Thread: views on stanley air compressor

Price is good for a belt driven unit (although I note RRP @$699 is WAY over priced).
The 190 L/min from a single cylinder with a 2.5HP donk is about right but about the only advantage the Stanley has over a direct 2.5 HP drive unit like the $229 BlackRidge Unit from SCA is the reduced noise. The Stanley might be a little better made but I doubt that is the case with Stanley stuff these days - it's just a logo like a lot of other logos.

FWIW, to get rid of compressor noise I put my cheap and noisy compressor outside my shed in its own noise proof enclosure. Not only does it get the noise out of shed but it saves on valuable shed space. The price difference of $170 would easily pay for the materials for a nice enclosure and leave a few bucks over for a few cartons.

I like your thinking there Bob! My workshop is right next to the little pump shed for my pool. I can already see how I'm going to shoehorn the compressor in. Good suggestion.

Yeah I agree, it's overpriced at $699 - and even at $399 I was a bit dubious - hence the thread.

Regards

- Mick

I have a 2.5hp direct drive compressor which I also have plans to move outside into a small enclosure. I have an extra tank to expand capacity made from a 45kg gas cylinder. This sits outside the shed and has a valve on it so I only use it when I need to. It holds air for months unlike the leaky compressor fittings.

Dean

Hi Mick,

It wont keep up with a spray gun if you are talking about spraying cars for a living but for the odd car or touch up you'll get by just fine I think.

I'm told the belt drives last longer than the direct drives as they have bigging pistons going slower. But really I'd think that came back to the quaitly of the unit.

Hi Bob,
Are you sure its a single cyclinder? I'm think I can see 6 head bolts.


Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi Bob,
Are you sure its a single cyclinder? I'm think I can see 6 head bolts.

Hi Stu, Yes on closer examination it could well be. That explains the higher cost and is even more likely to last longer but it remains a small compressor.

Hi fellas, thanks for the comments.

I've decided to keep it and will see how it goes.

Dean - I like the idea of the auxillary tank. If the 50L doesn't suit me, then I'll give your idea a go.

Stuart - no, not professional work at all, just hobby. Stop/Start is more my style than hours of continuous use.

It's actually incredibly hard to find out anything about this air compressor at all on the web, so you pretty much have to take your chances. It's model number is AC6359, but that doesn't help any (unless you're interested in Air Canada flight AC6359: Marseille - Brussels).

So… given the lack of info around, I'll provide some feedback here that hopefully will be of some interest to someone.

• Packaging: the box is a bold shade of yellow with extensive use of black - sort of bringing back a sense of nostalgia - back to the days when stanley gear was pretty good stuff. The packaging matches the compressor itself very nicely. The compressor is wrapped in a plastic bag. The plastic bag has a zip tie on it, but mine wasn’t done up.
• Documentation: there's a little manual all written in English (not engrish). Reasonable. The parts diagram just shows external parts - at this stage I have no idea whether it is 1 or 2 cylinder. It has a good summary of pre-start checks, on/off procedures and maintenance requirements.
• Warranty: 24 months and it has the phone, fax and email details of who to contact.
• Duty cycle: it says it is 95% duty cycle, and then goes on to explain that this "for example" means 55 minutes operation and 5 minutes resting, so maybe it’s really 91.6% ?
• It comes pre-filled with oil (to the right level), so it's basically ready to go out of the box, apart from some minor assembly (wheels and handle)
• The little wheels have a pretty solid feel to them. They could be bigger - to make it easier to haul over all the crap on the workshop floor, but seem OK.

I still don't know for sure whether it is twin cylinder. I think it might be (something like 2 x 75mm bore?) based on the head shape (see photo), but it certainly isn't in a "V" pattern that you typically see.

I probably won't have a chance to work with it for a week or so, but will post my thoughts on operation after that.

Cheers

- Mick

I would pretty well guarantee that it is a twin cylinder. If you look at the head shape, it is wider than it is long and the shape of the casting suggests a twin cylinder layout.
Further, I would go so far as to say it is either an Ingersol Rand pump or a very close copy thereof, meaning parts if required should be easy to source.
The auxiliary tank would be great if you were spray painting as it would allow the air more cooling time which aids immensely in removing moisture. If you can, be sure to put a moisture drain in the auxiliary tank as well and make sure to remove any traces of gas in the cylinder.
I would rate this compressor well above the Blackridge direct drive units from what I can see in your posts.

Originally Posted by Karl Robbers

I would pretty well guarantee that it is a twin cylinder. If you look at the head shape, it is wider than it is long and the shape of the casting suggests a twin cylinder layout.
Further, I would go so far as to say it is either an Ingersol Rand pump or a very close copy thereof, meaning parts if required should be easy to source.
The auxiliary tank would be great if you were spray painting as it would allow the air more cooling time which aids immensely in removing moisture. If you can, be sure to put a moisture drain in the auxiliary tank as well and make sure to remove any traces of gas in the cylinder.
I would rate this compressor well above the Blackridge direct drive units from what I can see in your posts.

I filled my gas cylinder with water and emptied it many times. I think I also used some detergent. The gas stink persisted. I gave up eventually and put up with the smell in the compressed air. It does not smell anymore so must have finally gone away. This cylinder feeds into the main one so both feed out to the trap which I added. There was already a connection complete with valve for an added tank for some reason. It is only a cheap 2.5hp direct drive compressor.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

I filled my gas cylinder with water and emptied it many times. I think I also used some detergent. The gas stink persisted. I gave up eventually and put up with the smell in the compressed air.

The mercaptan buries it's way into the metal and as you say takes a long time to drop below detection levels. If you want to get rid of the smell sooner then putting the cylinder in the sun or using boiling water will help but it will still take longer than you think.

I agree that the unit looks like a twin cylinder.

Originally Posted by BobL

The mercaptan buries it's way into the metal and as you say takes a long time to drop below detection levels. If you want to get rid of the smell sooner then putting the cylinder in the sun or using boiling water will help but it will still take longer than you think.

I agree that the unit looks like a twin cylinder.

It is truly surprising just how porous steel can be as regards substances penetrating the surface. This is the reason why many fuel tanks explode when they are worked upon, even when they have been washed and no smell lingers. Put some heat into them and the vapours leach out from the steel and BOOM. That's why you have to hot wash them, (get the tank seriously hot with a steam cleaner), and weld them while still hot.
Back to air compressors. I would plumb the tanks in series so that hot air from the compressor pump transfers into the main tank, (the wet tank) of the compressor unit, cooling somewhat as it progresses, water separating out. The air then proceeds to the auxiliary tank, (dry tank) having cooled greatly, cools some more and loses even more moisture, leaves the tank and then meets the water separator and regulator, (which should be mounted above the tank so any water can drain back to the tank). This will give a good supply of dry air for spraying or whatever use is desired. A side benefit of the twin tank setup is that there is a large volume of air available for surge loads such as large rattle guns and other air tools and is also easier on the starting circuits of the motor and switchgear.

Originally Posted by BobL

The mercaptan buries it's way into the metal and as you say takes a long time to drop below detection levels. If you want to get rid of the smell sooner then putting the cylinder in the sun or using boiling water will help but it will still take longer than you think.

I agree that the unit looks like a twin cylinder.

I will remember about the heat if I do it again. The smell has gone now tho.

Dean

Originally Posted by Karl Robbers

It is truly surprising just how porous steel can be as regards substances penetrating the surface. This is the reason why many fuel tanks explode when they are worked upon, even when they have been washed and no smell lingers. Put some heat into them and the vapours leach out from the steel and BOOM. That's why you have to hot wash them, (get the tank seriously hot with a steam cleaner), and weld them while still hot.
Back to air compressors. I would plumb the tanks in series so that hot air from the compressor pump transfers into the main tank, (the wet tank) of the compressor unit, cooling somewhat as it progresses, water separating out. The air then proceeds to the auxiliary tank, (dry tank) having cooled greatly, cools some more and loses even more moisture, leaves the tank and then meets the water separator and regulator, (which should be mounted above the tank so any water can drain back to the tank). This will give a good supply of dry air for spraying or whatever use is desired. A side benefit of the twin tank setup is that there is a large volume of air available for surge loads such as large rattle guns and other air tools and is also easier on the starting circuits of the motor and switchgear.

I can understand what you are saying about connecting tanks in series but the extra tank is only used on the rare occasions that I need lots of air such as spraying or using one of my few air tools. Most times I don't turn on the valve for this tank. I have to walk outside the shed and then down the full length of it to access the valve which is on the top of the cylinder just outside the wall from the compressor. I should hard plumb it to a position inside but I am planning on finding a position for the compressor outside anyway with a shelter over it. Then I will hard plumb everything. The fittings on my compressor leak everywhere. I fixed a lot of them when I got it but it still leaks. Another reason for isolating the big cylinder.

Why do you say let the water run back into the tank? My seperator sits on the side of the compressor and dumps the water when pressure gets below a certain level. Are you talking about water left in the line?

Dean

Dean

Karl, that's great info regarding heat and moisture - not something that myself as a compressor newbie would think about, but makes perfect sense. Also good to see a relatively positive rating compared to the cheaper units. I also didn't understand the comment about letting moisture drain back to the tank... was this in relation to condensation forming within the airline between the tank and the separator?

I haven't really had a chance to use the compressor in anger yet, but I did rig up the plasma torch to it briefly just to prove everything was working. A couple more comments:

- the 50L tank doesn't last long, particularly as I also had a few leaks at some of the hose fittings. Actually, when I say it didn't last long, I mean it didn't take long for the pressure switch to kick in again. Anyway, I think I'll be rigging up an auxiliary (in series)... eventually. The extra overhead of filling 2 tanks is minimal in my opinion, even in my situation where it's just for light use.
- I would rate the compressor as moderate in the noise compartment, so the earlier suggestions regarding putting it in a sound proof enclosure are also going to be put into action.
- If you've never used a plasma torch, then you haven't lived.

Now... I need to do a bit of air plumbing. I'm thinking of stashing the compressor in my pool pump shed which is about 8m (plumbing length) from my workshop (garage). Then I was thinking of running a supply line down the length of my garage (about 6m) and having a socket at each end, maybe one in the middle, where I can hook in a short air line. What have you guys used to for your plumbing? A few photos and ideas would be great.

Oh yeah... how do you fix air leaks at fittings anyway?

thanks

- Mick

Originally Posted by WelderMick

Now... I need to do a bit of air plumbing. I'm thinking of stashing the compressor in my pool pump shed which is about 8m (plumbing length) from my workshop (garage). Then I was thinking of running a supply line down the length of my garage (about 6m) and having a socket at each end, maybe one in the middle, where I can hook in a short air line. What have you guys used to for your plumbing? A few photos and ideas would be great.

Details of how I reticted my comp air around my shed are here.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/s...60/index4.html

I use galv pipe as I already had a lot of galv fittings and the threading gear although Galv fittings are very cheap ($2-3 each) if you need them.
In total I used 3 x 6 m lengths of 1/2" galv pipe ($50 per 6m length) on plumbing my shed.
Comp air fittings are cheaper if you buy them in sets of 4 or more.

As well as 3 air overhead connectors in the middle of the shed I also have 4 connectors in the middle of the walls, and 3 of these connectors have short lengths of hose permanently connected to them so I rarely have to swap hoses or move more than a couple of meters.
One of the ceiling connectors has a 6 m long retractable air hose connected to it. That could serve the whole shed but I don't like hoses or electrical cables blocking access to walk ways and mainly use the retractable to clean chainsaws outside the shed.

My sound reduction chamber details are here.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/b...ml#post1378982