of a completed item as well, Have fun now
    Pic 1 Drawing,
    Pic 2 Item made up
    Pic 3 Picture of where the item sits in the finished position
    Pic 4 3D cad drawing of this item

  4. #3
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    Step 2. Foot end piece, nothing complicated here, its just 2 lumps of steel that’s going to be welded in step 3 to the end pieces from step 1, all it does is provide some ridgidity for the end pieces and a means of clamping them down to a bench hence the holes. If you want it can be just a flat piece of steel with no holes ect

  5. #4
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    Step 3. Okay all you’ve got to do here is simply weld item 2 onto the bottom of the end piece run a couple of stitch welds on the inside and tack it 3 places outside, grind the outside ones flush for aesthetics. Make sure the pieces face inwwads respective of which end they are on eg left and right. If you cant weld the item then drill 2 holes 8mm in size up through the end piece foot and tap 2 m8 holes in the bottom of the end pieces and simply bolt them together.
    No more for today, should keep people busy at least for a couple of days
    Steve

  6. #5
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    kuranda north qld
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    wow this looks like a really great thing . thank you for sharing this , cheers bob

  7. #6
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    Thanks a heap for this, one thing I will be making very soon.

    Just realized it gets easier as I now have access to multiple welders and cutting implements.

    Greenies en masse on their way.

  8. #7
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    Good on ya.

    Here is another thread destined for the 'best of' hall.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    Good on ya.

    Here is another thread destined for the 'best of' hall.
    I'll second that!!
    Have a nice day - Cheers

  10. #9
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    Hey Mods can we sticky this I see it as a great resource now and in the future.

    And cheers for putting this up mate.
    Cheers

    Craig
    Brisbane

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by hux View Post
    Hey Mods can we sticky this I see it as a great resource now and in the future.

    And cheers for putting this up mate.
    Go here & nominate it.
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f64/woodwork-forums-16776
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  12. #11
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    Step 4. Flat Bed piece,okay this piece is simply flat bar 684mm long by 110mm wide with a material thickness of 10mm. The two end holes on both sides are 8mm and allow the bed to be bolted down with m8 bolts to the end pieces, thereby creating the folder base frame. The first notch you see in the corner allows the bed to sit around the end piece, with this in mind if you cant get a piece of steel 110 wide but in fact wider say up to 150mm then its not a problem youll just have to do a similar notch on the back edge for whatever deviation you go by. Eg 150mm requires a rear notch of 40mm and so forth. Okay the second notch on the front you see is for clearance of the lifting assy pivot point, have a look at the completed picture to get a better understanding if required.
    Through the centre there are 3 holes 8mm in dia these are for the attachment of the brace in step 5 for ridgitity, obviously you will have to countersink the tops so that way the heads of your bolts are not sitting proud, if your happy welding the underneath brace then don’t bother drilling these holes, they are there solely for the drilling and tapping method of assy.
    Okay that’s pretty much it for this step, have fun now

  13. #12
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    Step 5. Flat Bed brace piece, this is solely to add ridgitiy to the bed so that way when you bend say a 1.6mm piece of steel the bed base wont bow on you, trust me it will if you don’t fit it.
    Okay its flat steel again 10mm thick, 652mm long and 25mm high, you can use up to 50mm wide for extra ridgitity or if you cant get it for some reason in the 25mm range

  14. #13
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    Step 6. Okay lets fit the two pieces from step 4 and step 5. The flat bed is simply bolted down using two m8 bolts on the end pieces from step 3. That’s it. Now place the flat bed brace bar underneath the flat bed and clamp it along the centre line 19mm back from the front edge, if you drilled the 3 centre holes from above youll see the steel dead smack underneath you. Have a look on the end pieces as well it should cover the 8mm holes you drilled on both sides. Okay drill and tap the flat bar from the end pieces first. Now bolt them up with m8 bolts. You can remove your clamps. If you drilled the three centre holes through your flat bed then now continue these three holes into the flat bed brace using a 6.8mm drill and then tap them m8, dont forget to countersink the holes on the flat bed as required by whatever fastener heads your using, its got to be a flush surface remember. If you didn’t drill the three holes then stitch weld from underneath the flat bed brace onto the flat bed

  15. #14
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    Simso,

    Wondering if you would mind if I was to take your posts and photos and use them to make a project booklet that I could use with yr12 engineering tech students? Due credit of course would be given to you.
    Have a nice day - Cheers

  16. #15
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    Yeh doesnt bother me, its probably a good group project, each group tasked with making a piece and marked on it. The whole thing involves a little bit of lathe work a bit of milling and welding or drilling and tapping or alterantively it can be done with good old fashined hand tools files, hacksaw ect. Part of my apprenticeship was to build a 16 piece working vice with hacksaw and files. Every piece had to be perfectly square and you were deducted 1 mark for every deviation from square on each part of the unit, damn that was hard, but you learnt hand skills quickly
    Steve

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