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12th October 2014, 08:36 PM #1
Anyone use Penetrol for stopping existing rust?
If you have, perhaps you could look in here for me please:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/rust-removal-roofing-wire-brush-pressure-wash-skip-brushing-189089
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15th October 2014, 05:10 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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Is that the stuff used to make paint more smooth or the stuff to free rusted or stuck threads?
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15th October 2014, 05:13 PM #3
This one:
http://www.floodaustralia.net/produc...-anti_rust.php
which is supposed to make paint smooth and stop rust by starving it of air (because it penetrates right into the rust sponge and expels all the air).
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26th October 2014, 06:49 PM #4
Brett
Sorry I didn't see this thread (My new glasses will be here soon).
In a word, Penetrol is "magic." Thoroughly recommend it. I will post some more information and pix, but a little short of time right at the moment.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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26th October 2014, 09:55 PM #5
Penetrol is superb for halting rust. I have used it in general application and also to repaint our corrugated iron roof. For the roof loose rust was scrubbed off with a wire brush a bit like a scrubbing brush but made from stiff wire shaped to the corrugated profile.
Then neat Penetrol was applied: It flows easily by the way and a water based paint sprayed over the top.
Penetrol can be added to oil based paint and it will considerably improve the flow characteristics as well as improving the covering capability. Although it cannot be added to water based paint, it can be used neat as I have described above and then painted over with water based paint.
It is not suitable for use with automotive paint. I used it for some steel poles which were the structural components of a tank stand. The 150mm pipe had previously been salvaged from fire mains and was covered in surface rust with some pitting. There are some pix of the heavy pipe in this thread, first painted with Penetrol (the glossy blackish look) and then with some red spray paint I had lying around.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/h...1/#post1574823
Just a word on spraying with aerosol cans onto a Penetrol base. The propellant reacts with Penetrol. The way around this is to lightly spray from a distance until a mist of paint covers the Penetrol. Then you can continue with eatra coats as normal.
I left one of those large pipes coated with Penetrol along half of the length only out in the weather for six months. No sign of the rusted surface breaking through.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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26th October 2014, 10:19 PM #6
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28th October 2014, 12:29 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Fisholene vs Penetrol
I have to confess I haven't have much experience with Penetrol but I have used a comparable product for more than 30 years. I came from a place where dealing with rust is a way of life - Windy Wellington where rain is horizontal and water can go uphill on a shallow angle roof.
Rust needs 2 things to form. Water and oxygen. Moisture contains both which mean if you sealed off the metal and you starve the metal of both water and oxygen. No rust can further be formed. However, sealing off rust is difficult because the structure of rust contains layers or fakes on top of another which forms pockets to trap both air and moisture. Normal paint wont work because moisture is already trapped underneath the rust that you have just painted over.
The only thing that would work is a liquid that has high penetration power and strong adhesion ability. I think both Fisholene and Penetrol have both of these properties. I use Fisholene because I've always used it and it has worked well for me. I think Penetrol is slightly thinner and hence it will dry faster, but fisholene have better sealing property. Both penetrates well and adhere well.
However, to be successful, you will have to remove all loose rust otherwise you will give yourself a handicap to sealing the surface properly. You can apply fisholene directly over surface rust liberally. Wait for it to dry over a few weeks, then you can coat it with a oil based primer. then paint as usual. I presume you would do similarly with Penetrol though I think it will dry faster.
By the way, when fisholene dries, it form a quite tough thick layer.
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