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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    emerald
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    28

    Default

    Heat and springs aren't really a good combination.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Hi kraits,
    Works for me, though I think I would have the index plate on the same side as the handle. Just wondering if the sliding shaft in the butterfly would soot up? I may of course be worried about nothing.
    Also (if we are being picky on a drawing that may only be a representation of what you are thinking) you have 180 degrees of adjustment you only need 90 right? I'd also match the handle to the butterfly rather than being 90degrees out.

    How many adjustment points to you think you would like?

    Stuart

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Tas
    Age
    66
    Posts
    40

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    Looks like you have a way of moving forward. It's more elaborate than I would do it, but then my skills are well short of what you can achieve (from the wonderful pictures you posted ealier).

    Having said that it might be worth remembering that the more that can go wrong, then the more likely that something will.

    Good luck with it and I'd love to see the final result

    Tony

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,794

    Default

    Here is an alternative for you. Similar to yours but it uses Stustoys ide and it gets the spring further away from the flue.


  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Roxby Downs Sth Aust
    Age
    47
    Posts
    254

    Default

    Stuart, right about the 180 degrees, good pic up, had you not noticed i probably would have gone ahead and gone the extra 90 degrees, which wouldn't have created any problems other than wasting time drilling a few extra holes and i could always of said it was intentional and come up with a reason for it
    as for the indexing plate been on the handle side or not i dont think is all that relevant but could be taken into consideration, purely to see what looks better.whats
    important is the slide mechanism inside the elbow. ive forund that when working with these kinda things leave plenty of slack for rust and crap to build up in but,in this case too slack will almost defeat the whole purpose of going to these lenghts.im leaning towards stainless for the sleeve and rod, the valve plate can be mild steel.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Roxby Downs Sth Aust
    Age
    47
    Posts
    254

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Here is an alternative for you. Similar to yours but it uses Stustoys ide and it gets the spring further away from the flue.

    now your thinking, thats alot easier then my idea and i think it would look pretty good too if its done right, thanks bob, i think i will give it a go first and if for any reason it has problems i will let you know.
    cheers
    greg

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne, laverton
    Posts
    1,469

    Default a gland

    hi how about where the buttifly goes thru the flue weld a small bit of pipe with a thread
    on the outer side. rap some heat freadly packing around the buttifly Vv shaft and hold it tight with a glad nut screwed into the gland thread. this will put pressure
    on the Vv shaft and hold it from unwanted turning. ill try to draw it

  9. #23
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,557

    Default

    So much complexity! Mine (it's home-made but not by me) has the shaft sitting in a slot, then the flue is slotted such that the weight of it sits on the shaft, rather than bottoming in the socket. It doesn't move on its own!

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Roxby Downs Sth Aust
    Age
    47
    Posts
    254

    Default

    thanks bryan, but im not 100% with you, any chance you could sketch up a drawing or attach a pic of it? ive got the next 5 days off work so after ive finished cleaning the shed im going to make a few spares up for future projets, so any ideas would be appreciated.
    cheers

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,680

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    So much complexity! Mine (it's home-made but not by me) has the shaft sitting in a slot, then the flue is slotted such that the weight of it sits on the shaft, rather than bottoming in the socket. It doesn't move on its own!
    I'd thought you'd make something like a motorised valve so it can be hooked up electrically and do it all automatically

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Roxby Downs Sth Aust
    Age
    47
    Posts
    254

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    I'd thought you'd make something like a motorised valve so it can be hooked up electrically and do it all automatically
    too easy, why don't i just build a steam engine into the pot belly and power the valve on steam.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Roxby Downs Sth Aust
    Age
    47
    Posts
    254

    Default

    thanks for all the ideas, in particular to BOBL, i went with his suggested design and although its a little rough it works well, during the week i will refine it and fit the final lever to a pot belly thats due to picked up next weekend.
    thanks again.

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