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Thread: Repairing Cast iron
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5th April 2010, 10:58 AM #1Member
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Repairing Cast iron
Good morning all and trust you are all having a bit of a break (In the shed of course).
My question this morning is related to repairing cast iron. I have just gotten my Richmond Type 01 horizontal mill up and running Best step was the fitting of a new cutter which has changed it from an oversize file to actually chewing the chips off.
One end of the table has a bolt on cast "assembly" that catchs the coollant/metal and feeds its back to the tank. It has been traumatised at some stage and I'd like to fix the crack and fill the gouges.
The table also has a section of the T slot broken out but I assume that is an area that might not be good to get too hot.
I guess there are two questions:
1/ How do you tell what is cast and what is 'steel'. (I'm guessing this is cast by the mould)
(And does anyone have a chart of the different 'types' of steel???)
2/ How do you repair cracks / fill gouges in cast iron. I have heard a lot of remedies such as arc with std, / 'cast' / stainless rods, or MIG / TIG, bronzing etc.
I also remember our fleet mechanic repairing exhaust manifolds in a rather complex process of preheat weld and slow cool, but don't remember the detail.
So appreciate any help in this area given the number of new technologies around now.
Now back to the shed...
Cheers all
Ian
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5th April 2010, 12:00 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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If its cast it will have a rough structure, and a broken section will look almost aerated in its composition, to weld is tricky, I use a tig and a hammer to stress relieve,
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5th April 2010, 02:23 PM #3Pink 10EE owner
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Brazing is probably the best method... To fix gouges etc, use devcon...
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5th April 2010, 05:48 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Ian
Can you can post a couple of pics of the problem areas? you will get a lot more specific advice on how to correct them.
regards
bollie7
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5th April 2010, 06:09 PM #5Dave J Guest
When cleaning up me new Chinese H/F thicknesser, I found what looks to be solder in one corner of the table to fill a void.
Then after cleaning up some of my new/old shaper, I found a spot on the bottom of the knee way with the same. I believe the shaper was made back around 1920-40.
So it looks like the manufacturers have used this for years to fill small voids, might work in your case to fill the gouges.
As for the welding, there are some very talented welding people on here that can instruct you on the best fix, might also be worth a post in the welding section.
Dave
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5th April 2010, 09:46 PM #6
Q1
In a place where it will do minimal harm touch it with the angle grinder.
If it is steel sparks are yellow orange with long sprigs. If cast iron sparks are red with short sprigs.
Q2 Cast iron welds and cools VERY differntly to steel.Be prepared to heat the whole of the unit so cooling is even.
The cracks I won't comment on until more info is posted on the length depth and location of them.
With due respect to our brethen here, its not a thing to risk to amatuer advice.I spent half of my apprenticeship welding CI at the premier shop (for welding CI)so I have had the experience to comment.
Do you know which one of the the several types it may be ? Brazing with tobin bronze- at least that what we used, is a better fix for cosmetic stuff like gouges.
As far as welding is concerned it is done as a procedure or not at all.If you get the heat input imbalanced you are very likely to suffer a crack where section go from thick to thin.It doesn't stretch or distort like steel if it cools unevenly -it cracks.
If you have to ask bout repairs its best left to some one who can do it.
Can you post pictures please?
Grahame
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6th April 2010, 11:03 PM #7Member
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Cast Iron repair
Thanks all,
As I suspected - not quite that straightforward. However some great info to date and I will take some pic's tommorow and post up so we can be a bit more specific.
Thanks
Ian
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