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Thread: Pipe centre

  1. #1
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    Default Pipe centre

    Guys,
    I just got a pipe centre in a tool order from OS, and the morse taper doesn't have a tang on the end. It has the 1/2" whit female thread you'd expect to see on a Milling tool. I primarily want to use it on the lathes tailstock. Is it going to be a problem? Is the tang a 'must have' to prevent rotation in the tailstock?
    I guess it will allow me to use it in my Mill, if I ever have to but I don't want its use in the lathe to be compromised.

    Sterob

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  3. #2
    Dave J Guest

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    A MT tang is not for driving it or holding it, it's only to help in the removal with a drift.
    The pipe centre should have a screw in the back that you take out for oiling then replace it so nothing gets in, (at least mine has)

    Dave

  4. #3
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Just to add to above, if anyone is needing a tang to make removal in a drill press or a MT adapter, they are available as a screw in part.
    4th item down
    Arc Euro Trade - Drill Chuck Arbors

    These would not be hard to make as they only need to be made out of mild steel or something similar. The top part could be ground with a bench/hand grinder if you don't have a mill as they don't need to be precise.

    Sterob
    My lathe tail stock doesn't even have a slot to hold tangs, it is just a MT3 and gets pushed out with the ram screw when it's far enough back.

    Dave

    EDIT
    I just had a look at my Hare andf Forbes pipe centre and it's has a 14 x 15mm thread in the back. Here are a few pictures showing the screw in the back, maybe your is missing?





    Dave

  5. #4
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    Default

    Great Dave thanks.. yet another thing for the to do list.

    Stuart

    p.s. The pipe center shouldnt be spining in the MT unless the bearings seize.(it is a live center isnt it?)

  6. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    A MT tang is not for driving it or holding it, it's only to help in the removal with a drift.
    The pipe centre should have a screw in the back that you take out for oiling then replace it so nothing gets in, (at least mine has)

    Dave
    Ok, thats ok then. Mine does not have a blanking screw like yours. It was in a sealed bag, so I assume it came from the factory like that.
    I specified a drawbar thread for a keyless chuck, in the same order, so I *think* the supplier assumed I wanted the same for he Pipe Centre.
    Yes, its a 'live centre', I should have mentioned that.....
    Sterob

  7. #6
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    To have it mounted in a mill with a draw bar would be pretty useless, as their would be rotation transfer at all. Not sure why they would put a draw bar thread in their.

    I would just get a bolt to suit, machine it down and put a hacksaw cut across it.

    For anyone thinking of building one
    Cone Centres

    Dave

  8. #7
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    Default

    Dave what is the TTA that he speaks of making in that post?

  9. #8
    Dave J Guest

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    Without looking it is probably the taper turning attachment.

    Dave

  10. #9
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    Default

    Ah yes, thats probably it.

  11. #10
    Dave J Guest

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    He built the taper turning attachment himself and did a great job of it, here is a link to it.
    Myford Taper Turning Atahment AGIAN

    Dave

  12. #11
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    Default

    Strewth he did do a good job. Inspiring stuff.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Looks like I will have to put something on the back of morse taper, as I used the pipe centre for the job I needed it for, and now can't get it out of the tail stock!..lol
    Mind you, I have just tried to pop it out, by retracting the tailstock shaft.
    I haven't tried any other way yet, so am not panicking. I'll see if I can take the wheel off the rear and drift it out.
    I'll take some measurements, when I get it out and see how muck more length in the taper, I need, for that to work properly. If a machined whit bolt won't do it, i will have delve deeper.

    Sterob

  14. #13
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    Default

    Sterob
    Did you try winding the quill right out and using a drift?

    Stuart

  15. #14
    Dave J Guest

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    I am with Stuart, wind it completely out then put a drift up inside the thread and give it a bang on the bench, it should pop strait out.
    If you try to hit it from the side to get it out you will bend it, I had an old one like that someone had hit.

    Dave

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    I am with Stuart, wind it completely out then put a drift up inside the thread and give it a bang on the bench, it should pop strait out.
    If you try to hit it from the side to get it out you will bend it, I had an old one like that someone had hit.

    Dave
    No, thanks for the idea guys. I'll do that. I got as far as thinking that hitting the side would bend it but not as far as finding a solution.
    Onces its out I will determine how to stop it happening again....

    Sterob

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