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  1. #1
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    Default Please help! Stuck bolt.

    I need to remove the bolts from my cast iron table saw top. My problem is they are stuck! I need to loosen them as the mitre slot is not aligned. I have tried using my impact driver (ryobi 1+) and still no luck Anyone got any ideas or suggestions as to what i can do?

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  3. #2
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    Pics showing the lay out would be useful

    Heat?

    If the bolts protrude then direct heat with a small flame for around 30s - even a cigarette lighter might work.

    If they are in a recess then a soldering iron for a few minutes.

  4. #3
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    Did you try a breaker bar or a manual ratchet as well or just the Ryobi Impact Driver?

    If you just used the impact driver, I'd suggest you try using a breaker bar and giving it a sharp rap with a mallet or block of wood.
    Cheers

    DJ


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  5. #4
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    There are impact drivers, and there are impact drivers.

    You can't beat the old hand held punch type drivers.

    eg. Impact Driver - Robson's Tool King Store

    Run rings around those woosey cordless toys.

    Rob

  6. #5
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    And then if it is a decent impact driver the bit will tear the soft (most likely chinese) bolt apart.

    Ken

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toggy View Post
    And then if it is a decent impact driver the bit will tear the soft (most likely chinese) bolt apart.

    Ken
    Its an old hafco saw. So Taiwanese bolt :P

    I will give my seriously impact driver a flog and see if it budges

  8. #7
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    Default maybe

    ok give it as much of a soak in some penetrating oil as you can. give the bolt a very good whack with a hammer and punch and try to tighten it with the impact driver then try loosing.
    if this doesn't work try heating or cooling there is a lock tight spay for loosing seized bolts.
    wuth rost off is a good penetating spay.
    aaron

  9. #8
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    Default

    If it is that tight, go for the heat before you try and turn it hard enough to break the bolt.

  10. #9
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    Default

    A picture of the suituation would help



    Peter

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petethebutcher View Post
    A picture of the suituation would help



    Peter
    Understandable, i will get some tomorrow when I'm in the workshop

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toggy View Post
    And then if it is a decent impact driver the bit will tear the soft (most likely chinese) bolt apart.

    Ken
    Can do.

    Where people go wrong is using a rattle gun for this sort of job.

    A rattle gun is NOT an impact driver and will probably skip and tear up the head (if it's slotted) and can tear off the head if it's a bolt.

    The old hand held impact punches are the most controllable (regarding amount of force applied).

    +1 on applying a bit of heat - small butane jewellers type flame would work wonders on a steel to cast iron problem.

    Steel to alloy is a bit different in that the alloy actually grows into/physically bonds to the steel over time. That's why you have to use an impact driver when disassembling most types of motorcycle engines.


    Rob

  13. #12
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    Apply heat as per Robs suggestion. This will compress all the rust etc in the threads. Then chill the bolt with a freeze spray can. Available from electronics suppliers like Jaycar. This will shrink the bolt and hopefully create some clearance. Get penetrant on first so hopefully the shrinkage will draw it in to the threads.

    Dean

  14. #13
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    For penetrant, you can't go past atf(auto transmission fluid) and acetone. Mix a bit up and brush it on. The acetone wicks the atf into any miniscule gaps and then dries out leaving behind the atf.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    Apply heat as per Robs suggestion. This will compress all the rust etc in the threads. Then chill the bolt with a freeze spray can. Available from electronics suppliers like Jaycar. This will shrink the bolt and hopefully create some clearance. Get penetrant on first so hopefully the shrinkage will draw it in to the threads.

    Dean
    If there's one thing farmers can't resist, it's some new form of MAGIC rust penetrator snake oil that the sales rep flashes out of the sample case

    Given the amount of rusted up gear on farms it's no wonder.

    My bro in law is an absolute sucker for this stuff.

    Every time I see him he shows me some new rust debonder/eater/dissolver/destroyer/incapacitator ete. etc he's just bought - and it's never cheap.

    Always have a chuckle when I hear what it can do. Some of it actually works.

    Rob

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    If there's one thing farmers can't resist, it's some new form of MAGIC rust penetrator snake oil that the sales rep flashes out of the sample case

    Given the amount of rusted up gear on farms it's no wonder.

    My bro in law is an absolute sucker for this stuff.

    Every time I see him he shows me some new rust debonder/eater/dissolver/destroyer/incapacitator ete. etc he's just bought - and it's never cheap.

    Always have a chuckle when I hear what it can do. Some of it actually works.

    Rob
    Are you having a go at me? That last penetrant I bought actually worked, as a fire lighter. LOL.

    Actually I have only had one salesperson come here in the 13 years we have been here, except for the occassional visit from a stock agent. I have also only had two visits from religious organisations in that time. There are some benefits to living in the bush.

    Ewan

    I agree with the ATF and acetone. This was claimed to be the best penetrant in a non lab test done by a car magazine. Don't ask me details, I was just researching for the best penetrant on the net.

    Dean

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