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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodweb View Post
    All good advice if you have a threaded spindle but I don't. My chuck is held on by 3 bolts.

    i have tried my 3 jaw chuck in all three possible positions and have not seen any significant difference in runout and I know my 4 jaw (or collet spindle adapter) can fix the misalignment however, I was really interested in the definition of runout which is pretty elusive when a noob does a bit of googling.
    Hi rod,

    No mystery, it's just maximum indicator reading minus the minimum indicator reading.. axial run-out is measured along the axis, radial run-out is measured along the radius..

    Regards
    Ray

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Hi rod,
    radial run-out is measured along the radius..

    Regards
    Ray
    Thanks Ray, so radial runout is half of TIR? Is that right?

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    What makes you think that?

    Thats why you face the faceplate on the machine it will be used on. Now you'll want a good cross slide etc etc. But even if the cross silde is shocking and the flate plate doesnt end up "flat". it should still have zero axial runout.

    Stuart
    I agree on the axial bit Stuart.

    Would the reworked face plate actually be flat ?

    My understanding is that the centre will cut slightly deeper than the perimeter, as lathe cross slides are set up to do that. I seem to remember CBA Melbourne mentioning this is a measure to prevent mating facing surfaces from "rocking".

    I can't see any benefit of measuring on the outside of the spindle flange as the OP stated. That isn't a mating or locating surface.

    The radial measurement of the spindle flange should be taken on the stepped section that keys into the rear of the chuck etc if it's a bolt up type.

    The critical factor would be, how well does the faceplate locate on that "peg".

    Rob

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodweb View Post
    Thanks Ray, so radial runout is half of TIR? Is that right?
    No.... you don't divide by 2 ( at least I don't think so ) you are rotating the part around the center point, so you're measuring the distance from center to minumum radius and center to maximum radius that you will read on an indicator, and the radial runout is the difference in radius of two circles that fully enclose the surface being measured... just directly subtract max and min readings is all you need to do. ( I could possible find a reference somewhere )

    Regards
    Ray

  6. #20
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    Here you go...

    radial_runout.jpg

    Hope that makes it a bit clearer.. just subtract the minimum from the maximum.

    Regards
    Ray

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    Would the reworked face plate actually be flat ?

    My understanding is that the centre will cut slightly deeper than the perimeter, as lathe cross slides are set up to do that. I seem to remember CBA Melbourne mentioning this is a measure to prevent mating facing surfaces from "rocking".
    I didnt say flat, I said "zero axial runout".
    A dead center should have zero axial runout.
    Now concave the lathe is cutting is another issue...it shouldnt be much, but I cant recall the number off the top of my head.

    Stuart

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Now concave the lathe is cutting is another issue...it shouldnt be much, but I cant recall the number off the top of my head.

    Stuart
    Up to 0.02mm per 300mm diameter (Schlesinger, 7E)

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Up to 0.02mm per 300mm diameter (Schlesinger, 7E)
    Thanks
    About a thou a ft..1 in 12000.... thats not alot.

    Now if our lathe is indeed cutting concave. Do we want a face plate that is parrallel to the cutter(well half of it anyway) or do we want to scrape it flat?

    Stuart

  10. #24
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    Hi Stuart,

    Wrong question, the question should be what do you do if you want to turn something flat to better than 0.02 in 300? forget the faceplate....

    Regards
    Ray

  11. #25
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    Hi Ray,
    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Wrong question, the question should be what do you do if you want to turn something flat to better than 0.02 in 300? forget the faceplate....
    There comes a time when you just have to move to the grinder or reach for the blue

    Of course you could start by scraping the cross slide.............. doesnt take long

    Stuart

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Of course you could start by scraping the cross slide.............. doesnt take long

    Stuart
    No not long at all......just as long as you don't buy a new mill to distract you half way through the job..

    My Mars's faceplate has a cast in radius at the front edge. It is not even all the way round and it drives me nuts looking at it spin. I faced it ages ago, it still runs without runout every time i use it. Its not like it changes a little bit every time i put it on (threaded nose)

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  13. #27
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    I can understand what PC said about the edge or periphery of the FP. it's neither here or there if it's not running true (radially) but boy it's distracting. After you have dialled in a piece of work, it's nice to see everything rotate with little or no noticable movement (yea I know, it only happens with round stuff but you know what I mean) but then your eye catches the wobble on the edge of the FP and for a second I think the workpiece has moved or something!

    Cheers,

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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