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  1. #1
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    Default Repair/Regrind drill spindle taper

    Hey guys,
    My old Waldown drill press has some bad runout, and after doing a fair bit of testing I've found that it's due to a ding on the JT6 shank that forms the "nose" of the spindle (it's not a separate arbor, but the end of the spindle itself). I used a dial indicator against the shank up and down it's length, and it's spinning truly, but when I measured right against the very bottom, there's a little "mushroomed" ding on one side.

    Can anyone recommend where I could go to get this fixed in Melbourne (in the western suburbs if possible)? I presume there would be people/machines who could regrind the taper?

    Cheers
    Will

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Have you considered using a stone or file to remove the dag.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Have you considered using a stone or file to remove the dag.
    That is what I would do.

    Dean

  5. #4
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    Default

    Okay that sounds good - forgive my ignorance, but how can I do that in a reasonably controlled fashion that doesnt mash it up even more? Would holding a stone against it with the motor running work? As it's on the very end of the spindle, is there any harm in grinding the corner off entirely as a bevel/chamfer?

  6. #5
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    DONT do it with the spindle turning, DONT grind it either, If you have an oil stone use that or a fine file.

  7. #6
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    Cool. So I just want to be clear - the lip is around maybe 1/8th of the circumference at the end of the taper. I can predict confidently that I won't be able to just file it back to perfect dimensions, so is there any harm in filing a little TOO much, as diagrammed to exaggerated extent below? I would think logically, there's no problem and it won't affect the function of the taper as it's such a small amount of surface area that may no longer be in contact?


  8. #7
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    Hi Will,

    Is that the spline I sent for you to replace the bent shaft? If so, just stone off the high spot and it should be fine.

    Ray

  9. #8
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    Hey RayG, yeah that's the one - it's certainly dead straight, so I'm inching my way towards getting this Waldown going! Do you have any insights as to my above question - is filing too much off a concern?

    When using a stone, are we talking free-hand, or would I want to try and setup some kind of angled jig?

  10. #9
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    Hi Will,

    No just freehand, stone or file it like pipeclay suggested.. The chuck will seat properly if you just get rid of the high spot.

    Ray

  11. #10
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    It will not effect anything if that area is bellow the rest of the taper as per your sketch.

  12. #11
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    Do as has been suggested, but don't overdo it. Mark the high spot with a marker, fit it gently into the chuck and rotate. Keep removing metal until the marker is not wiped off in the chuck taper. Mark the whole taper and try it in the chuck. This should show the actual contact. Confirmation of a proper fit.

    Dean

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