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15th September 2013, 05:01 PM #1Philomath in training
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Recommendations on carbide parting tools please
I was parting some bar (externally threaded), something slipped and I had a catastrophic parting incident -
P1010878 (Medium).JPG
A good tip is on the left, the busted on on the right. However, I also dinged up the tip of my parting tool. Previously when I've done this I've welded it up with a hard electrode a tool maker gave me once (I think he called it a fox(?) electrode) shaped it with a grinder and off I go. However, this repair has happened several times and I'm almost out of inserts so I thought that I'd ask whether anyone has a good carbide parting tip that is not too expensive - I may change systems if there is a better one out there. This system is a Taegutec arrangement and works reasonably well but the tips are not cheap. In theory these inserts are meant to be double ended but once then end breaks off there is nothing to hold them in position.
Anything out there that members would recommend?
Michael
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15th September 2013 05:01 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th September 2013, 05:28 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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- Oct 2010
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- melbourne, laverton
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parting
hi Michael. how did the job fair?
I use braised parting tools a lot like these ones.
Buy Lathe Parting Off Blades 264 P30 C/bide p/ting bit RS 29-844-335 online from RS for next day delivery.
mainly because i had a heap.
they don't have a big reach like some other tools
i have found i can almost part with confidence.
when i was an apprentice we could only use hhs parting tools
we all ways got the job done. i used to all ways nerves vice about
parting.
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15th September 2013, 06:18 PM #3Cba
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- Aug 2007
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- Melbourne
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Michael, these carbide insert parting blades are a great thing. Make parting real easy.
The downside is that the blade is expensive, and the inserts are expensive, and the toolholder to clamp the blade is also expensive. And to make things worse, it appears that each maker applies some subtle differences to its system, no doubt to make sure you cannot mix components and use the inserts from another maker.
What this means for you, if you still have a stock of these inserts, you are better off purchasing again the same size/brand of blade. Else you have to write off your insert stock. If this is not a concern, you can purchase any of the many brands making such parting systems. From time to time, such items turn up "New Old Stock" on eBay at a fraction of new cost. I bought two such parting blades with 2 boxes of inserts like this for under $100, when someone in Melbourne was selling off an entire dealer inventory of Plansee tools and inserts. Chris
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15th September 2013, 06:56 PM #4Pink 10EE owner
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- Aug 2008
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- near Rockhampton
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The blade is a consumable like the inserts... That is why it is double ended...
I do not use that style I have a 4mm one of these GTN types SPB PARTING/CUT-OFF BLADE FOR GTN INSERTS #L71
Along with these inserts KORLOY GTN PARTING INSERT FOR STAINLESS STEEL (BOX OF 10 PCS) #L73
This is for my 17" swing 2 tonne lathe...
When I had my Hafco AL1000C lathe I had the same style except it was 3mm width and had no problems with it.... I had to go to 4mm with the bigger lathe as it was just eating the small 3mm inserts... Too much power for them....
I worked on a blade lasting ten or so inserts.. Depending on the number of crashes it had had....Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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15th September 2013, 07:14 PM #5
Hi Michael,
I get some pretty good crashes from Seco holders and inserts..
After a bad crash the holder is usually toast as well... as RC says they are double ended for a reason.
Haven't had a crash parting off for ages now, so maybe the technique is getting better
Regards
Ray
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15th September 2013, 07:38 PM #6Philomath in training
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- Oct 2011
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- Adelaide
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- 3,149
Once I picked the embedded piece of carbide out, I managed to finish parting off with some HSS. A crash like that knocks everything out of alignment though
The good insert in the photo is my last one
These blades aren't double ended - only insert is. As it stands I now need to patch up the blade and buy more inserts or buy a new blade and some inserts. Because the crashes tend to twist the blade, I'm thinking a new blade may be worth while - this one probably has been with me for at least 5 to 6 years and has carried 15 to 20 inserts, so on RC's reckoning it probably doesn't owe me much.
Michael
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15th September 2013, 09:37 PM #7Senior Member
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- May 2010
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- rural s.a.
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- 120
Hi Michael, My lathe is only small (can turn 250mm diam.) & for a number of years I have been using Mitsubish parting blade & inserts. I don't do a lot of parting but have parted 50mm diam mild steel with power feed. The tool holder is definitely double ended. I have only had 1 crash & the holder survived. The agent is Adelaide based & extremely helpful. If you want more details let me know.
tinkera
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15th September 2013, 11:06 PM #8Senior Member
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- Feb 2013
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- Laidley, SE Qld
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- 368
I'm using 1/8" Kennametal A2 holders and inserts at the moment, they work OK. When I run out of them I have an Iscar holder and inserts that I got off ebay a while ago. When I get through them I think I'll be looking at CTC's offerings, a holder and 10 blades for $100 or so is not a bad deal.
http://www.kennametal.com/content/da...utoff_inch.pdf
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15th September 2013, 11:45 PM #9
Hi Michael,
I have Iscar GFN2J inserts, 2mm wide. Like so many they are brand specific and not cheap. I am on the second box of insert for the holder, and one end is already no good. Once the inserts are gone (or the blade goes) i'll be trying a cheaper option.
Having said that i generally use HSS for parting, i find now the Mars is scraped in i don't have many problems. The biggest problem is lack of torque with the belt drive, the smallest dig in will slip a belt. I don't use the power feed either, due to the huge difference in feed rates for the sliding and surfacing and no QCGB it just takes too long to set up.
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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16th September 2013, 11:15 AM #10Chief Swarf Maker
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- Aug 2013
- Location
- Melbourne
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- 163
I think i have a couple of (used) tips like that i could send to get you out of trouble in the meantime. If you get some numbers or dimensions ill have a look.
I really need to fork out for a proper carbide setup, im still parting with hss, dont have any issues upto 50mm dia in alloy or 40mm in steel but im too chicken to use power feed...
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16th September 2013, 06:16 PM #11
Another thing I thought of this morning is types of steel. Any operation can be made harder or easyer depending on the steel type. This seems to be more of a factor with parting than anything else. Give me 1020 or 1030, o-1 etc and I can get continuous ribbons of swarf. Black bar or unknown gummy steel though and it can be a nightmare.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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16th September 2013, 06:23 PM #12
Interesting read guys
I have been using HSS with cobalt 5% with little trouble. Have not got around to insert on parting but use them on cutting.
Where the best place to get HSS parting blades from?
Rvapourforge.com
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17th September 2013, 08:49 AM #13Member
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- Dec 2010
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- Melbourne
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- 56
There was some videos on turning a TCT saw into a few pieces of parting tool. Find it on YouTube.
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17th September 2013, 11:06 AM #14Senior Member
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- Feb 2013
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- Laidley, SE Qld
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- 368
Which reminds me. Straight after I bought my new Kennametal parting holder and tips, (Bolts & Industrial had a screaming deal at the time, holder and 20 tips for $200), I read on HSM that "real men part off under power".
I promptly broke 1 jaw off my brand new parting tool holder and I'm still finding brown lumps some distance from the lathe. Needless to say I'm now firmly in the wimp camp.
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17th September 2013, 01:42 PM #15Chief Swarf Maker
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- Aug 2013
- Location
- Melbourne
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- 163
I find the trick with hss parting larger diameters is that you need to pull out right before it starts to grab, let the chips clear and the blade to cool (shrink) for a couple of seconds then get back into it. On big cuts i may do this 2 or 3 times, as the ear tells me it needs to be done.
You cant really do that on power feed.
And of course lots of lube....
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