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Thread: pot belly butterfly valve
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26th June 2011, 10:52 AM #16Intermediate Member
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Heat and springs aren't really a good combination.
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26th June 2011 10:52 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th June 2011, 11:09 AM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Hi kraits,
Works for me, though I think I would have the index plate on the same side as the handle. Just wondering if the sliding shaft in the butterfly would soot up? I may of course be worried about nothing.
Also (if we are being picky on a drawing that may only be a representation of what you are thinking) you have 180 degrees of adjustment you only need 90 right? I'd also match the handle to the butterfly rather than being 90degrees out.
How many adjustment points to you think you would like?
Stuart
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26th June 2011, 11:16 AM #18Intermediate Member
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Looks like you have a way of moving forward. It's more elaborate than I would do it, but then my skills are well short of what you can achieve (from the wonderful pictures you posted ealier).
Having said that it might be worth remembering that the more that can go wrong, then the more likely that something will.
Good luck with it and I'd love to see the final result
Tony
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26th June 2011, 11:38 AM #19.
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Here is an alternative for you. Similar to yours but it uses Stustoys ide and it gets the spring further away from the flue.
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26th June 2011, 11:48 AM #20son of a blacksmith
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Stuart, right about the 180 degrees, good pic up, had you not noticed i probably would have gone ahead and gone the extra 90 degrees, which wouldn't have created any problems other than wasting time drilling a few extra holes and i could always of said it was intentional and come up with a reason for it
as for the indexing plate been on the handle side or not i dont think is all that relevant but could be taken into consideration, purely to see what looks better.whats
important is the slide mechanism inside the elbow. ive forund that when working with these kinda things leave plenty of slack for rust and crap to build up in but,in this case too slack will almost defeat the whole purpose of going to these lenghts.im leaning towards stainless for the sleeve and rod, the valve plate can be mild steel.
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26th June 2011, 11:53 AM #21son of a blacksmith
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26th June 2011, 12:16 PM #22GOLD MEMBER
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a gland
hi how about where the buttifly goes thru the flue weld a small bit of pipe with a thread
on the outer side. rap some heat freadly packing around the buttifly Vv shaft and hold it tight with a glad nut screwed into the gland thread. this will put pressure
on the Vv shaft and hold it from unwanted turning. ill try to draw it
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27th June 2011, 11:33 PM #23Distracted Member
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So much complexity! Mine (it's home-made but not by me) has the shaft sitting in a slot, then the flue is slotted such that the weight of it sits on the shaft, rather than bottoming in the socket. It doesn't move on its own!
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28th June 2011, 08:01 AM #24son of a blacksmith
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thanks bryan, but im not 100% with you, any chance you could sketch up a drawing or attach a pic of it? ive got the next 5 days off work so after ive finished cleaning the shed im going to make a few spares up for future projets, so any ideas would be appreciated.
cheers
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28th June 2011, 08:20 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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28th June 2011, 09:41 AM #26son of a blacksmith
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3rd July 2011, 04:28 PM #27son of a blacksmith
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thanks for all the ideas, in particular to BOBL, i went with his suggested design and although its a little rough it works well, during the week i will refine it and fit the final lever to a pot belly thats due to picked up next weekend.
thanks again.
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