Thread: Press jig, what for?

This is what the press plate looks like.
$_57-10.JPG$_57-11.JPG$_57-13.JPG

The shank on for mine must be much larger given the hole size in the base.



For pressing bushing do you use a brass tip?

and for pressing broaches do I ned a hardened tip for the arbour?





I'm still looking for a 5 ton or greater flypress if anyone knows of one available.

Nice press.

I'd love to buy one if I can ever find one and at a reasonable price. I have just the job needed for one and need the bigger work area/bite. I've been abusing my vice for the job but its a job for a press like that.

Enjoy

No need for a hardened end when broaching.

The tool you have with the sprung loaded plunger suggests to me as being a punch for punching holes in thin metal.

I'd say you drill a pilot hole in your sheet the same dia as the sprung loaded pin and use the pin to centre the large hole.

I'm convinced of this with the shape of the end of the punch. The bevelled section will strike the metal first making shearing the rest of the hole a breeze.

Ken

Thanks pipeckay. Ill try and turn one up at some stage.

Neksmerj, the sprung loaded section mates with the base and the hex perfect so it is a two piece operation. Not sure how the base fits in with sheetmetal

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Now that I have cleaned most of it up, what is the best way to deal with the rust where the paint is chipped without stripping it all back?



Due to the jig it is missing the original press plate which will be interesting to make without the use of a mill. I guess drill and cut the slots with a Hacksaw.

I would just touch it up with something like Hamerite, but from what I can see it looks pretty good already. Bare metal which you have polished or de-rusted with emery tape say, could be given a hit with fish oil or lanotec to keep rust away. The push plate can be easily replicated by marking out some suitable steel plate, 16mm or 19mm say, and drilling holes with the diameters identical to the width of the slots, then cutting the circular shape with a cutting disc in an angle grinder, and finishing with a bench grinder (preferably). Then using a cutting wheel , cut the slots into the previously drilled holes which will terminate the slots. Finishing could be done with either an angle grinder or files, depending on how good a finish you want. If you don't have a decent drill press, or access to one you may be better off using hole saws for the wider slots, but I would use cutting lube and keep the hole saw speed down, otherwise the holesaw won't last long on thick plate. Oxy acetylene could also be another good roughing tool to do the preliminary metal shaping.
She looks to be coming along nicely, and I wouldn't be too concerned with a few extra tooling holes, there is plenty of metal left to maintain strength. Nice acquisition and good luck,
Rob

If you don't want to see the holes, measure the depth and then cut bolts/all thread to suit, leaving about a millimetre longer than required, screw them in with loctite if required, then peen the remainder over, and file flush to dress it up. Someone I know, who restored a KB International Truck, used this method to repair a cracked engine block, by over laying the threaded rod.
Kryn

Rob, I have already put lanotec on the newly cleaned bright parts. I'm just wondering about treating the rusty patches where the paint is chipped. I will then at some time in the nearish future give it a respray with some hammertone paint. I won't worry about filling the chips on this one though prior.

Kryn, That is a good idea. I may actually do a half way measure. As the hole pass allthe way through the base I may get some allthread and make some long grubscrews and screw them up from the underside so they are flush with the top. That way they can always be screwed out if I need to fit a jig and I won't have to add any extra holes.

Cheers.

For a better idea how the two mate.

The last picture makes me wonder if the tool is to slightly deform a nut to make it self locking?

Pete

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

The last picture makes me wonder if the tool is to slightly deform a nut to make it self locking?

Pete

I thought the same when this was first posted but after seeing the last photo I doubt that is the case. I have seen some self locking nuts with three round indentations directly on the flat of the hex causing the material to deform the internal thread slightly making it into a crude self locking nut but the small round punch on this tool works on an angle to the flat and would do little to deform the I/D not to mention the side load put on a very narrow punch.

Flatten off a locking tab perhaps?

It could be for witnessing nuts.
Any time I do a job for a customer that requires me to do keep quality assurance records I mark every nut and bolt that I replace with 2 center pop marks. That way if and when said job returns I can see if anyone has been playing with it and caused the problem themselves..
So it could have been set up to witness mark many nuts in one sitting.
Just a thought for the tank.


Matt

Way back in the 50's, 60's, before the invention of special locking nuts on race motorcycles, axle nuts were wired on front and rear, a small hole drilled through at an angle on the nut matched a hole on the axle, a wire was then passed through and wound. Both axles were done this way, petrol tank caps were required to have two springs either side of the metal cap and fastened onto the flashing of the tank. Perhaps that special die could have been used to punch the nut before drilling the hole through. Just my thoughts.

DD