Thread: Riveting problem

only thing i can think of is to super glue them head first to a block of waste wood maybe in a pre made dimple in the wood , and see if the bond is good enough to allow for the threading to be done with the die , then when finished a splash of acetone and the glue will let go .
johno

Try a lantern chuck

Phil

Hi Mike
Why not make a mandrell to fit the rivet head?

Roger

If the rivets are aluminium and the nuts are not they are likely to corrode and fall apart. The rivet installed as designed is a much stronger installation.

If you feel you must have a threaded fastener then take a look at the Hi-Lok fasteners used on aircraft. You should be able to locate them in Australia.

Hi-Shear Aerospace Fastener Divsion

Pete

You could make the rivets. Turn, thread, part, repeat. But there has to be an easier way. I'd look into QC's suggestion.

if they are round head rivets how are you going to tighten them up?

Morrisman,

This mob might have something which you could use.

Rageem Fasteners

No affiliation, yada, yada, yada.

HTH
Cheers,
RossA

thanks for the ideas and suggestions . I think I will make a little device to squeeze down onto the shaft ,just beneath the head of the rivet , the clamping area will be about 1/16" wide . I will have to make it in the lathe , drill a hole in a 3/4" square block of mild steel , slightly larger then the head diameter of the rivet , leaving about 1/16" of metal at the end , then use a end mill to make the end of the hole flat . Then cut a thin slit into the hole . The rivet shaft will protrude out the end . I will clamp the holding device in the vice , the squeezing of the halves should clamp down on the shaft ..I hope I will make the nuts a relatively loose tolerance so I can do them up by hand ... then apply an adhesive ( loctite ? ) to secure the whole thing. I'm not planning on mounting the spare wheel on the bonnet ..as this setup stresses the aluminium grill panel and cracks it .. you will see many bodged weld jobs on old Land Rover grills . BTW the metal is an alloy called BIRMABRITE . It has some other elements in it . If anyone is intending on spot welding 18 gauge 1.2MM aluminium sheets together. There is a easy way to to it using an ordinary 10 to 20 KVA Steel spot welder . Between the electrode tips , and the aluminium, you use a thin piece of galv. or stainless or whatever you have . The sandwich of Aluminium underneath and the steel above , works a treat . I have seen and visited the chap who makes repro Land rover bodies using this method.. its amazing . The result is top notch MIKE

I don't think that threading the rivet shank will work as the aluminium rivets come in varying hardness, but they are still quite soft to allow deformation when squashing the rivet tails. You will also have mayor issues with dissimilar metal corrosion which will corrode the rivet in no time flat. I doubt that what you are proposing will actually have enough strength to hold the material together, unless the car is just going to just be a static display. With the appropriate equipment and experiance you can knock down solid rivets without deforming the surrounding material.

Some alternative fasteners would be Hi-loks, as well as using the appropriate collar you can also use a normal nut to do it up. They have an alan head recess in the end of the shank to hold the bolt while doing up the nut.
Hi-Shear / Hi-Lok Standards

Huck bolts. These will also work well but you will need a special tool to tension the bolt and swage the collar, you can not put a nut on these as the bolt is not threaded, but ribbed.
Huck Bolts, Fasteners and Rivets

I have had a look at a few Land Rovers and they appear to use very similar fasteners to aircraft, after all they are reliable proven fastening methods, as far as where i come from, i work on aircraft for a living and have used all of these fastners and more, in high tolerance, precision enviroment.