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Thread: Removing rust from sawbench
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30th September 2008, 01:35 PM #31Intermediate Member
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How about coating it in molasses and leaving it for a while. I have not done it myself but have seen the results. It takes all the iron oxide off the surface, even in the pits. Just wash it off with hot water and a scraper.
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14th October 2008, 06:08 PM #32
removing rust from sawbench
G'day Groggy and other contributors,
I am checking out the forum at work and noticed Groggy's question about whether the rusty sawbench had been fixed. The short answer is not yet. I have had a lot of infuriating interruptions since my first post in May like having to work, having to fart around in the garden for SWMBO and so on.
But, the rusty sawbench has been moved from its temporary home to its new home and I am hoping to start on it soon, which is why I was looking at this forum today, to revise what had been written back in May.
The bench is cast iron I think (I am a woody not a "metally") and the top of the bench is machined smooth. It doesn't rust normally, but when it was moved a couple of times it got rained on. My thoughts at this stage are to try wet and dry paper and kero and see how that goes. I am a bit wary of using power tools out of fear of gouging the top.
But I will post on the forum once I have cleaned it up ( or given up in a bad mood if it's too hard!!)
Thanks again for your interest and suggestions,
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15th October 2008, 11:44 AM #33
The rust on the cast iron is made from the actual iron from the surface itself (logical). What this means is that the surface of the table will be very finely pitted all over to some extent. To remove this rust without damaging the surface further, the best way of all is to sand blast it with very fine glass beads, (micro balloons). I bought a sand blasting gun from Bunnings for $20.00 and I use it for cleaning everything from lathe tools to wood and even aluminium surfaces on my boat. The secret of success is to use fine glass beads and keep the air pressure lower than normal. The resultant finish will be a very fine silver showing a smooth "textured" surface. This textured finish is created from the rust that has eaten into the cast iron and does not reflect any scouring or grinding by the glass beads. If you concider that the glass would be too harsh, (it's not), you can remove the rust using fine crushed shells from Queensland Nuts or Walnuts but it will take much longer to do. The glass beads work extremely well because they are actually tiny spheres and have no sharp edges to cut away the metal itself. Try this technique out on an area underneath the table and you will be amazed at how good it is.
Kody
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15th October 2008, 12:14 PM #34
Kody do you need to use the sand blasting gun in a special chamber or do you just use it in a corner of the shed. I thought sand blasting was a messy affair and was done in a confined area. If I can use it safely Ill be at bunnings this weekend and get one.
Cheers
Gene
Holden Hill Crash Repairs
607 North East Road
Gilles Plains South Australia 5086
(08) 8261-3979
[email protected]
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15th October 2008, 03:40 PM #35Home Hobbist
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footz,
There has been an OHS Inquiry into Sandblasting where there are changes to Sandblasting Equipment. This would be mainly aimed at Industrial Sector where there are employees carring out these duties, as for home type situations I cannot say.
With your expertize in Panel beating you maybe able to fabricate a cabinet that would meet with any Australian Standards for Sandblasting.
Regards,
Keith.
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15th October 2008, 05:56 PM #36
Hi Gene
I run the compressor inside the garage and run the air hose out the roller door and shut the door to leave it just clearing the hose. Yes, it is messy and you will go thru a lot of glass beads. I only use the glass beads when I dont want the surface damaged or eroded away. Most of the time, I use very fine sand that I pass thru a kitchen sieve. I always wear a full face shield, a common welding helmet is excellent, and aim the gun downwind. Some of the blasting media will get in your hair but I have never had any problems with eyes or breathing or contamination in the lungs. It just comes down to common sense (?) and how much you are doing. Blasting with fine sand is wonderful for cleaning the grill from the BBQ and parts off the boat trailer. The steel is left a dull grey colour and must be painted with cold gal. paint asap. Leave the cleaned steel or iron parts overnite and they will be rusty in the morning. After you use one, you will wonder what you did without it. The sand I use is about .005" to 0.010" in size.
Kody
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16th October 2008, 10:23 PM #37Senior Member
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- mid north coast NSW
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re Rust removal
Gday, Beer is good and All
Read with interest all the various methods of rust removal, the bead blasting sounds great. I will have to by that compressor one day !
A simple elbow grease method I have used for a few years now, is to use a handful of stainless steel pot scourers (4 or 6). It works great for tools and small steel objects ( I have used it on my cast iron saw bench ) This method works best with water. I've been known to clean a tool or two in the sink after I've done the dishes! A dash of Cold Power seems makes the task easier for some reason. I keep a stainless steel wire brush under the sink to get into the hard to reach corners.
This method does require some elbow grease, but exerise is supose to be good for us oldies.
The main plus in my mind is that the stainless scourers DON'T abrade the surface, it removes most if not all of the rust and leave a nice pattiner, as an old tool "loved"should have.
I have have to admit I detest those "restored" tools you see at the markets that have been attacked with a angle grinder or a belt sander.
Anyway give your saw bench a go with the SS scourers, replace the sweat you loose with a couple of beers and I think you'll be happy with the result.
By the by I use LANOX to keep the rust away, the amount of lanolin in it seems to be just right. everthing else I've tried is too tacky etc.
Regards Graeme.
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17th October 2008, 12:52 AM #38
Kody,
I hope you wear a respirator because if you are using any form of sand as in beach sand or river sand or any other earth sand you will end up with lungs ruined by silicosis from the dust.
Silica in sand is as bad as asbestos for wrecking you lungs.
Sand is no longer allowed to be used in industrial jobs because of this disease .
Garnet grit is the usual media used now , (it still requires a respirator but is nowhere as deadly as sand) Garnet grit is being slowly replaced by soda blasting which is a lot safer .
I have a small set up ,I use garnet grit which I get from a guy who does grit blasting professionally. I wear a dust respirator and eye protection when using it .
He is soon to set up for soda ( baking soda) blasting and getting rid of the garnet.
The soda is a once use only and is alot cheaper.
The soda works by the granules exploding on contact with the surface and breaking the rust off . If you have ever seen the effects of cavitation by air bubbles on boat props well it's the same type of action.
As far as scraping the bulk of the rust off the saw table ,I would use the plastic scraper made by Stanley that takes the Stanley utility knife blades ,they are cheap as chips and work extremely well. This is what I use to scrape back saw blades that I restore ,if you hold the scraper at a shallow angle you wont damage the table.
You will be surprized how little rubbing back with wet and dry you will need to do afterwards.
Kev."Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
Groucho Marx
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6th May 2009, 05:06 PM #39GOLD MEMBER
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Success
Thanks to these postings above, I hit my new sawbench table with WD40 and a Black & Gold Heavy Duty Super Scrub, a soft stainless steel pad. Had no impact at all.
So then I hit it with the WD40 and the Scotchbrite Heavy Duty scouring pads. Well, that certainly did the trick, but it was a bit hard on the old arthritic hands and shoulders. But the elbows were OK
Anyway, I have an orbital sander with a rubber base, so I put a layer of WD40 on the table, then a scouring pad, and the orbital sander on top of that. WOW!! It did a far better job than I could ever do by hand. Just had to keep it horizontal. Eventually the pad came away from the base, but that was when it was getting pretty worn, I think, so just replaced it.
I will now use the original fine Super Scrub pad for a fine finish before applying some Feast Watson MasterTouch carnauba wax tomorrow. I got this from Bunnings 6 months ago.
Incidentally, I could not find the old Johnson's floor wax anywhere in the big supermarkets in Towsnville. I am wondering if they still make it.
Anyway, is this wax good for this table, or is there a better option?
Looking for comments and praise
regards,
JillLast edited by Dengue; 6th May 2009 at 06:32 PM. Reason: typo
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6th May 2009, 05:13 PM #40
This is the wax I use on all my machines, it works a treat, makes them smell nice too
I think you'll find quite a few of us here use the same thing.
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6th May 2009, 06:21 PM #41
I have just started using camellia tea oil, after cleaning the surface rust from my jointer...good stuff and you can cook with it too.
Available in most supermarkets in the cooking oil section.
Glenn
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6th May 2009, 08:49 PM #42Member
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Phosphoric acid on wood...
Phosphoric acid on rust will make any iron into iron sulphide.!!?!?
and convert rust into FeSo4 wont it...
it wont remove the rust, juts convert it.
also Acid on wood, even mild with accelerate a from of Dry Rot, from my experience...
also WD40 contains a very small amount of "lacquer" (and I know that is impossible to remove from my wooden work bench)
Sanding is the only way... and see the wood work forums fro wood treatments..
Regards, Andy
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6th May 2009, 09:00 PM #43.
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That should be Iron Phosphate.
and convert rust into FeSo4 wont it...
it wont remove the rust, juts convert it.
also Acid on wood, even mild with accelerate a from of Dry Rot, from my experience...
[/QUOTE]also WD40 contains a very small amount of "lacquer" (and I know that is impossible to remove from my wooden work bench)[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]Sanding is the only way... and see the wood work forums fro wood treatments..
Regards, Andy[/QUOTE]
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7th May 2009, 03:08 AM #44
Sawbench follow up
Just before Christmas I tackled the rusty saw bench. I just cleaned the pedestal it sits on with turps and painted in satin black and scrubbed the top with green or stainless steel scourers and kero. Then I went over the top with 400 wet and dry. I was too chicken to try power tools .
But my method worked pretty well as being cast iron the rust was only on the surface. I used a product called Evapo-Rust on the machined bits which worked very well and then polished them with steel wool. Any bare steel was painted satin black then reassembled. Switched it on and .... ran like a dream.
I can recommend 'Silver Glide' rubbed into the bench top and any unpainted surfaces. There is no rust and apparently it doesn't get into any wood being cut and repel varnish or stain. Silver Glide is a bit expensive - about $40 for a tin - but you use very little so this one will last a long time.
I plan to put some pics up in the hope that someone might be able to put a date on the old warhorse. (No, not me silly! The sawbench!!)
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8th May 2009, 04:54 PM #45Senior Member
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I am with Drummond on the use of a wire brush and rust converter. However after the converter has done its work wash it off with boiling water and dry with a hair dryer then sand the whole surface , dust and lubricate the surface. Just wipe all the oil off before use. Or you could even paint the surface straight away with an epoxy paint for a long term rust free surface if the machine only gets occasional use.
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