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Thread: poor mans dro setup.
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23rd January 2012, 03:54 PM #16Dave J Guest
Looks good and will be a handy feature for you. Smart thinking on the zero set up also
You maybe able to sandwich a thin piece of alumium (bent at a right angle) on the back to stop the coolant getting in, as in time it might do damage.
I will one of these days get around to doing my cross slide lock like that I have a thick backing plate so I am hoping I will be able to mill it out and not have to go right though it.
I am it will give others ideas, so thanks for posting it up.
Dave
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23rd January 2012, 04:03 PM #17Distracted Member
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So the point of the buzzer is to set the dro in relation to the tool, yes? I'll be interested to hear how you find this in use. I've never used a dro, but find myself frequently re-zeroing my X-slide DI because it saves calculations. I'll cut, calculate, zero, then read cuts cumulatively straight from the dial. If I didn't zero I'd have to do more sums to know what the dial should read. Am I doing it wrong? Or just lazy?
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23rd January 2012, 04:19 PM #18Dave J Guest
Hi Bryan,
I think once he gets it to 80mm he would be able to wind the cross slide in 80 and zero it out.
On my DRO, I take a cut and then move the tool away with out moving the cross slide, measure with mics/verniers (depending on the job) the input that measurement directly into the DRO.
Lahter's DRO wont allow inputs so he has to go about it differently.
It could sometimes have an repeatability error after mounting and re mounting the chuck, but it would only be small, (probably less than the resolution of his DRO)
Dave
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23rd January 2012, 04:29 PM #19
Hi Lather,
Clever way of calibrating the DRO without having the ability to input a number.
With mine I zero the DRO take a cut, back out and measure the part, then with the DRO wound back to zero enter the measured value, and (usually enter 1/2 as well)
From then on it's calibrated to that tool.
Regards
Ray
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23rd January 2012, 04:32 PM #20Distracted Member
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23rd January 2012, 04:34 PM #21Dave J Guest
Hi Ray,
Have you ever used the tool storage on your DRO?
I have used it a few times on repetitious jobs where I needed to change tools a lot and do a lot of the same parts, but find it's more trouble than it's worth for day to day use, especially using HSS.
Dave
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23rd January 2012, 05:01 PM #22Awaiting Email Confirmation
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Dave,
have thought about gluing the thin part of a wiper blade onto the bottom of the cover, so there is no gap where it meets the tops of saddle.
when washing down from above it's fine.
use a T piece of aluminum that just sits over the gap for the lock nut access to stop swarf getting in the gap.
will have a better cover made later that bolts on from its ends, not from the top.
Bryan, yes,
it saves time having to constantly re zero the dial, and having to re-measure as a reference.
had used it previously with the hand dial, but at times had to measure due to loosing count of the number of turns of the dial.
had a written a reference chart for each mm from 150mm o.d. to 10mm o.d and it's hand dial readout.
when using it with the 3 jaw chuck, the hand dial was set to 7.40mm, so that the dial was reading zero when the tool tip was on center.
only measured the work when it was about 0.1 mm from it's final O.D.
still set the hand dial when using the DRO as a backup, in case the cheap DRO has a faulty reading.
the DRO makes it easier not having to keep count of the hand dial turns.
had tested it using the carbide tooling, and found it to be within 0.02mm, from repeated tests, though i take a measurement when with in 0.05 mm of the final cut when using the carbide tooling.
had unusual results when using HSS, not due to the reference system, but due to a build up of crap on the HSS tip which caused it at times to cut 0.2 mm deeper, though it's noticable when this happens, as the cuts gets rough.
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23rd January 2012, 05:19 PM #23Awaiting Email Confirmation
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Dave, once the dro is zeroed, it is not wound to the center then re zeroed,
had considered this, but at times the lathe is set up making it more complicated to move the tail stock / carriage back e.t.c. to get the tooling on center for re zeroing.
the idea was to save time each time the tooling was moved or changed, thought it would be quicker to look at a reference chart.
when the DRO reads 70mm the o.d would be 20mm, e.t.c..
a reference chart for each mm of O.D. will be used.
it can be re zeroed at 80mm when boring, this was the reason for using left handed boring bars, so once the DRO is zeroed at the chuck reference point, when the cross slide is wound in 80 mm it would be zeroed so 10mm on the dro readout would be a 20mm bore.
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23rd January 2012, 05:26 PM #24Dave J Guest
I see what you mean, and setting it up all different way for different jobs could get confusing, so best to stick to one way.
Dave
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