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Thread: Your latest project
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17th November 2010, 02:11 PM #76Dave J Guest
That came up good and will save any dents, I bet the rotation doesn't line up every time like in the video.lol
It beats my bit of 200x20mm flat pine board I have.
I always tilt my chuck a bit and put the bottom cam lock pin in to take a bit of the weight, then bring it up to the other 2.
I still have to make the chuck lifters for my crane, will get around to it one day.
Dave
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17th November 2010 02:11 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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17th November 2010, 02:33 PM #77GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Dave
I still have a piece of pine for the 3 jaw and face plate.
The plan for rotation alignment is to make another slide for the 3 jaw and have it locate the spindle at the same point of rotation when removing the 3 jaw. There is a pine block locating the rotation of the 4 jaw that you can see in the last picture.
Thats the plan. no idea how well it will work lol.
Stuart
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17th November 2010, 02:37 PM #78
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17th November 2010, 02:48 PM #79GOLD MEMBER
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lol I never said it was pretty Chris
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25th November 2010, 03:21 PM #80Senior Member
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Your Latest Project
Here is my latest project, I saw this idea on another forum some time ago and have just recently found time to make it. Sure saves time tramming the head on the mill. A couple of cheap dial gauges $8-50 each from CTC Tooling and a bit of time on the lathe and mill and you have a very handy tool.
Bob
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25th November 2010, 03:26 PM #81
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25th November 2010, 03:30 PM #82GOLD MEMBER
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Nicely done Bob. If I ever get an ER chuck I'll be making myself one.
Stuart
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25th November 2010, 04:20 PM #83Senior Member
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Your Latest Project
Polie,
It is easy to calibrate it, you just select a clear area on your mill table, fit the tramming devise into your collet and snug it up then lower it down by raising the table so that one gauge only touches the surface and deflects the indicator a little bit,I just sent it round the dial to just past the 12 oclock position. Tighten that gauge in position with the clamping allen screw that you can see, then lock the Z axis gibs up, rotate that dials bezel to read zero.You now need to have your mill spindle in the neutral position so that it rotates easily, lift the first dials pointer that you just locked in place and rotate the tramming devise 180 degrees so that the second dial can be set up on the exact same place as the first one was.You will have to walk around to the back or side of your mill to read the gauge square on.Now just lower the second gauge down until it touches the surface and winds on to approximately the same position as the first dial, tighten the allen screw and then rotate the bezel until it reads zero. Both dials do not have to be exactly in line it just looks nicer if they are,as long as they are both reading zero on the same spot on the table.Then you tighten the small bezel locking screw on both dials and you are set. Remember these are delicate instruments and have to be handled and used carefully to obtain accurate readings.
Bob
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25th November 2010, 04:34 PM #84GOLD MEMBER
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25th November 2010, 04:48 PM #85Dave J Guest
Looks good Bob.
Dave
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25th November 2010, 05:29 PM #86GOLD MEMBER
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Great work
you guys make it look so easy
might even give it ago ...soon...I need to get a couple of DI's tho for this project...have to wait till pay day again
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25th November 2010, 09:27 PM #87GOLD MEMBER
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Not exactly a metalworking project but definitely metalworking related.
Finally! finished off the Shumatech DRO for the X2 mill.
This has been 'mostly finished for a while and was just waiting for the front overlay which arrived today.
I did manage to stick the overlay down about 1mm to the right of where it should go.
I'll make sure I get it right with the next one of these I build or rather finish building - all I have to do is to drill the case and wire it up and then find somewhere to put it.
I'll have to check out some cheap scales for the lathe.Geoff
The view from home
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25th November 2010, 10:53 PM #88Dave J Guest
That come up looking good, it will make milling a lot easier, without having to count hand wheel revolutions.
Dave
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26th November 2010, 07:21 PM #89Product designer retired
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Hi Snowy,
That looks great. I have had a few private words with Bigshed re the Sieg X2 mill. I'm anxious to learn more about this mill. Your opinion, and opinions from others, would be appreciated.
Ken
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27th November 2010, 09:32 AM #90
X2 Minimill
Ken, I bought an X2 clone about 2 years ago and it all works OK. I have fitted a belt drive to my machine, added a spindle lock and also fitted a couple of coverted digital verniers to easily measure the Y and Z travel.
Bear in mind that it is a pretty small mill and the going is slow in steel but OK in lighter stuff like aluminium.
Here is a thread that may have some useful information https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ne...49/index2.html
I'd say, all in all and price considered, the X2 is a good starting point to get into milling operations, if you only seeing yourself milling smaller pieces or you dont mind having to take many shallow cuts in harder materials. However, if you want to mill up larger stuff and want to be able to take deep cuts in steel etc, then I'd recommend spending the extra cash and getting something bigger with more grunt.The first step towards knowledge is to know that we are ignorant.
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