rigidity problems with bridgeport clone

**.RC.** · 15th August 2013, 07:55 PM

When you say "the spindle half out"

Does that mean the quill or the spindle itself...

On all the clones I have pulled apart, which is two, the spindle will come out once the bearing retaining cap is taken off..

The bearing retaining cap is held in place by a set screw on the bottom of the chromed portion of the quill.... Sometimes they are sneaky and put two set screws in there, one on top of the other....

The nose cap can be left hand thread.... On both of mine they are left handed thread.. Then the spindle should come out from the bottom... With the help of a soft faced hammer on the top of the spline...

There will be two P4 duplex angular contact bearings down the bottom, held about say 100mm apart with two spacers, an inner and outer...

Then half way up is another bearing and different quills have different designs here..... Some have two bearings, some have one bearing and a spacer.. Some have one bearing and a circlip, others have adjusting nuts....

But once the nose cap is undone, there is nothing but friction holding it in...Well that is as far as I know...

**the fabricator** · 16th August 2013, 02:59 PM

It's ok guys I have the spindle out. It wasn't coming out due to a burr on the splines. Unfortunatly needs new bearings. I have bought the upper bearing from the bearing shop ($20) but the two lower bearings ( angular contact ball ) they want $250 each for, I knew they would be expensive but that blows me out of the water. Anyone got an idea of where to get them a bit cheaper?

**.RC.** · 16th August 2013, 03:21 PM

Originally Posted by the fabricator

It's ok guys I have the spindle out. It wasn't coming out due to a burr on the splines. Unfortunatly needs new bearings. I have bought the upper bearing from the bearing shop ($20) but the two lower bearings ( angular contact ball ) they want $250 each for, I knew they would be expensive but that blows me out of the water. Anyone got an idea of where to get them a bit cheaper?

What number (7xxx) or dimensions are they?

Post them and we should be able to give you some options..

**the fabricator** · 16th August 2013, 03:45 PM

Says on the race :

FAFNIR
207WI
C1

**.RC.** · 16th August 2013, 03:58 PM

Ok Thanks,

A comparable precision Fafnir would be 2mm207widul

It looks like the bearings you have are not precision class, otherwise they should being fafnir's start with 2mm

The c1 on your bearing is the internal clearance c1 means less clearance then c2, and c2 means less clearance then normal which is c3...

example... ships worldwide as well

TIMKEN 2MM207WIDUL Superprecision Bearings 35mmx72mmx17mm | eBay

But yea you want a 7207 bearing, duplex meaning a matched pair, universal ground light preload which means they can be put back to back, front to front or in tandem and you get light preload applied automatically, in an ABEC7 or p4 accuracy... ABEC x is the US standard for bearing accuracy, Px the ISO standard and they work opposites, in ABEC the higher the number the greater the precision, in P the lower the number the greater the precision...

Plenty more examples here 2mm207 | eBay

NSK 7207CTYDULPA7 Super Precision Bearings FAFNIR 2MM207WI Dul | eBay

Cheapest place to get them is off ebay.... What you were quoted by the bearing shop is pretty reasonable pricing if they were supplying you a matched pair of p4 bearings... They are not cheap new retail...

Phil (machtool) is pretty clued up on bearings, he may have more to add here...

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