Thread: parkanson

Can you post some pics of it ,so I can see what model it is and if it has the same arrangement as mine..
Particularly the feed position handle and the area on top of the oil tank.

Kev.

Here's some pics of it i suspect that it may have been repainted because i am yet to see one the same colour. also do u know some where that i can get 22" (550mm) blades at a good price.Thanks

Attachment 162682

Attachment 162683

Attachment 162684

Attachment 162726
Attachment 162727

It's a smaller and later model than mine ,but the pump and the raise and lower mechanics are the same .
Mine has the drive on the out side of the main frame and is two speed .

The raise / lower hamdle is conected to a shaft which goes right the way through to the pump , on this shaft under the oil tank lid is a gear that positions the pin that slides out so that when the saw gets to a lower position the bow knocks the pin back in stages ,to set the valve to raise.
The valve is on the end of that shaft ,and is a tapered plug ,(like a gas cock ) .The tapered section has a series of holes in it which match up to ports in the pump body ,depending on where the handle is set determines which way the oil flows ,either to raise or lower the beam.
The valve can be adjusted to account for wear on the taper , by taking the oil tank lid off and there are two nuts on the threaded part of the shaft , you can adjust the valve further into its seat by unlocking the lock nut and turning the adjusting nut to move the taper into it seat further .This will lessen the amount of leakage in the valve.
On the left side of the machine between the gear cover and the bow there is a cylinder that lifts the bow ,it gets pressure from the pump ,if the seals on the piston are worn , there will be leakage there as well.
In further behind the gear cover is the pump , you can only see the top of it as the rest is submerged in the oil tank .
Two eccentric drive two pistons which supply oil pressure for the lift and the intermittent lift for the saw while it's cutting ,the pistons have "orings" on them ,if these are worn then you wont get full pressure .
The red knob between the gear cover and the lift cylinder is the pressure relief valve ,its used to adjust the pressure supplied by the pump ,the one on this machine appears to be screwed out which will drop the oil pressure.

Your machine appears to be well used , but in good condition .
They are worth spending a few bucks on and getting them back in working condition.I reckon they are way better that the bandsaw type.

If you do a search on this forum you should be able to find my posts relating to the restoration I did on my machine.
I don't know how old mine is ,but the bearings are all imperial and the ones I removed , were Echuca brand ,made in Australia , the guy at CBC told me that brand of bearing was stopped being produced just after WW2.Just a guess I reckon my saw is circa 1950 around four years older than me.

The only power hacksaw blades I"ve seen are 12" , 14 " and 16" ,
they can be had from most industrial suppliers , and I have seen them on Ebay as well.

Kev

Its not near as well used as the pic show it doesnt leak oil any except where the cams are from oil running a little fast throught them, and it is also two speed (two diffrent sets pullys to change between) i will probly have a look tonight yours must be massive how large is the blade on yours. When we brought it home we put it on the back of the ute which went all the way down to the bumper stops. Yea i know they are far quicker then i imagened them to be .And allways seem to cut straight. Thanks for the help Scott

I removed the main lift arm (hydrolic rams plunger) and discoverd that the o-ring on the end was bugged so i will get a new one tommorow.I think that would have been a big contribution to my problem of it dropping quick. And then it will be a fully functioning machine. I still want to get the top off but it seems to be held by something is there a trick.Also i really want to give it a rub back and paint (when i can afford it its not good being 18teen on 3rd year wages) what paint did u use anyway. Thanks for all your help Scott

By the top do you mean the main beam with the slide on it for the bow ?
In the bushes each side of the beam mine has grub screws which secure the shaft that the beam pivots on .
Once all the screws are removed the shaft should be able to be knocked out with a drift .
Mind , the bow is very heavy I took mine a part by myself ,but needed assistance to get it back together .
Mine weighs around the 500 kilo mark , the beam ,the bow and the main body is all cast iron.My ute took ages to recover from the load .
I used an epoxy paint , can't remember the name ,but I can check the can for the brand .I remember the colour was wedgewood .
IIRC the standard Parkanson colour of the later models was a hammer tone blue.

It took me nearly a year from start to finish to get mine done .I'm still not quite finished as I need to put the outer guard on it.One of those jobs that get put on the back burner ,at l;east I can use it when I need to.

Kev.

NEW NEW NEW NEW NEW NEW NEW


G'day no it doesnt seem to be stuck on it will move from side to side but not up. Any way i took the ram plunger out that lifts the boom and discoverd that the o-ring was bugged as well as metal rings below that i think work as a o-ring divice as well (they are kinda like rings in an engine) i think it may have had to of these but one has been replaced with an o-ring i tried to perchause to as one of them was bugged but they were an odd size so i decided to place two rings in and delete the original steel rings (tempory). Any why is seems to be working great now. And i think i will pull it all apart like u did and sand blast, soke in costic soda and scrub it back with a wire brush sounds fun. Thanks for all your help i think i will never see under the oil lide and mine has 6 bolts.

Scott

Mine just lifts off after undoing the four bolts on the lid .

The pinion is on the shaft of the raise / lower lever , the pin that slides back and forward through the lid has a gear rack cut into it and just sits on top of the pinion gear.Maybe the lid has been stuck down with some gasket goo like Heldite or Stag ( god forbid, "Stag the plumbers friend ,,,,, fitters nightmare.)or similar .
When I re-assembled mine I cut a gasket from a corn flakes box and just put some grease on it .
Try tapping the lid a bit with a soft hammer to break any gasket goo.
As far as lathes go there are a number of brand names that come to mind , Macson, Nuttal , Herbert , Dean ,Smith and Grace, all old machinery , depending on the treatment and age they can be nightmares or if you are lucky get one that has been looked after.
Later ones like Harrison , Colchester ,Mazak could be worth looking at .Probably have forgotten a lot .
I have a MK1 Edgwick toolroom lathe ,made by Alfred Herbert , needs a lot of work to get it back to pristine condition though , probably will take a few years to get done .A very solid machine with a lot of cast cross ribs in the bed construction.

Kev.

NEW NEW NEW NEW NEW NEW NEW


G'day no it doesnt seem to be stuck on it will move from side to side but not up. Any way i took the ram plunger out that lifts the boom and discoverd that the o-ring was bugged as well as metal rings below that i think work as a o-ring divice as well (they are kinda like rings in an engine) i think it may have had to of these but one has been replaced with an o-ring i tried to perchause to as one of them was bugged but they were an odd size so i decided to place two rings in and delete the original steel rings (tempory). Any why is seems to be working great now. And i think i will pull it all apart like u did and sand blast, soke in costic soda and scrub it back with a wire brush sounds fun. Thanks for all your help i think i will never see under the oil lide and mine has 6 bolts.

Scott