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Thread: Precision level adjustment
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1st September 2014, 08:16 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Precision level adjustment
Hi all.
I just took posession of a new (to me) precision level. Its a Fujita, made in Japan and it was about the same price as a new level from CTC Tools. Its in reasonable condition and im happy with it. I would like to fine tune it and adjust it so that it actually reads level but im not sure which screws to adjust. There appears to be 3 screws, one on the top and 2 on the side. Any ideas? I have a tendency to fiddle with things and not actually know what im doing which can sometimes end in tears!
An internet search shows little about this brand or the level other than the company website.
Any info or ideas would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Simonuploadfromtaptalk1409562891614.jpguploadfromtaptalk1409562904238.jpguploadfromtaptalk1409562915614.jpgGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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1st September 2014, 08:19 PM #2Pink 10EE owner
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Taking that cover off will reveal all.. Some levels have adjustment in two planes... up/down and sideways...
It is a very sensitive one @ 0.02mm/mLight red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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1st September 2014, 09:30 PM #3
Are you planning on buying some shoes as well Simon?
Dean
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1st September 2014, 11:03 PM #4
Hi Simon,
Adjust so that the bubble is centered when you reverse it 180 degrees on a flat stable surface. I know that sounds easy... but trust me it's not. If the surface isn't flat or stable you are going to struggle.
First thing you need is to make sure the bottom of the level is flat, Blue it against a known flat surface, like a surface plate, and if need be scrape it in.
Then start the end for end reversal.. when you get that right, you can check the scaling by putting shims under one end and seeing how far the bubble moves. One division should be 0.02 mm per meter
Have fun... !
Ray
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1st September 2014, 11:20 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks guys. Ill remove the cover and have a look. Yes its very sensitive, probably more than I need as I have a Starrett 98 which serves me well but.....
Anyway ill blue it up and put it on my small plate tomorrow. The base looks reasonable.
Ha! Shoes. I wondered if anyone would pick up on any background stuff!
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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2nd September 2014, 10:54 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Hi all,
I removed the the cover and took a look. A rather simple arrangement consisting of aluminium tabs that attach to the vial. I was expecting something a little more elaborate. Given the sensitivity of the level, I would have thought a more temperature stable type of mounting system. It shows signs of being mucked around with in the past since no two mounting screws are the same! In any case, I can't see it affecting my type of use. I'm sure it will produce repeatable results, yet I have not tested for this yet.
I blued up the base and checked it's flatness. A good result it seems. The base shows consistent contact across the entire contact surface. At first I thought it may have been a false reading from too my blue on the plate, but several tests showed the same result.
20140902_140137.jpg20140902_135939.jpg20140902_135951.jpg
Thanks for your help guys,
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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3rd September 2014, 12:14 AM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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You do appear to have a lot of bluing compound there Simon, but I will wait to see what some of the more experienced scrapers have to say, rather than pass judgement myself. It may pay to try a very light coating, perhaps only 10% of the compound that you have shown in the photo, because you need to be able to see the cast iron under the blue to establish how even the surface is. What have you used as bluing compound, and how thick is it in the viscous sense? If it is pretty stiff, you may be able to thin it down with some petrolium jelly, and try it again, but in your photo it looks like it could be slathered on half a mm thick±. I have very limited experience in bluing and scraping so it will be interesting to see what the gurus like Phil Machtool and some of the others have to say. I hope that it all ends up tickety boo for you though. Cheers,
Rob
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3rd September 2014, 08:13 AM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Rob,
I thought the same thing as you so I did it several times with the blue thinned out more and more yet I got the same results. Maybe I still have too much, I'm a bit rusty! I also find that blueing a ground surface is harder to get a good result compared to a hand scraped surface.
The blue I used is my own mix, or should I say it's Marco's mix. It may need a tad of oil to thin it down.
Cheers,
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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3rd September 2014, 09:05 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi again Simon, the ground surface from what I understand certainly could be part of the problem in getting a good reading of your bluing. As I recall from my time at scraping class, Phill Machtool said hat the first operation was to do a quick all over scraping of a ground surface followed by a quick wipe with a stone to remove any burrs, just so you could read the bluing. Marco's blue mix would be good, although it may still be a little thick, but I feel the most likely issue that you have is trying to read a ground surface. Of course it may already be in good nick, if so there will be no gross irregularities which stand out like the proverbial sore thumb. Hopefully some of the more experienced boys will jump in with a comment to help you on the way. Good luck with it anyway,
Rob.
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