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  1. 10th November 2012, 11:45 PM #1
    Anorak Bob
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    Default Paring with the lathe. (not parting)

    My recent acquisition of a pump oiler that worked AND suited the original ball type nipples that festooned the 13 was reason enough to remove the more conventional nipples I'd installed and reinstate the originals. I think the Wanner oiler is larger than the original supplied with the mill. One nipple could not be accessed properly to ensure adequate delivery of oil. When I installed the Alemite nipples I used a 45 degree version in that location.

    Greg Q identified the original ball nipple as being a K type and kindly provided me with a link to a German manufacturer. A search on German Ebay for kugelschmiernippel proved fruitful. The K type nipples were not too expensive and one seller also had 45 degree offset nipples. But those 45's would not fit without some modification.

    So rather than fool around checking the lathe's tailstock alignment this afternoon, I made a 45 degree offset adapter from some phosphor bronze. After milling and tapping the angled outer end, I had considered a number of ways that I might have been able to remove the projecting elliptical end. Freehand against the sanding disc, even free-er hand with a file, some ambitious setup on the rotary table....or what I ended up doing. There is some manual file work still required but it worked out OK. The nipple is now readily accessible.

    The paring was real easy. The cuts were light due to the delicate hold the M6 screw had in the threaded hole only 5mm deep. The body of the adapter is 9mm in diameter. I simply rotated the chuck 180 degrees by hand.

    One of the photos shows the Alemite version. The ball nipple's 6mm thread was too long. The nipple could not be tightened without closing off the rear of the oil hole. The thread could not be shortened because the outer end is swaged to retain the spring and ball.

    BT
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  3. 10th November 2012, 11:56 PM #2
    Stustoys
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    Default

    At least someone got something useful done today

    Stuart
  4. 11th November 2012, 07:09 AM #3
    Michael G
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    Nice one Bob. How much force do you have to apply with the oil gun? The adapter that you have made is comparatively tall and I'd be worried that (sooner or later) the root of one of the threads will go because of the moment that you would be exerting on it.

    Michael
  5. 11th November 2012, 09:10 AM #4
    Anorak Bob
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    Default A Heeded Warning.

    The spectre of shearing the thread off and the resultant nightmare of trying to remove it without chips of bronze finding their way into the oil passages, is something that has been worrying me Michael. I will reinstall the steel Alemite 45 with a brass spacer under the ball nipple to provide the required clearance. Then I'll make a revised stumpy version from 4140. I can't imagine that stuff will pare off too well.

    BT
  6. 11th November 2012, 12:35 PM #5
    Stustoys
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    Hi BT,
    How about making body of the adaptor shorter? and couldnt you make this shoulder larger?(I assume there is a shallow counter bore on the face?)

    Now to slip in the purpose of my post
    Whats going on in the red circle?

    Stuart
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  7. 11th November 2012, 01:29 PM #6
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    Ueee
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    Nice work Bob,
    Getting something useful done on a sunday Stuart...your joking right?
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
  8. 11th November 2012, 05:44 PM #7
    Anorak Bob
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    Stu and Ewan,

    The stumpy 4140 version was well underway this morning then I ventured down to Fremantle for lunch with my wife. Sometimes guilt drives me out of the shed. But now that lunch's over, I'm heading back.

    The (arrowed) shoulder is required due to the spot facing in the casting having a diameter of 10mm and across the corners on the adapter is 10.5. Also, moving the hex outwards provides access for a 9mm ring spanner. Making the shoulder larger in diameter would have made milling the hex a bit trickier. The body is 9mm in diameter. Rather than around with accurate measurements, I simply machined the first flat down to the body then cut the remaining five at the same depth.

    The circling is a bit vague. On the left is the mounting location for various Z travel gauges. The screws serve to prevent the ingress of swarf. (I could be bullsheeting. I haven't removed them ) The leadscrew is on the right.

    BT
  9. 11th November 2012, 08:20 PM #8
    Anorak Bob
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    OK Boys. Here's Stumpy.

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  10. 11th November 2012, 08:25 PM #9
    Michael G
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    Yep. I like that one a lot more. The PhBr one would have been good for a while, but...

    Michael
  11. 11th November 2012, 08:30 PM #10
    Stustoys
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    The circling is a bit vague. On the left is the mounting location for various Z travel gauges. The screws serve to prevent the ingress of swarf. (I could be bullsheeting. I haven't removed them ) The leadscrew is on the right.
    BT
    Thanks BT, I was seeing things that arent there.


    Great work on MkII.

    Stuart
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