Thread: Removing rust from sawbench

WD-40 + Scouring pad/steel wool/or some rather fine abrasive + LOTS of elbow grease

Once cleaned, coat with furniture or floor wax or beeswax even (this is what i use). They say not to use silicon based waxes. Have heard also not to use beeswax before but I've never had a problem with it affecting finishes or anything. A good buffing of the wax every now and then will keep her shiny and rust free.

I find that fine dust sitting on surfaces for too long seems to accelerate the surface rust.

If it just surface rust, 240 wet & dry with kero or diesel, simple cheap & easy

Random orbital sander will move the rough stuff, elbow grease from there.

I go with what the others are saying.

Originally Posted by Dean

I find that fine dust sitting on surfaces for too long seems to accelerate the surface rust.

That's because dust acts as a condensation nucleus for water vapor and water dissolves CO2 which makes a weak acid and accelerates corrosion.

I would suggest that the medium you use to remove the rust should reflect the future use of the bench. And its size.
No oils if your going to put finished timber or weld on it.
A course grit sand paper and belt sander or a flap disc to start. Then look if its clean enough. If not a sander and Inox , cleaned with metho.
Without any medium a few flap discs will give you a good finish.
Like these:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FLAP-DISC_W0Q...QQcmdZViewItem

Been down this track myself be warned ...it takes longer than it looks!

I wouldn't be using the flap disc that Riley is talking about especially if you don't know what you're doing, they have the potential to remove a lot of the steel or casting if you're not careful and could end up with a few dishes in the surface.

My two cents worth.

Method 1
A wire cup brush in an angle grinder (watch the corners) followed by Deoxidene or similar (phosphoric acid) applied with steel wool. Remove the iron phosphate haze with lacquer thinner or WD 40.

Method 2
Make up a large bath and use the electrolytic stripping method - weak washing soda solution and battery charger-(google electrolytic rust removal).

Finish with Deoxidene as per method 1.

Cheers

Tony

Sorry guys no way in the world I'd be using a power tool for this job. Too easy to put deep scratches and hollows in the table and you'll never get it flat again.

WD40 and steel wool or wet & dry to remove the rust, a wipe down with metho and then some paste wax wiped on and buffed off after a few minutes.

Originally Posted by silentC

Sorry guys no way in the world I'd be using a power tool for this job. Too easy to put deep scratches and hollows in the table and you'll never get it flat again.

WD40 and steel wool or wet & dry to remove the rust, a wipe down with metho and then some paste wax wiped on and buffed off after a few minutes.

wot he said

I just did mine. I used sandpaper (I used 80 grit wet and dry). It took me a while, about half a day from memory. Mine wasn't too bad. The rust is much softer than the steel and so it comes off fairly well without scratching the steel too much. Do it manually so that you don't lose the flatness. With the rust gone I can still see the original milling marks on mine.

Peter

Originally Posted by silentC

Sorry guys no way in the world I'd be using a power tool for this job. Too easy to put deep scratches and hollows in the table and you'll never get it flat again.

WD40 and steel wool or wet & dry to remove the rust, a wipe down with metho and then some paste wax wiped on and buffed off after a few minutes.

Oh bull dust!
With a flap disc or a belt sander you will not hurt it .

Proof:

As a matter of fact I have another bench I weld on regularly and I clean spatter off it with a flap disc.

Funny, that doesn't look like a saw bench.

A table you weld on is one thing. If I saw you anywhere near my table saw with a fricken flap sander I'd turn it on you.

Originally Posted by silentC

Funny, that doesn't look like a saw bench.

I have noticed that also funnily enough. (Sarcasm being the lowest form of wit ...remember?)

Originally Posted by silentC

A table you weld on is one thing. If I saw you anywhere near my table saw with a fricken flap sander I'd turn it on you.

Sigh,
Steel is still steel,
Each to their own .It is the Internet after all and you will get a lot of differing opinions.

I had some good results with CLR and steel wool on my jointer.Then finished with a wax.

Don't think I'd put any power tools near any of my tables/beds either.