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  1. #1
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    Default Quick test of Cermet CCMT inserts

    Andrew_mx83 in another thread suggested using cermet inserts....

    Quote Originally Posted by BT
    Andrew,

    After your listing of the merits of Cermet I had a look and found these - 10pcs Kyocera Ceratip CCMT09T304HQ TN60 Cermet Inserts | eBay The correct geometry and size for my holders but I'm wondering how they would perform with only one horsepower on tap. Any clues?

    Bob.

    I followed BT's lead and got some the same... they arrived last week...

    The temperature has dropped to almost bearable today, so Josh had a go with some BMS bar stock.

    IMG_00242.jpgIMG_00232.jpgIMG_0022.jpg

    So far so good, the real test will come as far as durability goes.

    Ray

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  3. #2
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Hi Ray,
    You got that cool change yet? It hit here about 3:00 this arvo.....damn it was nice! From 39-22deg in about 1/2 an hour.

    Can you tell us what size bar, speed feed and DOC? I am pretty happy with the WNMG's i use but if you can good finishes with small DOC's that would be really good.....

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Good stuff Ray. Looks as though you may want to increase the spindle speed a bit, if you have it. Are the chips in the background from that cut? If so you are going way too slow. The chips really should be blue...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Ray,
    You got that cool change yet? It hit here about 3:00 this arvo.....damn it was nice! From 39-22deg in about 1/2 an hour.

    Can you tell us what size bar, speed feed and DOC? I am pretty happy with the WNMG's i use but if you can good finishes with small DOC's that would be really good.....

    Cheers,
    Ew
    Hi Ewan,

    Yes cool change came through earlier, I was reading the brick paving temperature just outside the workshop.. Thursday Afternoon.. Max 64C or 147F, actual recorded high was 44C 111F

    IMG_0619.jpg

    I'll do some more scientific tests later and try different speeds and feeds, but that was a fairly heavy cut, the chips were blue, but didn't break.. I wouldn't swap them for the WNMG's just yet, I think they will be a bit tougher as far as chipping goes... time will tell.

    Ray

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew_mx83 View Post
    Good stuff Ray. Looks as though you may want to increase the spindle speed a bit, if you have it. Are the chips in the background from that cut? If so you are going way too slow. The chips really should be blue...
    Hi Andrew,

    The swarf under the lathe, just needs to be cleaned out... the chips were coming off blue on a fairly heavy cut... but this lathe is not super rigid..

    Ray

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    Lol, that's not a heavy cut. Crank up the speed and lay into it )

  8. #7
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    'That's not a knife...'


    This is a knife...

    20mm BMS down to 11mm, one cut. Approx 1600rpm, hafco al960b, no powerfeed. The finish is #### as it was the first cut and the tool and material were both cold. Cant cut any deeper or the bar chatters.

    Quick 0.1 cleanup cut, everything still cold

  9. #8
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    Hi Andrew,

    What's the minimum speed you can run and still get reasonable finish?

    Ray

  10. #9
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    Hi Ray i rarely drop the lathe out of top gear -1400rpm. Next step down is 900 which doesnt cut as well or leave as good a finish. For the small stuff i use the VFD to increase speed over 1400. I have to make a large part from 150dia ally tomorrow, we will see if i have to drop the speed at all but i doubt it.

    Basically just run it as fast as you can...

  11. #10
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    Andrew and Ray,

    I haven't bought any Cermets yet, I've been preoccupied with another purchase.

    I'm wondering if you had a piece of 4140 you could perform a demonstration on Andrew?

    Bob.

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    .... and take a little video while you are doing it, PLEASE
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  13. #12
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    Dont have any known 4140 yet sorry. I have plenty of very hard steel, but i bought a bulk lot of scrap bar stock some time back (at $0.10/lb!) so im not 100% on any of the grades unfortunately.

    Was too busy to go looking for steel today anyway, making this bad boy. It was however just a test piece, and it fits well so it looks like ill be making 4 of them soon enough, and the guy has spec'd 4140 at this stage. That‘s gonna be haaaarrrrdddd work.... we're currently debating if 7075 will be strong enough (not likely)

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew_mx83 View Post
    Dont have any known 4140 yet sorry. I have plenty of very hard steel, but i bought a bulk lot of scrap bar stock some time back (at $0.10/lb!) so im not 100% on any of the grades unfortunately.

    Was too busy to go looking for steel today anyway, making this bad boy. It was however just a test piece, and it fits well so it looks like ill be making 4 of them soon enough, and the guy has spec'd 4140 at this stage. That‘s gonna be haaaarrrrdddd work.... we're currently debating if 7075 will be strong enough (not likely)
    Let me guess - bolt on centrelock adaptor for a porsche?
    7075 will be plenty for the adaptor part, not sure how the 7075 will go for thread life though...

  15. #14
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    Wow, good guess. It is for a Toyota not a Porsche but you still get 10 points. The 300mm slicks are ex Porsche-cup, so i guess that counts.
    The brakes on this thing are so big the only wheels he could get to clear were v8 supercar ones, lol

    Yes the thread is our main concern if we go for ally, but they end up bloody heavy out of cro-mo (3kg vs 1.1kg)
    The wheelnuts are ally, but easier to replace i spose. Spec calls for the nut to be done upto 600nm!!

  16. #15
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    Ah, looked at the spacing of the pins, not the holes - P-cars have an unusually large pcd...

    Cro-mo spigot/thread, with a ~5-10mm flange, and the 7075 drive pins/spacer shrunk on over the outside? The wheelnuts onto the original studs will clamp it all beautifully.
    Of course, if it was me, I'd be machining new hubs from scratch to remove the need for the ~50mm spacer and make the whole lot lighter...

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