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Thread: Recycling oil
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10th January 2012, 10:17 PM #31SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Stu, I understand car filters are just there for the bigger stuff, i.e. they still don't trap the carbon. I used to have a whole series of graduated filter papers once down to 3 micron which would have let me work out the approximate particle size but not anymore. Just as an example I used to polish plastic lenses with 3 micron aluminium oxide so even 3 micron can be abrasive in the right circumstances.
The centrifuge video has the mixed input in red and green right up the centre axis and the blue and yellow are two output liquids of different specific gravity so it separates three materials. The cone is the cool part in my opinion as it lets you remove the solids past the liquid level with the auger continuously.
I understand the tackifiers are rosin based but I tried to dissolve some pale rosin in oil with no luck as an experiment. I've been using the Gulf Western chain bar oil from Supercheap ($24 for 4L) as it has so much tackifier it doesn't fling off my open change gears on the little Advance lathe, you can see these little cobwebby strings of oil get pulled back as the gear teeth unmesh. For the other lathes I dilute it 50:50 with 32 hydraulic oil on the ways.
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10th January 2012 10:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th January 2012, 10:32 PM #32Distracted Member
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Ok the 200v unit is a non-starter. I suppose you could re-motor it, but that could turn into a headache. And it seems silly when there's already 4 neddies cantering along at 1400 rpm and a spare sheave on the pulley.
I don't know what to think about the viscosity issue. If I use a big filter like a Z9, maybe the large surface area will be ok?
RC you crystalised an idea that I was trying to form about tackifiers.
How does one calculate the pressure and flow rate required to lubricate a certain machine? Just provide plenty and include a relief valve would be one approach I guess. But you need to spec the valve. Time for some web trawling...
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10th January 2012, 10:40 PM #33SENIOR MEMBER
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There nothing wrong with running a lower voltage three phase motor on a higher voltage using an inverter if you program the inverter to limit the current to the motor. It's kind of complicated to explain about the inductance of the motor winding averaging out the pulsating PWM output from the inverter but it works. I think it would be fine to run a 200VAC three phase off a single to three phase 240V inverter unit once the current limits are set.
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11th January 2012, 07:26 PM #34Senior Member
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Why not use an old Holden oil pump with a Ryco filter attached and power it by a 1/4 HP single phase motor?
You could set it up under a tank(say a 20 litre drum) with the motor on a bracket above the tank and then divert the oil to a second tank (another 20 litre drum) using the pressure relief valve opening.
You would need to block off the original pump outlet to force the oil out of the relief valve.
The 1/4HP motor is most likely lying around your workshop anyway and the oil pump wouldn't cost much from a wrecker or odds are you know of an old Holden engine laying around anyway.
This would cost 2/3 of BA.
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11th January 2012, 11:17 PM #35Distracted Member
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Zuffen I'm liking your approach. I don't have a car oil pump lying around but I do have a motorbike one. I don't quite understand why you would use the relief valve. Would the normal outlet not be ok? I'm not familiar with Holden oil pumps. And why pump to another drum? After it does its job I want it to return to the same reservoir don't I? Assuming there's some sort of filter in the loop.
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12th January 2012, 06:50 AM #36Philomath in training
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Bryan, I think the catch drum is a good idea. I mentioned in post 28 a common suggestion is to heat up the oil to lower the viscosity - less effort to get it through the filter. However, for a machine you want it thick. Therefore unless you want to run a heat exchanger to cool the oil, letting it sit is not a bad idea.
Michael
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12th January 2012, 07:20 AM #37Senior Member
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Michael,
I only suggested aHolden pump because it bolted to the side of the block and was a "package". You would need to use the relief valve if you wanted to use a separate tank.
If using the same tank you would need to return the oil as far away from the inlet to the pump as you could to stop recirculating some of the oil and not cleaning the rest.
Makes sense to use the same tank and just pump it around until it's clean. That way it gets to be filtered more than once.
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17th January 2012, 11:54 PM #38
Hi Bryan,
Was it you that picked up that pump on ebay?
SHOWA Lubrication System Pump LCB4 | eBay
I got this one...
SHOWA Lubrication System Tank & Pump SMA 6 10F | eBay
And a 7.5 Kw VFD
Inverter MITSUBISHI Frequency Control A200E Input 200-220V output 33 amp | eBay
There were a few nice 3D Taster's went for next to nothing as well..
Regards
Ray
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18th January 2012, 12:44 AM #39.
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18th January 2012, 01:01 AM #40
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18th January 2012, 09:25 AM #41Distracted Member
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Not me Ray, but well done you. Let us know what you think of the Showa. Are you thinking of your shaper? Just reading the specs: Devco©-Showa© Type SMA Automatic Cyclic Pump, it looks like 5 minutes is the shortest available time between squirts of 3-6 cc.
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